Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Had mine just short of 400bhp, all the right mods to go with it.
Was still 10x more hard work than my missus.
Best bet these days is just stage 1 mods and 1 bar boost, but they just don't feel that quick at that spec...
For anyone interested, the guide I did a fair few weeks ago has just gone live in the guides section.
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?667892-WRC-Air-Con-Delete-DIY-For-Under-£50
1k miles and still perfect here.
Trouble is, the car cost me £400, the turbo setup cost £200. So I want to keep the costs down on the management. I'm not doing it for huge power, I'm doing it just to do it really - something to do in the workshop over the winter. Just need something to throw a bit more fuel in and something to...
Interesting that. Is that a fuel & ignition computer?
The only other route I thought about it, all be it pikey - is run an mf2 mappable 5th injector, and then have the stock ECU mapped. I.e. the mf2 will look after fuel, and the remap can sort the ignition. Not sure if that's a good idea...
That was what I was worried about. This is only a cheap little project, and I don't want to put too much I to it.
even thought about an mf2 which is like a mappable 5th injector, bit pokey I know but just seeing how low cost I can do. That would be the fuel sorted, but then I've still got the...
Thread revival. Didn't really want to start a new thread.
Can I just ask a question, someone should be able to answer.
If you were to turbo a clio, get all the mechanicals done, get it running etc - what's the cheapest option engine management wise?
My main question is - can you take a stock...
You have a warm up limiter of 6800 and a hot map of 7200 standard on these.
the car needs to be 'properly' up to temp for the higher limiter. I.e. if your car has sat around for a bit and then gone on the rollers - probably still on the lower rpm limiter.
Ph1 172.
Story goes. Changed plugs and leads recently - Obviously the correct ngk's, but used a set of non genuine leads.
Then 2 weeks later, low & lumpy idle. Hmm i thought, i didnt like the look of the non genuine leads - So pitch black one night, open bonnet - sure enough can see little...
Heed to this advice. Otherwise a rod will exit the block from the rear, throught the manifold, through the bulkhead and embed itself in your ballsack.
In short, don't drive like a tool, it's nice to have a blast once in a while.
If you want a hand with the AC delete mate, pop over and I will show you how I did mine - just need an idler & belt (I know the part numbers and can get them from my work - CPA in town). Cost about £45.
Glad I did mine!
Oh my dick....
As said, no history, no belt history, no not history, needs work, needs paint....
A future classic yes, but come on - it needs to be the package....
If you want a car that is worth next to f**k all in 3 years, but the ford.
if you want an interesting car, with character and drivability which will retain good value of kept well.......
You got it...
You could use cams, adjustable pulleys, turbo's, superchargers - whatever you want mate - the power all comes from the mapping. Gone are the 'rs turbo' days when you guessed the fueling and ignition....
Get it turbo's if you must - let the mapper sort the ignition.
Essentially, you 'r****d' I.e. back off the ignition timing to fire slightly later. It helps combat pre ignition - I.e. detonation.
You can't just do it though, with old distributor days yes, not now - the car needs mapping to back the ingnition off.