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It's a metalic noise right?? IMO its definitely your manifold /exhaust touching something from your description, nothing else comes close to bulkhead or Floor to give this noise. You do realise the engine moves under load and may appear to clear everything sat on your drive, move off and it all...

Not so bad then, 106's are capable little things with their little 1.6 engines.

Booked on and holidays applied for :p

You have to be carefull wether its FWD or RWD for front and back settings. FWD saloon cars quite often have toe out on the rear, look up some Tom chiton footage from the BTCC(thruxton in particular) he was famous for loving the car set up to spin round the front, some high, high speed tail outs...

But raracecar!!! it's done all the time.

Tried to centralise it but ain't working, just specify you want it that way when you do step 2. There's a comments box for that.

There show plates mate so a good chance it will be off centre, text at the bottom of the regy plates is illegal now anyway iirc. Try putting some spaces before your lettering to move it over.

Who me Bruv? Can't be done with plates with borders etc on which is whats on there just now, it's even a guffy border too, can't be having that ;) Two birds with one stone.

Me personally I would run it until it got worse. If there's no signs of play and your finding it hard to locate then run it longer until signs of wear are there or the noise cant be mistaken for a certain corner. It could become unsafe for you as I don't know your mechanical knowledge where as I...

That's what you have to figure out, camber and tow are a trade of for straight line stability & speed against higher cornering speeds. This is why suspension is such a black art, you steal performance from one area to give gains in another. I take it you never adjusted tracking after fitting...

I would want more camber on the front and rear for a start with some toe out maybe on the rear depending if you prefer it loose or tight. I don't think you would want as an aggressive setup as a track car but close. It all depends what kind of Tarmac you are likely to come across, I can't...

You can do it the way you want, your putting trust in the bushes being perfect dimensions which I wouldn't put past powerflex to be wrong with their track record. Take a few measurements of the subframe and the arms then you will know for sure, you can then have them powder coated with no worries

Sorted....,520x90mm and 520x112mm ordered. Thanks again.

That was my thoughts, I wanted slightly taller than the 84mm height. I will just input dimensions in the comments box and hope they come alright. Thanks for the help.

Okay went and tried again, you need to input a space in the drop box yourself to get the right spacing-that's sorted. Jared, you say the size is in other, do you just leave the multi choice box blank and input yourself whatever size you require in the 'other' box?

Bucket seat, harness and steering wheel, although not performance mods they will make 'YOU' feel 100x better and in turn push the car more. Sticky tyres too, sounds like you have done a few track days and are past the grip level that a road tyre gives so why would you go out and wreck a set of...

Just tried to order some 3/4 plates on www.fancyplates.com using revels guide on here, everything is fine except there is no option for 520x84mm. You can only have standard size or 380x84mm, what am I doing wrong? Also the picture in the plate calculator shows no spacing between the first 4...

Cheers, ill give it a try. I have some but have only ever used it prior to snow foaming which probably isn't its correct use, it doesn't change colour like iron 'X' though so hard to tell its working. I'm gona do a full detail soon so I will let it soak in after using tardis and claybar.

When you say joints what do you mean? There are lots of suspension joints. Remove battery, slacken2 bolts and 1 nut on g/box mount, slacken lower gearbox mount, slacken upper engine mount nut, slacken dog bone mount, give it all a little shake and let it settle, make sure the manifolds not near...

Gona sound stupid here but what's this fairy power stuff? Surely not just fairly liquid and water??

Manifold touching subframe or body. Check all engine mounts, exhaust mounts and reset engine position if required. Purely because you have had things replaced in the last year doesn't mean they were fitted right so don't overlook them while checking things.

Fully fit the bushes then offer it up to your subframe. Make sure the sleeves are as close to the subframe as possible as thats what supports the bushes and stops the wishbone moving front to rear. Remove then weld. I welded mine 20mm left 10mm then another 20mm all the way round to try cut...

Trim your fancy control panel down, get some brackets made and mount it like the cup racers ran, it would be a shame to ruin such a tarty piece of gear. Whats your thinking about running the oil cooler behind the rad other than its easier to pipe and less likely to get nicked with a stone etc??

You will need a 1/4 drive torx socket for the gearbox side, I can't remember which size tbh, someone will confirm.

Is it track setup or for road? How much does that make your car lowered by? what suspension? what wheels and tyres? What car? Level bottom arms isnt any use really, bump and roll centres will be well off. From the bottom arms being level the suspension is only ever going to go into + camber...

20mm spacers for front and back so 20mm wider on all four corners, 40mm on each axle. That should be fine with my et48.5 wheels wit 195/45/16 tyres on my 172 cup.

I just bought 2 sets of those 20mm hub centric type for £68 posted, will let you know there quality when the arrive.

As above, what is the wheel bolt length that 1^2's come with standard?

I just used turini's as an example to begin with, then I could work it out as 172 full fat wheels on a cup isn't very common and I thought you would have sold more to people with cups and turini's. whats your price for 20mm, 16mm spacers and bolts to suit? Could you price separately for bolts...