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Attemping boosted ph1
- Thread starter danh90
- Start date
182 Cup
Studs will have the same problem if they're a poor grade, and stuff like washers aren't used.
Heat cycling is a pain in the arse with fasteners, get some made from decent metal (t41 equivalent, or duraheat 1100 would work) and get them tight with washers on, and they shouldn't be coming undone!
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I don't understand how a grade of bolt will help it coming loose, never heard that before, i'm ready to be proved wrong.
182 Cup
I clicked post way too early. I blame the time.
Anyway, cheap metal threads will stretch, whether they're studs or bolts.
Heat cycling and the level of heat will affect cheap metal over time, and also differing qualities of metal will expand and contract at different rates. Turbo casings will be obviously made out of decent metal to take the temperatures, which means that the bolts/studs need to be high spec to try and give similar expansion. This is a reason torque settings are given in other areas such as head bolts etc.
Decent metal such as T41 and duraheat 1055 (previous post was wrong its early) is designed to be used in high temperatures continuously. An example, on a turbine outer casing, we're not allowed to use anything less than the standards of T41 because the heat, and heat cycling would affect metals of a lesser quality
Yeah fair enough on that mate, cheap eBay bolts will expand more than the housing but surely you have at least 10.9's in there Dan?
Studs are 90% of the time a higher grade metal than your average bolt cost wise so that was my thinking plus it will be easier to fit a turbo and gasket if you have room for the studs.
182 Cup
With you on the easier to fit part that's for sure. Lol pain in the arse with bolts.
Ph1 T
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=310357726203&index=3&nav=WATCHING&nid=22187247722
Would this oil return kit be fine for the job? Also with this how do I fit it to the sump would I need to ally weld the fitting on again or is it nutted on inside the sump?
Would this oil return kit be fine for the job? Also with this how do I fit it to the sump would I need to ally weld the fitting on again or is it nutted on inside the sump?
Weld on or tap and lock nut a fitting in both require removing the sump to be done right so I would go with weld on personally. Make sure that the drain collector is right for your turbo's central block.
edit: depending on your boss you have on already you could get a 'x' over from an10 to yours.
edit: depending on your boss you have on already you could get a 'x' over from an10 to yours.
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Clio 172
Glad to see it's having a full revamp rather than being stripped and sold. You'll be happy and immensly proud once it's all completed. Sense of achievement and all that jazz.
172 cup, Impreza P1
Youll need to remove the sump for a weld on boss as well as I wouldn't want the swarf to fall into the sump when drilling it.
I've wnt for a weld on boss to the block this time to make sure the drain entry will always be above the oil level. This is not always the ce with a sump return no matter how high it is on the sump.
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Yeah that's what I said, wasn't very clear tbh. Typical phone grammar.
I think he already has a welded boss so a 'x' over would be the easiest option, I don't know the thread types or packaging space though.
Yeah if you try and weld it on when its on the car its quite low, so it would have to be a dwarf that did the welding.
172 cup, Impreza P1
Yeah if you try and weld it on when its on the car its quite low, so it would have to be a dwarf that did the welding.
Lol, just noticed that. :rasp:
Bloddy iPads!
Trophy Turbo :)
Dont drill the sump, do it properly and take it back In to the block,
172 cup, Impreza P1
Ph1 T
This!
That just drilled out and the fitting welded in there?
Drilled and tapped not welded is the way to go.
Trophy Turbo :)
doing the job properly, i.e as i said and as Steve posted a photo its a 1"bsp fitting, sorts the issue sof the return hitting the drive shaft etc, wont leak and is just the way it needs to be done
172 cup, Impreza P1
Why?
172 cup, Impreza P1
There is a flat on the rear of the block that is perfect for it. Weld the boss in place then drill through the fitting to give you the hole. Worked out fine for me and a few other and as Andy says, you wont need to worry about leaks. Just use a good MIG weld and make sure the area is clean.
Because welding a fitting into the block will be horrid as its cast iron, plus if its drilled and tapped then its replaceable easily in future.
Please bear in mind my post you quote was ONLY in the context of it going into the block, not the sump, the sump isnt strong enough to make do will drilling and tapping.
Trophy Turbo :)
i personaly drill and tap with a 1"BSP fitting.
I can supply you a Drill Bit, Tap and Fitting on a cost of the fitting and deposit for the Drill bit and tap to be returned. and deposit refunded
I can supply you a Drill Bit, Tap and Fitting on a cost of the fitting and deposit for the Drill bit and tap to be returned. and deposit refunded
Clio T 314hp c43 AMG
I still wouldn't just drill and tap the sump, its so thin and only ally.
Trophy Turbo :)
drilling the sump isnt the way to go, esp on a Phase 2 car. For the sake for no extra time doing the block is a better all round option , if renault use that point on the F4RT series then it says it all 
Trophy Turbo :)
Its easy enough in the car, with the sump off and a Magnet.
