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Clio 16v Engine Query



C

Chris Green



Hello all,



Ive got a 96 clio 1.8 16v, which I drove through some flood water, and knackered the engine. What is likely to be wrong with it? if the cambelt snapped, would it be the valves or the conrods that would have bent?

Ive been quoted £350 for a replacement engine out of a clio, and could fit that reasonably simply (the old engine is nearly out).

However, Ive got some questions....

will an F7P out of a R19 fit easily? Ive heard the mountings are different, but could I use my engine mountings off my Clios F7P?

Would an F7R bottom end off a Williams fit straight onto my F7P head? and what about the F7R engine out of a megane? are the mountings different again? Ive heard that the F7R bottom end is a lot stronger than the F7P?

and finally, would it be worth rebuilding my engine? or would you suggest buying a replacement lump?

Thanks very much!



Chris.
 
BenR

BenR



Quote: Originally posted by Chris Green on 23 March 2004


Hello all,

Hello!

Ive got a 96 clio 1.8 16v, which I drove through some flood water, and knackered the engine. What is likely to be wrong with it? if the cambelt snapped, would it be the valves or the conrods that would have bent?

If you hydrolocked it your in for a seriously bent bottom end...think along the lines of scrap.

Ive been quoted £350 for a replacement engine out of a clio, and could fit that reasonably simply (the old engine is nearly out).

You can get cheaper for just the engine.

However, Ive got some questions....

will an F7P out of a R19 fit easily? Ive heard the mountings are different, but could I use my engine mountings off my Clios F7P?

Same engine, jsut use your clio anciliaries.

Would an F7R bottom end off a Williams fit straight onto my F7P head? and what about the F7R engine out of a megane? are the mountings different again? Ive heard that the F7R bottom end is a lot stronger than the F7P?

Both the willy and megane bottom ends will fit striaght on, but you need the smalled starter motor off the willy, and the crank off he F7P if you use the megane block. F7R bottom end is primarily weaker for high rpm use. Crank is the same as that out of the 1.9 diesel clio.

and finally, would it be worth rebuilding my engine? or would you suggest buying a replacement lump?

Dont bother rebuilding, jsut get a replacement.

Thanks very much!

No probs

Chris.
Click to expand...
 
R

rockport



i would have thought your problems would have been more along the lines of electrical problems rather then mechnical - Why the new enigne?
 
C

Chris Green



Bloody Hell!

4 Replies in 20 minutes! best forum Ive been on for a while!

Cheers everyone.

I guess an F7P out of clio is the safest option. at least there is no messing around with rebuilding it etc. 140BHP will do just fine. it was great before.

You say that the R19 is the same engine? are the mounts not even different then?

How much should I be paying for a complete block with ancilliaries then?

Cheers!

Chris.
 
BenR

BenR



Nope, engine is exactly the same within reason, bar inlet manifolds anda few other details which make no difference.

Buy a whole engine, itll be easier, your top end might be damaged if it hydrolocked then snapped the belt.

Mounts are all the same between the whole F7 range.
 
C

Chris Green



Thanks Ben.

Ill look out for a R19 as well then!

How much should I be paying for a complete engine with all ancilliaries then? Im after a lowish mileage one (85k ish) and out of a 95/96 car if poss.

Cheers,

Chris.
 
BenR

BenR



You dont need the anciliaries so long as yours are working.

Use all your old inlt manifold, fuel rail, injectors, TB, exhaust manifold and associated gubbins.
 
C

Chris Green



Id rather keep the old engine intact, was hoping it would be my next project.

would it cost a lot more to buy a complete engine with all ancilliaries then?

Cheers.
 
S

stan*

  2005 Nissan Navara


depends wot damage has been done.

itll be cheaper 2 find new engine (£200ish maybe less) and just replace whole lump (or 19 16v and swap ancillaries), then rebuild urs 2 a higher spec if it isnt 2 bad, or just sell it....
 
C

Chris Green



Yeah, I thought that.

If I bought a replacement engine, I would like to fit it straight in. no messing around. (Id change the clutch and cambelt, as they are such a b**ch to do when the engine is in the car!!!).

Then I could look into modding my old engine!

Cheers.
 
M

Matt16v

  300bhp MR2 Turbo


I know some one selling a whole R19 16v for a £100

The engine is fine in it but the gear box is stuffed so its not drivable.
 
BenR

BenR



well, i still dont understand.

What happened to your current broke engine.

Has water just messed up the electronics, or did it get inside and hydro lock it?

Like i said, if water got inside, your block will be scrap.
 
BenR

BenR



yup

Thats why sealed boxes where the inlet is placed near the bumper you steer clear of standing water.

But the inlet has to be totally submerged.
 
C

Chris Green



Quote: Originally posted by BenR on 23 March 2004


well, i still dont understand.

What happened to your current broke engine.

Has water just messed up the electronics, or did it get inside and hydro lock it?

Like i said, if water got inside, your block will be scrap.





Sorry for the confusion. :confused:

I believe that the block has hydraulicd, and that it has jammed up solid.

I understand that the block will be scrap, but I was hoping to get another block and keep the original head and ancilliaries etc. and that would be why Im keen on buying a complete engine.

Cheers mate,:D

Chris.
Click to expand...
 
J

JAY172

  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


if its locked up with the water then youll have a nice set of bent con rods.have you tried removing the plugs to get the water out and trying it,you never know you might be lucky.the bent rods would cause a drop in compression on the cylinder with the bent rod,an engine imbalance and if the head was removed you would visually see the cylinder with the bent rods as the piston height would be different.either way a second hand engine would be the cheapest repair.get a second hand lump and use your auxs if the engine doesnt come with any.
 
B

BigChris

  German Barge


I may still have that engine for sale mate...depends on how this deal goes. If your after one let me know, and we can talk it through. My email is mailto:memphisrainesthebooster@hotmail.com">memphisrainesthebooster@hotmail.com

Chris.
 
C

Chris Green



originally posted by Jay 172

if its locked up with the water then youll have a nice set of bent con rods.have you tried removing the plugs to get the water out and trying it,you never know you might be lucky.the bent rods would cause a drop in compression on the cylinder with the bent rod,an engine imbalance and if the head was removed you would visually see the cylinder with the bent rods as the piston height would be different.either way a second hand engine would be the cheapest repair.get a second hand lump and use your auxs if the engine doesnt come with any.
Click to expand...


I took out the spark plugs, and turned the engine over on the starter, and the water came out, but then the engine jammed.

The problem is, the engine has sat on my sisters drive for 18 months, so it needs a rebuild, even if there is nothing wrong with it.

I think Ill be doing a deal with Glenn on his engine to be honest. thanks for the offer though BigChris.

Regards,

Chris.
 
J

JAY172

  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


if its been sat for 18 months with water in the bores i dread to think what they look like.sounds like the engines scrap mate im afraid.
 
C

Chris Green



yeah, thought as much. not a big problem though, because Ive got the cash to get another engine.

I couldnt rebuild this engine for the cost of a replacement one, so it makes sense to buy another one. and Ill get it on the road quicker!

Hopefully the bores will be alright after a bit of honing, if not, I hope the head is ok. I was thinking the oil in the engine might have mixed with the water and still protected the bores a little bit. but if the rods are bent anyway, it wont matter!

How do you quote people on here then? I noticed mine didnt work!

Cheers,

Chris.
 
J

JAY172

  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


The quote worked on one on your previous posts mate. Maybe just a glitch-bloody computers eh.
 
C

Chris Green



Quote: Originally posted by JAY172 on 23 March 2004

The quote worked on one on your previous posts mate. Maybe just a glitch-bloody computers eh.
Click to expand...
Ah! there is a quote button now Im on work pc.

On my pc at home, the quote button wasnt there! oh well!

Cheers.
 
C

Chris Green



I am planning on changing the clutch and cambelt whilst the engine is out of the car, is there anything else that would be worth replacing while I can work on it easily? what are the common problems associated with the F7P and 16v box?

I dont fancy rebuilding the gearbox, but how easy are these to replace when fitted in the car?

Thanks!

Chris
 
C

Chris Green



Thanks Adams, but is it really dificult when its fitted in the car?

Is the gearbox likely to knacker up, what is likely to go wrong? its done about 80-90k miles.

anything else?

Cheers.

p.s. what is broke on your clio? gutting isnt it!
 
Adams_16v

Adams_16v

  20VT Clio & 9-5 HOT


well i had mine rebuilt at 60k when i had the engine rebuilt mainly for peace of mind but its just died after 18k. but it has had some hammer. i did a full throttle change once that fuked it up and its since then its got worse until its final death. now up there in renault heaven.

90k u might be better off having it rebuilt, or sourcing a lower millage box, you dont want it going in 20-30k mile and costing lots of pennies. but it might last mate

p.s dont do full throttle changes, especially with a very sharp clutch.
 
BenR

BenR



The kit is

77 01 469 775 R19/ME KIT T/BELT 77.00 ---3 x 1

This has everything, and the idler just keeps the belt taught
 
C

Chris Green



cheers Ben!

youre a star. So the kit includes "belts, pumps, tensioners & idlers" or is that just a cambelt/idler kit? what pumps?

I guess £77 is the price too?

Thanks.
 
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