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surely that cant be how the immobiliser works, or all you would do is send a live to the input of said relay and immobilser would be bypassed..

but, do double check that you havn't fitted a single fillament bulb to a twin fillament fitting as this would also cause that problem

its just a bad earth, what it is.. the rear light clusters have one main earth feeding the whole cluster and a series of lives that power brakes, sides, indicators etc individually. what happens is if the connection on the back becomes corroded it is usually the main earth that suffers as it...

light bulbs arent polarity sensitive.. only leds. how do you know its not the bulb craig? still does not work with the old bulb back in? if thats the case it can only be a damaged connecter/broken wire or possibly a fuse

the last bit still makes no sence. he thinks they are good for 70k but just incase change it at 72k???? if you said he thinks they are good for 72k+ but always change at 72 to be safe it would make sence..

i dont beleive this many replies and nobodys clocked yet.. how can it be a 197 if its a diesel!!! unless they have purpose built a diesel engine to exactly the same power output.. its called a 197 for a reason...

things like that nobody can give you a solution you need to find the problem, ie get it to where its not starting, then see if you loose the trigger to the starter motor

need details of the car, mk1 clio i priced up earlier was something stupid like 6 hours labour

you lot have got to understand its difficult to balance in a garage aswell, you could get a car in like that running aftermarket management with a loom made by somebody else etc etc.. you could have that car and 2 cambelt jobs. you could spend days going through trying to familierise yourself...

of course there are seals! how the hell do you expect the fluid not to come straight out the first time you put your foot on the brake,, and its not so much just the fact the pistons popped out its more down to the fact if the pads came out it grinds against the caliper

he's probably not, i had a hyundai sonata as a private job a few weeks ago which the customer complained of "a slight grating noise when braking slowly" so first thing i did was jump in the car switch the ignition on to be deathened by the gangster rap he had on the stereo at full blast and set...

exactly take it to someone reputable and get it put down in writing. where abouts are you? i hate to say this but im sure this place you are talking about have been on watchdog before (could be talking out of my arse there the name just rings a bell) to be completely honest and i do hope im...

no,,, although to be 100% fair to you im not sure across the renault range, but on vauxhals etc that also use them there are quite a few variations

best way you can really check is, is get yourself a 12v bulb holder from a auto factors anything will do as long as you can connect wires to it. fit two male spade connecters to the other ends and connect it where the fuse plugs in. (this prevents you from keep blowing fuses,, more on this in a...

dont forget that having the heater blower on will lower the running temperature a fair bit wether its hot or cold outside.

does it retract a bit then stop before the end? i have taken them apart and wound the spring a bit tighter in the past but never in a clio. depends how brave you are you need to get it out and see what you are faced with

thats the kiddy, its quite offensive on this one though.. only thing leading me to think its lambda fault is it seems to be switching really slowly on the scope

the brackets off at the moment all wiring is ok. i have heard of injector problems although it does seem to run fairly sweetly cheers for your help

anything common on these causing a hesitation from low revs? checked all the loom all seems ok, has had a new map sensor on it recently came up with the following fault codes - fuel circuit pre cat lambda sensor signal put it on the gas anyliser its running lean (co-0 hc-1 lambda 1.03)...

go to a windscreen fitter they will sell you it then you can feel confident in it. i buy it from the av screens bloke a fiver a tube... but you will notice they all use electric mastic guns because the stuffs so bloody hard

thing is (if they were aftermarket pedals), as petty a thing that may seem if they let you off and vosa pull you up outside the station and take you back in for them to re test the car (happens more than you would imagine esp. in high risk garages) vosa will pull the testers pants down over any...

i like that though - really like the feel of paddle clutches.. cant stand a car with what id describe as a sloppy clutch where theres no positive feeling of it slipping and not slipping

how much am i looking at on average? i've been weighing up all the pros and cons of what to do with my 1.2 thought an engine conversion (too much hassle trying to source parts etc), thought about just selling it and getting a ph1 (prefer the ph2 shape, and mine is white so it will be quite a...

yeah i put a clutch in my 1.2 and the biting point didnt really change. even with it being high at least its a nice positive bite

ive only really ever heard of anything quite that catastrophic happen with lightened flywheels! you definately dont do things in halfs though i'll give you that!

there are no pipes that actually go in to the waterpump it bolts to the block, and its all it can be if it is dripping from the cambelt cover really. last one i did i seem to remember there being some stupid countersunk phillips screw holding the thing on at the top which get completely...

renault remove a fuse when the cars are stored up before they are sold., they call it consumer cut out. cant remember what fuse it is now will look it up tommorow

rear wipers are in no way, shape or form testable fitted or not.

who do you know charges 25 an hour :eek: 40 is the very minimum ive seen other than private jobs including myself which work out at about that,, but i wouldnt want to get involved in doing a clutch on the floor in my time off ??

dont take gunk in the oil filler as gospel for headgasket- they have crank breather problems ie if they block they dont breath properly and give the same symptoms rust in coolant is down to the inside of the block rusting due to antifreeze being left too long between changes can also block...