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black mk1 16v



wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
it starts

few problems upto now :-

rev counter no working at all - don't know why its all wired up properly as f0xy guide
most of dash not working i.e. battery light, hand brake light - have no clue why its doing this
aux dials not working - again don't know why but they should work except oil pressure

need to get it fully working by Monday cos my daily has got to go back to my brother
 
If your using the Mk1 clocks you have to add a 'pull up' resistor (10k to 12v) otherwise the revs show half...

Other wiring may be because your loom is a Ph2 or Ph2.5, I dont even know what variant mine is (that the guide works from), although adams dash worked etc... Time to get the multimeter out!
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
If your using the Mk1 clocks you have to add a 'pull up' resistor (10k to 12v) otherwise the revs show half... ive done that the rev counter isn't working at all, it was bouncing earlier when cranking but the fuel pump wasn't priming, after messing with the connector block it started priming but the rev counter stopped bouncing. so i recon its something to do with the connector block. i'll have a mess with it tommorrow


Other wiring may be because your loom is a Ph2 or Ph2.5, I dont even know what variant mine is (that the guide works from), although adams dash worked etc... Time to get the multimeter out! this could be aswell to the connector block it looks like some pins arn't connecting properly. its just weird that the handbrake light doesn't work either wich has nothing to do with the engine loom.

didn't adam use a mk2 dash.

also the thermostat isn't opening at the moment so got to test that again in the morning. but at least the water temp gauge is working lol
 
  BMW M5 & E36
The ignition live you've used to connect the resistor to, did you check it with a multimeter? Think I ended up taking mine from the wiper stalk! As you've said, handbrake light shouldn't have been affected so more than likely a bad connection somewhere.

Battery light.. have you checked the battery is ~14v when running? I had to add an extra wire to my alternator as the signal to 'turn on' (to that brown 2 pin plug), and iirc my battery light didn't work until I added that.

My oil temperature showed on the pressure gauge for some reason, never got round to looking why, you might find that's the case with yours too if you followed jords guide. I never got round to buying a T piece so I don't know if my pressure would have worked.
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
The ignition live you've used to connect the resistor to, did you check it with a multimeter? Think I ended up taking mine from the wiper stalk! As you've said, handbrake light shouldn't have been affected so more than likely a bad connection somewhere.

i used a feed from the ecu so it hide/protect the resistor. ive checked everything multiple times with a multimeter. i also think its a loose connection some where seeing as it bounced on cranking earlier but not now.


Battery light.. have you checked the battery is ~14v when running? I had to add an extra wire to my alternator as the signal to 'turn on' (to that brown 2 pin plug), and iirc my battery light didn't work until I added that.

the battery is getting 14v, i'm using a 172 alternator so only need one cable for the light, agin i think its a mater of loose connections or blown bulbs, just stange its taken all the lights on from that row on the dials. i may chuck my spare zerod dials in to see if that solves it


My oil temperature showed on the pressure gauge for some reason, never got round to looking why, you might find that's the case with yours too if you followed jords guide. I never got round to buying a T piece so I don't know if my pressure would have worked.

i think mine are the wrong way round like yours were, but nothing was showing on either after running for a while.again i think its a connection problem, ill have to check all the connections again in the morning. ive got a t piece but doesn't clear the pas brackets so i left it off i'll sort it eventually its not a necessity
.

above
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
got a bit more working now and it is defiantly a connection problem with the connector block. cos intermittently I've got the rev counter working and the oil,coolant warning lights and all that jazz, but if i touch the connector block one or two of them stop working.
I'll have to look into a better solution for the connector block.
also the thermostat and fan is now working, it looked like i chickened out to early last time.

a few problems have a rise:-

the aux belt has slipped some a tooth over on the pas pump - so i might have to put the original pump and pulley on to sort that out.

still not fully test the pas and the pipe work yet - this is because i don't want to fill it up just to have to drain it when i pas pump

my ph1 air box will not fit the bay at all the battery seems to be in the way and the airbix sit to far forward - i think for now ill have to run my pipercross till i eventually relocate the battery

I've still no drove it yet I can't find my spacers and the 172 wheels rub on the struts with out them, so don't know how well it pulls or anything yet
icon_sad.gif
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
had a look at the aux set up again today and it seems that its the bottom pully that is make it jump a tooth/rib on the aux belt. it looks like the aux set up is a tooth width to left, so with eyeing it i reckon a 5 rib belt will solve the problem and hopefully stop it jumping.

and its seems it has a small coolant leek, not to sue where its coming from yet but seems to be a small patch of water under the gearbox so i'm surpecting the thermostat housing.

also i will get photos soon i promise especially of the bodges and exhaust just for matteh
 
  '92 172, Lotus Elise
If your using the Mk1 clocks you have to add a 'pull up' resistor (10k to 12v) otherwise the revs show half...

just to clear this up

you will get a half rpm reading if you connect one of the 2 coil pack signal wires to the mk1 clocks. don't attach a pullup to these!

attach a pullup to the ecu's rpm output that would normally drive the mk2 clocks - and then connect the ecu to the clocks for a proper rpm signal

(not aimed at anyone in particular, just saying :rasp:)
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
some pics of the car. i know the inlet is not to everyone's taste it came out a bit brighter than i was expecting but doesn't look to bad, it also doesn't photograph well. it ideally needs redoing because some of the paint has chipped of when fitting and cutting bonnet.
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here how i connected up my heater matrix to the 172 coolant pipe. and i say it can get might toasty
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also how i got the 172 cat to fit with the valver exhaust.

its just a standard 172 ph2 cat with a few modifications
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the modifications done to it. the 172 has a extra bit of pipe pushing out the flange, this was cut off.
then because of it being 2 1/4 inch bore and my valver exhaust being 2 inch the bolt holes didn't match up. i then elongated the bolt hole so that the fit with the valver stuff. i knocked a dint in to the downpipe so that it didn't catch on the anti roll bar. this doesn't show on the pics but its enough so it wont knock.
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it fitted to the car, the centre section was modified because the 172 car comes to far back.
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Good work - glad to see its finally getting there!

I suppose you could just shorten the cat on the exhaust/center section side which would allow you to run any Mk1 fitment exhaust too
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
Good work - glad to see its finally getting there!

yeah its back on the road now, just having to drive with no pas at the moment cos i broke something on the rack

I suppose you could just shorten the cat on the exhaust/center section side which would allow you to run any Mk1 fitment exhaust too

that was the first idea but it was awkward to work of with it all off the car. this option gave the most flexibility to be fine adjusted by me on the drive
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
the car is now back on the road fully and being used daily. over the past few weeks ive had a few problems but they have been sorted now.


firstly my power steering wasn't working. this was do to a custom rack to pump line I had made kept blowing off . the first time it blew of was because the place that made it had used the wrong olive in the connection so didn't get a proper grip of it. next time to other end blew off due to no being tight enough this was might fault for not checking it properly. so after these problems were sorted out i re fitted the line all was fine till it started weeping from the main connection, i gave it a 1/4 turn to make sure it was fully tight. what a mistake this 1/4 turn blew the side of pinion part of the rack. a new pinion part was need to fix it.

i bought a replacement rack from northy over on WC so i could change just the pinion part to save myself some time and have a spare rack if needs be.

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the part that needed removing

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pipes removed

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the part that i needed

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i then remove then same part of the rack on the car. this was very awkward to do whilst the rack was in the car to do it I had to unbolt it completely from the car bar the track rods.

this i how much room i had it looks more than it actually is.

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the damage to the pinion

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yep well and truly f**ked.

i then set about fitting the new pinion, i tried and tried for about an hour to get it to fit but it wasn't having any off it. so i removed the rack from the car it literally just fits the drivers side wheel well.
with the rack removed i tried to fit the pinion again and it still wasn't having any off it. I only realised where i was going wrong when i compared the pinions with each other.

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old broken one
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new one
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the new one had 7 splines and the old one had 6 splines so wouldn't fit. pissed off wasn't the word but it was an unknown whether they were fully interchangeable and by this time it was getting dark so i packed up and left it for the day.

the next day i set about having to fit the whole new rack that i had purchased, but it was an unknown and need new ball joints. just after i finished building it back up the post man turned up with the pinion that i had bought off matteh as back up. when i checked it had 6 splines like my original, i checked it fit, it slipped in the rack a dream. the rack was then reassembled then re fitted. again refitting it very awkward but doable.

i then reassembled all the piping but instead of using the custom rack to pump line i used the line that came with the rack i had bought. it worked out to be a better fit and cleared the downpipe unlike the original pipe.

the pas fluid was then refilled and i started the bleeding process when the pas sensor on the 172 pump blew off and sprayed the bay for the 3rd time in pas fluid. just after it had done this the pulley for the pump started rubbing on the bracket. i then changed the pump for the valver on so get it running again and to do away with the pas sensor.
it went in relatively painlessly and i started filling it again and to my surprise it held pressure and fluid and bleed all ok.

when i checked the 172 pump it seems that the bearings had failed in it. suppose that's what happens when you run it dry for a couple of weeks.

heres a couple of photos to show what it looked like after i had finished the work on it.

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a few days later i broken down, the car spluttered and died with a lack of fuel. initially I thought that the crash switch had activated seeing that i had just gone over a bump. this wasn't so because i could smell a strong smell of petrol, looked out the window down on the floor and there was a pool of petrol forming. this was not a great time to brake down i was on the main road in rush hour, luckily i was about a hundred yards from a pub car park i managed to push it to it to check how bad the problem was.
The bodged fuel lines had pulled out under the car, all i could do was find a screwdriver in the boot and jam it up the pipe and jubilee it on till the next morning. The next morning i went of to the local factors to grab some fuel pipes and all the necessary bits to run new fuel lines. an hour later new fuel lines on and back up and running.

the sticking idle was then fixed when i visited f0xy, he gave me some of his patented power bands which sorted the idle a treat.

sorry for the massive post and lack of pic for some of it, just wasn't in the mood to be taking photos for some of it
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
yeah, i expected teething problems but was suppose to have my daily still whilst i was working them out. but it had go back to my brother, anyway its fixed for now(goes and molesters a piece of wood)

i also forgot that because ive messed with the rack the steering wheel is now sideways when going straight. i though it would be easy to sort, pop the air-bag off, remove steering wheel, refit in right place then refit air-bag. but no the screws/bolts holding the air-bag rounded off so im stuck with a steering wheel on sideways and can't see the speedo when driving
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
Power bands, just lol.

Looked good when you popped up the other night, really neat job :)

thanks mate - done a few more jobs since then aswell. i fit that bit for the mount and started work on removing the coil pack brackets on the new inlets plus a few other bits:)

yeah i thought it was the apt name for them, they have stopped me looking like a chav all the time
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
1 Year of ownership.

i have now owned this car a year, in that year its only been on the road 3 months. it annoyed me, frustrated me and pushed me to the brink of pushing it to the canal but i wouldn't be without it now.
all the plains i had for the car haven't happened but instead its got a new engine and not the one i was originally planing on.

anyway
the car now has a fresh MOT, to get it threw it a new drivers seat was needed. for aslong as ive had the car the drivers seat has had a little rock to it. it hasn't bothered me, but the mot man said no it needed sorting. so i banged in the new seat to pass its MOT.

i thought the old seat had just broke one of the runners. so was going to swap over the runners then fit the seats in my sister clio for here.

after removing the the plastic trim it was so apparent how wrong I was

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the runner
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the subframe
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don't know what has caused it other than a crash but there isn't any crash damage on the car at all.


also the other day got a proper squeal from aux belt when i turned the wheel. so i had a check in the bay to see what was up.
i checked the belt and it was proper slack and could see the alternator slapping about. i quickly spotted the problem, one of the bolts from the set had worked loose and gone MIA
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luckily I had a m10 bolt and nut laying about so bodged them on. i really need to change the nut to a nyloc so it shouldn't vibrate loose.

thankfully the belt didn't come off and taken the cambelt with it

i think the car is telling me to get rid of the pas
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
also been and made some new purchases yesterday. i bought a widetrack the only think that it doesn't have is the shocks but at the price i got it at it was still a bargain. also bought some willy wheels they need a refurb to go with the car cos there still gold and have a few paint chips. might shove them on for a laugh to see what they look like.

any recommend a good colour for the wheels was think either white or anthracite.
 

Bluebeard

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
I've got a standard set of williams shocks you can have if you want mate. Cover the postage and i'll send them to you. They're only sat in my garage doing sod all.
 
Make sure you get pins/connectors with enough scope for the different size wires/amps that will be passing through, dont want to be having a fire!
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
they go up to 6 iirc

going to use a few of them but all different sizes so not to confuse them.

i just need to check there amp rating mainly for the ign+
 
Yeah and the starter solenoid wire. I did away with the brown/white engine bay connectors, my loom runs elsewhere with just the brown and black connectors under the dash inside so I just unplug it there. Although, the loom does not run through the normal hole as the cage is in the way
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
it looks virtually the same as the original sale advert but with odd seats in it.

might do some more when i wash it tommorrow
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
today was the day i was final going to fit my replacement carpet, ive only had it a year. also at same time fit all of my new seats.

i firstly jacked it up

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removed the seats, centre console, foot rest and lower seat belt mount. once these were free i could remove the carpet.

carpet removed
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shows the big rip in it and my helper for the day
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i was getting ready to get the new carpet i notice a bit of rust which turned out to be rot.
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it has gone all the way threw in most of the places.

this put the plans of the new carpet and seats on hold till I treat the rust and get it plated.

so rocking around with only the drives seat in till I sort it.

what's the best way of treating it. a wire brush and s**t loads of krust. then plating over it
 


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