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Tweeks sell race spec ones for race cars, they are easer to turn, so have less drain on the engine. Freeer floating bearings, teh bearings turn easier creating less drag, suprised no one has done it on 1.2s etc frees up about 5bhp

Road Wheels are OZ Titans, they no longer make them though. www.lunner.co.uk

Upgraded to what? Higher output, or freer floating bearings or both. £100-£200

Every time i've changed a battery tehre is a spark, always happens, even if the car is only drawing a small current, which it always is

Black valver Ph2 wheels

Should usea new gasket, and the headbolts are designed to stretch when you torque them up, they MUST be replaced. I woudl make him replace gaskets etc and i woudln't have paid for it, ABSOLOUTLY unnecessary, report the c**t to trading standards for ripping you off

Can't understand why its making the belt squeel, the resistance to the alternator turning doesn't have anything to do wiht the draw on the system. Odd that its stopping squeeling when you turn the system off, but i woudl suggest its more to do with it being damp and cold

Remove the ABS fuse....sorted

Poor attempt ;)

Electronic toys are good if you can't drive properly, if you konw how to drive, and handle a car then you should be fine without it

Dodgy sunglasses

f**k me, thats not dirty, thats clean Number plate, rear lights and rear window was cleaned the day before that pic was taken...and then i went and drove it

I would guess if he wasn't he would have rounded off the unions by now. Oh appologies for my typing in my earlier post

Whats with the 182 stickers?

*Deleted Post*

Recieved money via paypal off you for a de0cat, but dont' know what forum you are off, forum nickname, or what car you want the de-cat for, can you contacts me ASAP please

Mine have almost no intial bite now, nice and progressive, only thing is you have to stamp ont eh brakes to stop from hgih speeds, gonna try some grooved discs next time for a little more intiial 'bite'

Yup, see what i mean. If you have ABS its slightly easier as the piupes go to the ABS unit on the n/s of the engine bay where you have room to manover, if not its an arsehole of a job, as the brake lines go to the master cylinder, under the brake fluid resovior, and tehre is prolly no room...

Sorry, without squashing it. There is a brake line flairing tool, but all the ones i've seen are designed to sit in a vice. TBH i think teh easiest, and best option is to remove the whole brake line and make a new one

Use a junior hacksaw to cut the line without cutting it

Complete waste of time and money

I've got teh fast road pads on mine, lasted 2 full track days and getting on for 20k of road miles, never had any fade outa them yet

ther was a 1.1 engine 1.2 and 1.4 were 8v energy engine, iirc they look the same, but some were spi and some were mpi You have the 1.8 rt which is a 1.8 8v spi, this looks different, and is s**t slow compared to the 1.8 8v mpi found in the rsi, rsi engine is f3p You then ahve the valver...

15's rubber is cheaper, you'll go faster and handle better, and they don't look so ghey

Stop driving quickley in teh ice then *rolls eyes*

Drive at a suitable speed for the conditions, ie dont' drive like a tit on slippery roads, a good driver should never have the traction control/ABS kick in. Still can't unsertand why so many cups die at this time of year, but yet the Williams 1's for example survive fine......could have...

Wonder how many cups will die this winter, if there are that many left

Thought so, so seams the cup is slow, lol

To be fair though they don't list on there what was in teh wet, find it hard to bel9eve that a cup is 3 seconds faster than a vee

Just bolts in, if you ahver teh right tools, and haven't done it before allow a day to get the engine ut, esp wiht seized parts, and another day to put it back in, and then anohter day or so for any problems. If you've done it all before then a day should be all you need :) Might be worth...