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+1 "cba with that" is the wrong attitude to take

Give me a minute will shoot you a pm when i've got them uploaded.

Can do which bit you after specifically? Got seperate diagrams for the central locking/elec windows/etc.

Well theres a set number but the fault might have been present for a few more times. Just suck it and see what happens basically.

Like this: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=wN0zXJ59xsk&feature=related http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=pkH_l469azE

It'd kill the engine very fast. And it doesn't sound promising with what you've told us tbh.

Nice, theres some moneys worth there!

Not a major thing to change a rear axle just 4 bolts really and the brake lines. Then swap calipers over etc, no abs/xenon adjuster to worry about on a cup so that makes it simpler. Its just getting hold of one.

Cupped 182 is 60mm lower bolt spacing. Non Cupped 182/172/172 Cup are 54mm lower bolt spacing. Fvck knows why :S.

Yep as matt says if its the standard fit then its under the passenger side skuttle. Bit of a ballache to get to, wiper arms off then you can get the panel off to remove the whole wiper motor assembly then you can get to it.

Yes block it off it you'll have an air leak and it'll idle at silly revs.

Its probably picked up a lamdba/cat fault which will go off after it not finding one after 3 starts iirc. Its fine, if it comes back then i'll probably end up being a new lambda sensor.

Fecking awesome! :D Would only look like a normal 5GTT from behind, doubt it'd stop there for long though!

This doesn't half sound familiar. I bet thats showing a throttle pedal pot circuit fault. Has it gone into limp mode at all yet?

I thought you used the closest 1:1 ratio gear, which is 4th in an RS clio?

A 182 is a Ph3, 172 is a Ph2. Silver belts and grey light interior plastics on the 182 plus a few other things i've forgotten.

Oh and the throttle thing is normal too.

It doesn't "cut" anything I think, the ECU just doesn't work as its still locked until a proper coded key authorises it. It probably won't be energising the fuel pump and injector lock relays as well.

I'd ignore the Lambda faults as a normal obdii reader won't erase the faults logged in the ecu, you need clip for that. So i'd go with either the throttle position sensor or the coil pack. Both should be reasonably cheap to get hold of and change.

foul

I've got them on my car they do lower believe me, not a great deal but they do.

Strange on the price frontier, but oh well looks like i've got up to dateish prices then.

The revs will shoot up to 3000rpm~ if you unplug the throttle pedal, if you put your foot on the brake it (should) drop back to normal idle. If it does then its probably the pedal if its doesn't then its probably the body. I'd try that next.

Exhaust

Thats the right one, its replaced the part number I posted originally. Updated dialogys and thats the number its showing now, how much did you pay each if you don't mind me asking. Just want to see if the prices are up to date, got £45.50 here.

A 172 might be but the non rs Ph1s deffo aren't ABS driven. The very last ones might be.

Thats not too bad, 20% off parts would be cool. Pitty i'm nowhere near :(.

Don't think i've ever even looked are the SAR rating on a phone tbh. If it does lots of cool things i'll never need then that usually does me (roll on N96:D).

The mounts perish like hell anyway, if it was pretty much knackered when they put the exhaust on then its probably just finished it off. You wouldn't believe the difference between a new one and one thats been on there for a while.

I'd get the cambelt done as its way overdue on age. Mines 4 years old now and I'm doing mine tomorrow as I daredent leave it any longer, very much a case of better safe than sorry.