172 Cup OEM+

[hopgop1]

An update.

The correct radiator arrived, with a day to spare as I have the Cup booked in for an MOT.

Correct rad with mounting points for the fan.
View attachment 1736344

Went in like a glove
View attachment 1736345

Bleed the coolant until the fan kicked in.
Took it for a little spin (Private road as I have no MOT, officer) and it's running well. The temp gauge is sitting ever so slightly above 90, but it did with the old thermostat too. From what I've read on here it's quite normal?

Anyway...
View attachment 1736346

Will update post MOT.

I had the same on my 182 with the temp needle sitting just above 90, think it was about half a bar above if I remember correctly, changed the coolant temp sensor and thermostat and that fixed it. Expect it was the coolant temp sensor though.

 

[Ben perry]

Love this!! Loved and miss my cup don’t know why I sold it 😅🤦🏼‍♂️

 

[bowen86]

A tale of highs and lows.

The high. It past it's MOT.

Then the lows, of which there are a couple.

Starting with the small issue:
Literally on the way home from the MOT the washer jets stopped working, no noise from the pump, nadda. Got home and checked the fuses. All good.
Wiggled the wires to the pump. Still nothing.

I pulled the pump from the washer tank and for some reason tested it, out of the tank and it whirred in to life. Hmmm. Popped it in the tank, didn't work. Took it out, worked. WTAF?! I had to put it in the tank but not too far that it sat what I would say 'nicely' , is that right? Anyway, fixed.

What isn't fixed is this...

I have a rather audible knock from what sounds like the rear passenger side.
It happens when braking at slow speed and when coming to a stop. (5mph approaching a junction)
It's a road speed knock.
It doesn't knock when stopping at pace. (50mph).

The passenger side had a new rear caliper when I refreshed the rear brake lines and bias valve.

It's not wheel bolts or suspension as those bolts are tight.

I've recently fitted new rear discs and bearings (including the spacer), it was knocking before the new discs and bearings.

Nothing was noted on the MOT.

Answers on a postcard?

 

[Brigsy]

My mate had similar rear knock on low speed braking on passenger rear. Ive just changed discs and pads etc today and seems to have dissappeared, unsure what the issue was but bearings looked tired, pads werent the best too.

Might be worth checking caliper bolts tight and pads not making a break for freedom.

 

[bowen86]

OK the knock, I think(?) I've found it.

It sounds just like this.
It feels like it's something hitting the car.
It knocks when gentle braking to come to a stop and never on hard braking.

I'm asking could this be it? As I have no other ideas and my theory, or process of eliminating things is leading me to the bias valve knocking or rattling when soft braking to a stop.

Is this normal operation of the bias valve? Can it be altered? My understanding is that it shouldn't have the arm attached to the beam being a Cup.

 

[Matt Cup]

Fairly certain mines attached? Will have a look under later and get a snap.

 

[Matt Cup]

@bowen86

Here’s mine.

Whether or not it’s correct I don’t know though.

 

[bowen86]

Thanks @Matt Cup.

From what I gather, Cups shouldn't have the bar attached.

Although if it stops this annoying rattle/knock then I'm fitting one.

 

[Matt Cup]

Thanks @Matt Cup.

From what I gather, Cups shouldn't have the bar attached.

Although if it stops this annoying rattle/knock then I'm fitting one.

I don’t remember my previous cup having one, it has been a good few years though. But regardless my current one passes MoT’s with it attached and it doesn’t seem to make the car brake any differently.

 

[the_baron_von_richthofen]

Mine doesn't have the bar attached, this is normal on Cups from what I've read.

 

[bowen86]

I need a way to stop the knocking on part braking. It sounds awful from inside the car.

 

[Brigsy]

Have you checked the rear pads, calipers not sticking and wheel bearings are ok? My mate had the same issue and its gone after i done the brakes last weekend.

 

[bowen86]

Noise was there and I assumed bearings so I replaced the discs and bearings. It's still there.

Pads look to be secured and giving the a tap (hand brake off) they're snug.

I'm positive it's the bias valve.

 

[the_baron_von_richthofen]

Does the bias valve do anything on Cups? If not, just move it to a position lower down.

 

[Matt Cup]

WTF is it even for? If it’s not connected does it even serve a purpose?

 

[the_baron_von_richthofen]

I presume its to change the brake bias when going over bumps etc.

But, like you say, if its not connected, whats the point in it.

 

[Brigsy]

Bias valve is in situ with no rod to stop too much pressure to the rears.

Check torque on caliper bracket bolts. Stick another set of rear pads in, might be pad knock. Assume old ones?

 

[Andy P]

Is the Caliper correct for that side & fitted correctly.

I had a small knocking noise when I had my calipers replaced back in 2020 similar to what you describe.

It was sent back to the dealers to rectify & another technician discovered the calipers had been fitted incorrectly.

The offside on the nearside & nearside on the offside. Swapped around & the noise disappeared.