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most tuners do a power run before starting make sure they arent trying to tune a fcuked engine.

all the exhausts are made in 1 section from the cat to the rear box so theres no way round cutting it then the new one just clamps on

planned on getting lots done tonight, but fitting the exhaust manifold gasket it shorted on the starter,, i jumped and where my fingrer was through the gasket its bloody near took me finger off,, still debating wether to go hospital lol more progess tomoz then lol

and yeah abs and pas are gone, i would have kept them if i had a complete engine loom but i didnt fancy trying to figure out the abs wiring for myself f*cker as i have no speedo still need to sort something on that still need to wire the heater blower motor up myself as i have a cc loom need...

lol, we are the only garage in england willing to work on such old crap.

nope staying as is. not much progress couldnt get motivated tonight, ive now got all the front and rear completely wired up.. still need to figure out how the hell im going to wire the doors and plug a few bits and peices in under the seats then need a new starter new alternator,, get the...

worst way is it wont start and you'l get a bang if that happens swap em round,, but start on the assumtion that gearbox side is number one and you wont have to change them

the 172 dash loom i have has the plug for the climate control panel, which obviously dosn't match up to the poverty spec heater blower controll, what im wondering is is it all multiplexed through the uch or should i be able to pick out the blower motor wiring from the plug and mate it to my...

i'd like details of the gdi ones also wanting oil pressure/temp gauges but dont want them to look out of place

cheers mate, i have actually worked it out myself now just going through each one with a power probe, but cheers for looking

this confused the arse out of me today aswell, french tend to call the 'front' of the engine as we know it number 4, meaning starting at the front (belt end) is number 4

and yeah, i picked up the lot in one go but since then im on the second engine (first one had a problem) 2 engine looms and various other bits are mixed and matched so yeah a bit of a nightmare

ashy, the dash i have a 172 dash loom and uch etc but i have different looms from different cars so theres been alot of messing about cutting and joining wires luckily all the multiplexed stuff was complete so i was able to sus most of it out with a power probe, i have no diagrams to go on...

yes please mate, erm it will probably come under vehicle lighting the particular section of loom im trying to splice together loops round the front of the vehicle and does the side reps, headlights dip and main, sidelights, indicators, fogs, horn. it did have the abs block wiring in the same...

the 1.6 is a bit more tricky/involved than the 1.2's i'd rather do a 1.2 put it that way

thats the plan mate,, although just a runner will do first lol. cheers to b16doe aswell for collecting the polished plenham from the other side of the world lol oh and spec so far.. 182 manifold decat being made full magnex matched inlets when its running i'll get it remapped., be...

any idea of whats what on the front lighting loom? im sure i can sus it out for myself but just wondering if someone can save me a bit of time also, dont suppose anybody knows the spec of the belt i need when running a cup setup without pas? cheers

i think so yeah, try bridging terminals to see if you can get the pump to power up

what a nightmare,, made some good progress today though engines in ready for the dash wiring to be done i knew i had a problem with the 172 engine loom a section was cut off but couldn't sus what it was, now worked out it was for abs and the complete lighting on the front of the car. so thats...

so you can just do away with the center bearing that bolts on the block? im leaving to go do this in about 10 minutes and would much rather use the 1.2 stuff but just need to know if its ok to not use that center bearing, as i thought it was the center bearing that held that shaft in to the box

this is my problem,,, or can you just not use the bearing carrier that bolts to the back of the block and put the 1.2 shafts in the 172 box??

oh dear god....... got the engine out tonight car came in at 5 i had the engine out ready to go and remove a plenham for b16doe by 6. found a few niggly problems but im sure i'll get there in the end got a nice 182 manifold and cat to throw on there,, im back there at 6 tommorow morning so...

read on here that fred used 1.2 running gear on his 172 converted clio,, but i've got the engine out of mine tonight and started matching things up i've noticed the 1.2 shafts are different in that they dont have the carrier bolted to the block they just come straight from the gearbox to the hub...

sounds like gearbox,, does the noise stop if you accelerate sharply then quicly let it coast?

no the phase shifter isnt changed with belt changes you can change it if you like at extra cost but if it aint broke dont fix it if you do wish to change it you need the pulley locking tool aswell

im doing mine like that

go to a hardware place and get some 6x1.0 bolts

yeah as said you just yank the plunger of the switch out, put the switch back in the when you press the brake it self adjusts

yeah its electric, mine does it every now and then it just stops working for no reason, no lights no nothing. you have to turn off/start it up a few times and i fires back up get a speed sensor fault up on abs/electric steering ecu's but its only intermittant. so to remedy the problem once and...

well i would imagine matt black would do it for me seen as i bought the stuff from him, but getting the car there is out of the question short of that the only thing i can think of is get the ecu decoded.. would that do away with the problems of it all locking up once its been disconnected etc...