Clio Cup 172
All,
While enjoying a spirited blast at Snet yesterday (my 1st session) I had the yellow jagged wire dash light come on and complete loss of engine.
After some playing around:
Disconnected battery and re-connected, yellow light out but now solid immobiliser and red STOP EML light on and flashing, also tried a cheap code reader that showed up no DTC's but did a clear anyway.
I already had fitted a brown relay in place for the std black ones as suggested by a main dealer tech, I tried swapping these all around.
Eventually after cleaning the TDC sensor and also using the hold the key fob while turning we could get the car to turn over but no life. Also changed the coil pack for one that came with the car believed to still be good. Also fitted a brand new battery and ran from the green flag van power lead.
Got it towed home, started to look deeper and found the small 30A fuse in the engine bay was blown changed it it blew again and so far it will keep blowing the fuse.
Since owning it it has on occasions failed to fire up but cranked over and eventually in some cases after removing the key and retrying it ran. Had a similar situation in the pits before going out on track originally.
I have been reading as much as I can, I have bought a 2nd hand immobiliser ring to try to see if that has any influence on the starting, also have 1 original key and one new key (ebay sourced) that has been programmed and worked fine originally.
Firstly anyone tell me what that small 30A fuse is for ?
Then which of the black / brown relays does what ?
I have 2 things more to check earth wire from gearbox it's there but not sure how corroded and I also had someone suggest lambda sensor wire, assume the one in the middle of the car.
I do not have a CLIP diagnostics happy to buy one if it will help me to diagnose as the car is a track day keeper for me as already invested a load in the brakes etc to get it capable.
I am based just outside of Norwich and at the moment the car is not running and cannot be driven so any diagnostics would have to be with a mobile person if anyone has any suggestions.
While enjoying a spirited blast at Snet yesterday (my 1st session) I had the yellow jagged wire dash light come on and complete loss of engine.
After some playing around:
Disconnected battery and re-connected, yellow light out but now solid immobiliser and red STOP EML light on and flashing, also tried a cheap code reader that showed up no DTC's but did a clear anyway.
I already had fitted a brown relay in place for the std black ones as suggested by a main dealer tech, I tried swapping these all around.
Eventually after cleaning the TDC sensor and also using the hold the key fob while turning we could get the car to turn over but no life. Also changed the coil pack for one that came with the car believed to still be good. Also fitted a brand new battery and ran from the green flag van power lead.
Got it towed home, started to look deeper and found the small 30A fuse in the engine bay was blown changed it it blew again and so far it will keep blowing the fuse.
Since owning it it has on occasions failed to fire up but cranked over and eventually in some cases after removing the key and retrying it ran. Had a similar situation in the pits before going out on track originally.
I have been reading as much as I can, I have bought a 2nd hand immobiliser ring to try to see if that has any influence on the starting, also have 1 original key and one new key (ebay sourced) that has been programmed and worked fine originally.
Firstly anyone tell me what that small 30A fuse is for ?
Then which of the black / brown relays does what ?
I have 2 things more to check earth wire from gearbox it's there but not sure how corroded and I also had someone suggest lambda sensor wire, assume the one in the middle of the car.
I do not have a CLIP diagnostics happy to buy one if it will help me to diagnose as the car is a track day keeper for me as already invested a load in the brakes etc to get it capable.
I am based just outside of Norwich and at the moment the car is not running and cannot be driven so any diagnostics would have to be with a mobile person if anyone has any suggestions.
