172 Will Not Start (Video Attached)

[Nigel-James]

Hello people,

My Clio 172 will not start.

The last time I had driven the car was last summer and it was perfect. I have been ill since then and so have not driven the car and unfortunately looking to sell her on.

I tried to start the car last week and she would not start. The engine does not try to turn over at all. I have fitted a new battery as the previous battery was dead, I also removed and tested the starter motor (not fun) and it works perfect when connected a battery.

These are the dashboard lights I am presented with when I turn on the ignition.

After doing some research on the forum I noticed that the red Immobilizer light stays on solid when the ignition is turned on.
It was advised on this forum to move the fuse box around then try again, I cleaned all the dirt/dust off the fuse box and fuses I also re-seated the fuses and then moved the fuse box and wiring around but still no joy, car won't start.

The key is working, locks and unlocks the car doors fine, however this is the only key I have, I do not have a spare key.

I have uploaded a video to YouTube showing you what happens when I try and start the car - hope this helps (find link below).



Any help is much appreciated chaps.

Cheers

Nigel James

 

[Nigel-James]

Quick update:
I just put my CAN OBDII reader into the 172's diagnostics port but it shows "No Codes Found"

I have also just realised that when I lock the car up and look in through the window I can see the red immobilizer light flashing away.

Very confused.

 

[DannyR]

Immobiliser light is fine, it should flash when off and solid when you turn key.

I'd suggest battery but then it would still turn over. Can you check continuity between +vet battery terminal and about an inch down the wire past the big brass connector to make sure that hasn't blown?

 

[msa197]

You got a spare key?

Try that.

 

[RS Charlie]

He only has one key...

I'd see if someone has access to CLIP near you. Hopefully that should surface something. I'd say it could be something as simple as an ignition relay.

OTOH you could have no fuel in the car. For the sake of a £10er I'd throw some in...

 

[RS Charlie]

I have just checked my car. It looks like you have an immobiliser fault. I'll put a video of mine up soon.

 

[DannyR]

I have just checked my car. It looks like you have an immobiliser fault. I'll put a video of mine up soon.

Why? His immobiliser light stays solid as it should

 

[RS Charlie]

Mine goes as follows (unless mine has a fault, although I guess the cars are French!)

No key or no.1 - flashing LED light
No.2 (Ignition) - all lights come on with most of them going off in a few seconds. LED goes solid in the process and then extinguishes out.
Running - No red light.

 

[Rubicon_]

I had this issue when I killed my battery for 2 weeks. Can't remember the reason the auto spark gave but it was something to do with this and the Ecu (or along those lines).

He only took £20 as I think was an easy fix for them.

 

[RS Charlie]

And a video, albeit a poor one!

If you have had the key by a magnet or something like that there is potentially a chance (albeit a very slim one) that the immobiliser chip has gone on the piss. This works independently of the keyfob bit (that only arms and disarms the alarm, thus the opening of the doors etc.

 

[Tomotek]

Have u checked to see if the main earth strap is corroded?.. copper strap between subframe and gearbox (passenger side at front of subframe under the car)

To test if the cable is at fault get a jump cable and put one end on the negative terminal of the battery and the other end on the engine block somewhere (any bare metal or bolt head).. then try and start the car

 

[RS Charlie]

I'd agree with the above if his car did not crank over when the no.2 key position is "tricked". It still sounds like a strong starter.

 

[mad in general]

I have identical symptoms with my car.

Any solution?

 

[mad in general]

@Nigel-James

 

[mad in general]

Hello people,

My Clio 172 will not start.

The last time I had driven the car was last summer and it was perfect. I have been ill since then and so have not driven the car and unfortunately looking to sell her on.

I tried to start the car last week and she would not start. The engine does not try to turn over at all. I have fitted a new battery as the previous battery was dead, I also removed and tested the starter motor (not fun) and it works perfect when connected a battery.

These are the dashboard lights I am presented with when I turn on the ignition.

After doing some research on the forum I noticed that the red Immobilizer light stays on solid when the ignition is turned on.
It was advised on this forum to move the fuse box around then try again, I cleaned all the dirt/dust off the fuse box and fuses I also re-seated the fuses and then moved the fuse box and wiring around but still no joy, car won't start.

The key is working, locks and unlocks the car doors fine, however this is the only key I have, I do not have a spare key.

I have uploaded a video to YouTube showing you what happens when I try and start the car - hope this helps (find link below).



Any help is much appreciated chaps.

Cheers

Nigel James

Sorry to bump again but I have the exact same symptoms as the video in the op!

Does anyone know the solution/fix?

 

[Fishfire]

Sorry to bump again but I have the exact same symptoms as the video in the op!

Does anyone know the solution/fix?

Big bump!

Did anyone get to the bottom of this?

Seems to be a fairly common occurrence and now happening to my 172.

Working my way through possible faults and so far changed the starter, fuel pump, crank position sensor and three of the seven relays, and still get the intermittent failure to start.

Under advice, I've also cleaned up the pins on the white connector block under the main relay holder, and cleaned up.the pins on the remaining original relays.

Still to check is the earth strap.

My problem is intermittent: will be fine for a week, then will do exactly what is happening in the OPs video.

Will see if the solutions above have worked!

 

[Louis]

Big bump!

Did anyone get to the bottom of this?

Seems to be a fairly common occurrence and now happening to my 172.

Working my way through possible faults and so far changed the starter, fuel pump, crank position sensor and three of the seven relays, and still get the intermittent failure to start.

Under advice, I've also cleaned up the pins on the white connector block under the main relay holder, and cleaned up.the pins on the remaining original relays.

Still to check is the earth strap.

My problem is intermittent: will be fine for a week, then will do exactly what is happening in the OPs video.

Will see if the solutions above have worked!

Check all earth, this is usually the immob issue. Also just change your key battery as this can cause it.

 

[Fishfire]

It's not an imobaliser issue. I've got two working keys and it'll intermittently not start on either key, but the immobiliser light is solid and not flashing indicating that the imobaliser isn't the issue.

I'll defo check the earth strap, and you're not the first to say this, so if the problem rears its head again, that will be my next port of call 😁

Only relay I've not changed is the fuel pump relay, but I've switched it over with the identical A/C relay.
Also cleaned up the connector block under the main relay today.

I guess it's just a process of elimination, but if it persists then I'm gonna have myself a little Clio bonfire 🤣

Cheers for the input mate 😁

 

[hopgop1]

I may be wrong, but I thought the immobiliser light being on was it active, quick flashes is key not recognised and the light off is un-immobilised?
So if you try and start with a solid red light it definitely won’t start.

 

[Fishfire]

Sorry, should have been more specific:

Flashes without the key in.

Key in and turn to 2nd position and the light goes solid red, then the immobiliser light goes out and will then turn over.

On occasion it will just crank over but the pump won't prime.

It's such an intermittent fault that it's gotta be down to a sensor or relay, or some duff wiring or connector.
I've got two good keys, and for both of them to have failed/dodgy chips seems unlikely.

I've cleaned up the pins on all the connectors associated with the relays under the bonnet. So far it's starting on the button but we'll see how it goes 🤣

 

[mad in general]

Might sound strange but my clio fails to start for any other driver but me.

Try putting in the key and in 1 movement switch it all the way on to start. Dont do stage 1&2 etc...

Try it

 

[Fishfire]

Might sound strange but my clio fails to start for any other driver but me.

Try putting in the key and in 1 movement switch it all the way on to start. Dont do stage 1&2 etc...

Try it

👍👍

That's the usual way I start it, but I just wanted to see if all the lights were doing as they should, and they seem to be 🤷

 

[wayne_182]

Hello all,

I have a somewhat similar "will not start" problem with my clio 182 from 2005. The pointers above have been tried to no benefit perhaps you have some more ideas....
The story in short:-
1. A week ago I had a clio 182 that ran fine and started first turn of key.... but I had been living with a slipping clutch for a year!!
2. Clutch job started and finished, included dropping the subframe and pulling off gearbox but not touching the engine proper
3. Only three electricals touched - BIG earth wire near bottom gearbox mount - sensor at bottom of gearbox wheel side (I assume reverse sensor) - top of gearbox near flywheel (maybe TDC sensor??)... they are all reconnected.
4. Now will not start ... what do I mean by that....
4.1 Switch key directly to start and the engine turns plenty fast enough for about 2 seconds then stops turning (not by the key)
4.2 If I do the two stage start, lights go out and the engine does not turn at all .... I assume some ECU failure mode prevents start and perhaps it's the same that stops the start-up after 2 seconds in above case 4.1
5. There is fuel, over half tank andI tried jump leads battery to engine (incase of earth issue)
6. OBD reader (very basic model) that I have used before (it worked) .... reports no communications same as when the ignition is off ... strange
7. one last point.... The fuse box has been knocked about a bit with all of the battery in/out ing .... ???

All comments/ tips will be very welcome .... even "sell it" .... but needs to run before going there

Thanks Wayne (as in John Wayne )

 

[wayne_182]

Hello all,

I have a somewhat similar "will not start" problem with my clio 182 from 2005. The pointers above have been tried to no benefit perhaps you have some more ideas....
The story in short:-
1. A week ago I had a clio 182 that ran fine and started first turn of key.... but I had been living with a slipping clutch for a year!!
2. Clutch job started and finished, included dropping the subframe and pulling off gearbox but not touching the engine proper
3. Only three electricals touched - BIG earth wire near bottom gearbox mount - sensor at bottom of gearbox wheel side (I assume reverse sensor) - top of gearbox near flywheel (maybe TDC sensor??)... they are all reconnected.
4. Now will not start ... what do I mean by that....
4.1 Switch key directly to start and the engine turns plenty fast enough for about 2 seconds then stops turning (not by the key)
4.2 If I do the two stage start, lights go out and the engine does not turn at all .... I assume some ECU failure mode prevents start and perhaps it's the same that stops the start-up after 2 seconds in above case 4.1
5. There is fuel, over half tank andI tried jump leads battery to engine (incase of earth issue)
6. OBD reader (very basic model) that I have used before (it worked) .... reports no communications same as when the ignition is off ... strange
7. one last point.... The fuse box has been knocked about a bit with all of the battery in/out ing .... ???

All comments/ tips will be very welcome .... even "sell it" .... but needs to run before going there

Thanks Wayne (as in John Wayne )

Solution to my problem was - missing the second earth connection on the back of the engine ... engine running fine again