Adjusting engines mounts to stop knocking, already changed some!

[_Alex_D_]

I know everyone has posted this to death but...

Changed dogbone mount with Hillpowers uprated one, worked great knocking nearly gone.

Tightened drivers side one, better still.

Tried to change lower gearbox mount but didn't manage it, tried to remove battery plate but wouldn't come off mount. Gave up due to time. Put it all back together. Started car and engine looked right solid. Hardly moving. I thought great cracked it!!!!


Drove it and it's worse than ever. Gone to a vibration noise pulling off building up to a knocking noise.


WHAT HAVE I DONE WRONG


Thinking of booking into Hillpower middle of next month to solve this problem and suspension knocking problem but thats gonna be four weeks and I'm going to TRAX soon so would like it sorted.

 

[Fred@BTM]

LOL!!! bloody clios eh!

 

[_Alex_D_]

Come on Fred. What have I done wrong. I couldn't get to the nut on top of the bottom gearbox mount cause I didn't have a spanner that fit so I retightened it up. I tried to get battery plate off but couldn't get to the bolt on the other end of the mount so I gave in.

Now I did this with the dogbone undone at the small end. When I put the bolt back in I had to get my mate to rock the engine so that it lined up. Have I moved something maybe. Gonna try and loosen them all tomorrow and pull engine forward. Also the mount on battery plate was turning while I tried to undo the nut. Thought of adding a washer to squash it down more as I think it was at end of the thread.

 

[Fred@BTM]

get a better tool kit?

tbh i have no idea what you've done wrong, the battery tray is easy to get out!

4 x 13mm bolts, 1 x 18mm nut (you have to hold the shaft from underneath to get the nut off)

 

[_Alex_D_]

It was getting under that I struggled with. Going to get 13mm spanner tomorrow.
Thing was when the nut was off the bolt was still stuck to the battery tray. It wouldn't slide out the mount. Is there one at the bottom that I needed to undo? Couldn't see the point of the nut on the bolt at the top if it wasn't holding the nut in.

What I don't get is how I've made it worse by taking it to bits and putting it back together?!?!

 

[Fred@BTM]

there's one under the bit bolted to the gearbox

 

[_Alex_D_]

Thank f**k for that. Taken to bits again today and I've think I've sorted it.

Before the car would hop and judder in a multi story car park when my mates smokes. Now no vibration or rattle and wheels do spin rather than hop. RESULT!

Ended up changing both gearbox mounts because I thought by the time I've messed with one might as well do both!

When I took it to pieces I notice the mount under battery tray had slipped back (if you pull engine forward on both top mounts most of the banging is cut out) so I brought some new nuts and washers and fitted the mount as Fred helped me out.
Bottom gearbox mount same. Borrowed some tools this time. Pulled mount forward before tightening.


So far all seems good. Just want a rain test because that is usually the REAL test. I've temporary stopped this problem before for a couple of weeks but rain always catches it out. Mind you with new mounts I have my fingers firmly crossed!

Oh and I shoved a bit of rubber in the drivers mount to pack it in the housing. Don't know if it will stay there but it has firmed it up a fair bit.

 

[ben_p]

for phs1


jack the car up and secure it.
drop the front bolt of the new dog bone mount. (engine side)
see the black bracket attached to the gear box?
slacken the top bolt to finger tight its 13mm
then using a screwdriver or something to pivet the bottom of the black bracket forward to wards the front of the car (so the top of it leans to the back of the car)
it will only move 5mm or so should look like this \ lol.. keep pushing hard and tighten up the top nut nice and tight.
now with some force or a friend to bar the engine so you can line up the dog bone mount then re bolt that up.

then do this

remove the engine cover.
undo the 4 bolts on the left hand mount
get a bar(big one)
jam it behind the back of the mount and rest it against the strut piller
****mind the AC pipes**** do not rest it against them
push the bar towars the rear of the car (moving the engine forward as far as it will possibly go)
nip all four bolts up nice and tight

 

[_Alex_D_]

Yep thats exactly what I did! I hadn't done the first bit like you said before and that 5mm makes hell of a difference. New mounts help as well obviously but the adjustment is the main bit I think. Thats where I went wrong before I think!

Nice little guide that though Ben. Think it will help others. I've read loads of posts but they get bogged down with axle tramps post and don't floor it post. Nice to see someone post something clear and simple (and accurate.)

 

[ChrisR]

ALso you can stick some 3mil (I think) washers under each bolt on the driver side engine mount to lift it ever so slightly. They sag over time so the engine drops a little, this solved a problem I had when testing out an uprated mount.

Gone back to standard though as the increased vibration wasn't worth it

 

[_Alex_D_]

So you stick the washers under the four bolts that hold the mount down?

I know there is washers on top. Just want to confirm under the four bolts not on top of the actuall rubber/bush bolt.


Cheers for help!!!

 

[Fred@BTM]

and people say i'm just hear to sell sell sell!

 

[_Alex_D_]

Never sold me oat! ha ha

 

[Russ_16v]

silly question,is there another box mount under the box mount tht sits in the battery tray?