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Yep there least 3 more out there. Its a good idea realy.

I'd always chnage springs and dampers. In which case got for coilovers there not many decinet value damper and springs setups for sale for the car.

Yep same bodyshells.

New gear stick gater the only real option. Not to much from Renault £15 or so. I'd recon your dog bone mounts on the way out though hence why the engine shakes arounf when you let off the throtle new mounts arn't much dead easy to fit.

There always stuck to some degree. You might as well replace it as if you do loosen it you'll probably nd up breaking it. Easy thing is to cover in in WD40 etc to get through the rust and get to work with some spanners. Then get more and more abusive with it then cover in WD40 leave overnight...

Thats one Matt Black off here has at work. Definatly a write of they are to expelsive to fix.

He used to work for Renault as a trained tec but went independant. So he's got all ther stuff and knows what he's doing just much cheaper.

You cannot see the thread as its been moved for members only area ie pay your £5 and you can see it.

Check the earthing lines on your gearbox etc. Then again if its under warently let Renault fix it. Alternator might be going or have a bad connection.

You need a new stearing wheel. Expensive from Renault £3350 or so I think

They sit in the scuttle panle often in some water so do go. 172 ones are different than none ar con models. £85 new breakers /scrap yards for cheap ones. Radio check the arial lead at the back of the unit there not superb though sometimes. As for the traction control light it comes...

Just take the rail off, the rail holds the injectors in place. Only need to uplug the fuel line undo the bolt and the whole rail and injectors come off as one.

Dealers charge for 5.1 hours labout its there l;abour costs of £65+ per hour which mkaes it expensive but see what Merc etc charage Renault often arn't that bad. I'd try Rentech (portsmouth) or Carlton garage (err somwhere more west of there) they have the right tools to do the job (very...

Why not get ready for it and get a stronger Megan/Laguna/Velsatis 2.0 F4RT block with the bigger mating plate so you can use the stronger boxes the turbos use?

Common problem suprised you didn't come up with an answer. New coolent temperature gauage is needed. Also check the wiring might be faulty. New sesnors are only cheap. The sensor faces towards the engine on the passenger side of the car on the engine block. Its connectied to the thermostat I...

Yep Megan 2.0 bottom end mounts are the same.# Engine type you want are F7R The new Megans 2.0 won't fit the 1.8 16v head (F4R code engines) as there different.

ESSENTIAL SPECIAL TOOLS Mot. 799-01 Tool for immobilising pinions for toothed timing belt Mot. 1054 Top Dead Centre pin Mot. 1496 Setting the camshafts (this will be the cam bar) Other palces sell simialr tools to this its just basically a metal bar with a nut to hold it in place. Mot. 1509...

Blow torch the hub to heat it up so it expads give you some more space or drill the old sensor out

Wy not get the head ported at the same time might as well.

Yep its the syncroes don't like it hence why blipping the throttle or double de clucthcing helps.

When does it make the sounds does it differ with revs etc? Could be the TDC sensor You'd need to get the car to Renault realy the dci engine is a pain its completly computer controlled injectors etc shouldn't be messed with.

Yep I'm sure you could. Why are you?

Just drive up a curb if you need some space just a few holes need drilling under the bumper them a few self threading nuts to hold it on.

Aux belt has to come off to do cambelt so they'll have to (or should) chnage this as well. Definatly check they have the tools to do the job. No need in fuel filter sits good for 150k officialy and few are ever changed. (one reason is the later 172 have internal tank ones which are a bugger to...

35psi seem very low are you usure its that? The psi rated on the tyres not the alloys. I'd try 32 front 30 rear but everyone has difference preferences.

Its only because they have to make there money. Few dealers have anywhere to speay etc they subcontract out the work.

Under the bonney on the drivers side by the light the plate should b there Williams are C57M code

I'd buy on condition the Williams some are quite bad but ideal track cars the phase 1 172 can bepicked up cheap but I'd prefere a WIlliams personally. 172 engine will fit in a Mk1 shell but due to the intake manifold design you need to either have throttle bodies, a huge bonnet bulge or have...

I'd bet either the wiring on the sensor or the ABS ring is damaged (in your case damaged/loose ABS ring most likly). Check the ABS ring is the same distacne from the teeth to the sensor in the hub. From memory its 0.5 to 1.3mm the distance should be.

Can do it yourself bit annoying need a tube to get the new fluid in etc not to difficult though. I'd leave it get the garage to do it if you've no tools etc.