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Depends what model wether it has steel or alloy wheels usually.

Lol, reading fail....same applies.

Cheers, I'm trying to decide wether to use my helper springs or not. Will wait for some testing to decide.

Ahrite okay, I can remember one of the race lads with AST's on here running sleeves to take up the slack, maybe your old AST's no?

Flol Hahahaha , it ain't no handling improvement pal, it stops engine movement and allows better feeling gear changes and smoother going on and off accelerator. If you fit a dog bone and your daily commute time comes down by five minutes then its definitely a "placebo"

Wrong picture then, I seen a set the other day in a recent thread. Powerflex also made the old style sleeve thicker at one point, Cupman or Kenny had problems iirc.

Re: Powerflex bushes from K-Tec no choices for difference between cup and non cup siz There's loads of company's selling different dia bushes, what your saying there is all ARB's are the same from ph1 172 right threw to Trophy?

Sounds like a sticky tappet, not the end of the world. Live with it or replace if it really pisses you off!

Sunday drivesque from Tony there. I see you have various spring lengths there, are you guys running a single coil know or still a helper and main on front and sleeve, helper and main on rear?

Phone Adam @ Renault Autoworld he will be cheaper. I got a full gates timing belt kit this week for £70, cam pulley locking tool and spare gear £70, cam horseshoe/crank pin were £40 from eBay in a kit, £15 for an aux belt on Cup. That's £195 fitted and then you can sell on tools if you want...

Re: Powerflex bushes from K-Tec no choices for difference between cup and non cup siz It's the outer ARB bushes that change, I'm sure they will ask what car you have prior to sending, they won't see you wrong.

Lol Yup, I'll be in a Cup.

So does photobucket affect the quality on a laptop? I noticed it resized them while uploading in the app.

Cheers Knuckles, 10 times easier than on a PC, shame about the poor iPhone camera.

Sorry about the essay content to start with, it will become more brief. I thought I would start a small progress thread to keep track of ongoings of my new run around. I am building another Cup just now to go racing with. After driving my race build car I was well impressed with the Clio's and...

Just a photo bucket app, can you then take pics from your camera roll??

Anyone?

So how do you actually do this, I have tapatalk but can't even see how to post a reply, never mind a picture?!?

I was going to say, does a yozza not resemble a stainless cherry bomb in looks and sound?

Looking at the pics mate I bet all he can carry in that thing is a 6 pack of quavers and 2 litre bottle of coke before it scrapes, anything over 1 turn left or right it must scrub like a hoor, gona need to roll the rear arches to pull off anything like that.

There is three styles that I have seen now, a set that I have with a parallel sleeve (purple) that definitely needs placed correctly and welded, the set pictured above that have a flanged section on them that locates them better, again I would recomend welding as its just paper thin metal and...

Some good family watching that.

Looking good, thanks again for the interior I haven't had a chance to clean/fit it yet, few pics coming next week. Top lads too for having had bigger offers on the interior and refused them having said you would sell to me initially. There are some honest people left around.

I'm at a loss really without having seen the car tbh mate. If your shure suspension is a1 and no exhaust contact I can't think of anything that would cause a knocking/vibrating at low speeds/revs other than contaminated clutch causing judder.

You can take the boot clips off, slide the joint apart, take off a circlip and remove the three finger yoke, slide off the boot and fit new(if there available) and rebuild. No need for stretchy boots afaic.

It's physically possible to replace all the boots or else how we're they built? if you can get a new boot which I don't now if there available then buy it as its definitely possible to change.

It's going into limp mode because either your pedal or throttle body are going out of range by the sounds of it.

Fair enough, by the way you had said that was the first time you had taken the drip tray off in recent times. You say its a slow vibration and a dull knocking? I know its hard to describe sometimes but what of the two is it? Well if its not the exhaust hitting the frame etc, is it a drivetrain...

You want more than 1.5deg (average clio) when you shift to r-series tyres and yet more again when you go slicks so there is a point in having them tbh. FWD touring cars run more camber on the rear than the front half the time, there knocking on the door for 6-7deg so if your extracting...

In layman's terms it is done so that all four corners have a fair share of all weight, the result of one corner working harder than the other is bad handling...simples