Clio 182 Turbo

[Clio.lee]

Any updates on the Clio

 

[Yarp]

Any updates on the Clio

No, not much up at the min. I was silly and let the MOT expire in April so it’s never moved since. The exhaust has a blow that I need to sort but aside from that it’ll go straight through, it’s just finding the time and motivation. Battery is also totally dead and won’t hold charge which. Again easy fix.

This is how it’s sat. On the upside the carpet tiles keep the dust in the garage well under control so it’s nice and clean

 

[Yarp]

The Clio has been in hiding for a while after it’s mot ran out. Main problem is a blowy exhaust which I assumed was coming from the joint that sits above the subframe. Access is a right t**t and the only way to do it properly is to drop the subframe and I couldn’t be arsed.

I finally built up the motivation to look at it today. I fitted a new battery and started on with lowering the subframe. While undoing the back bolts, I spotted where the blow was coming from

The downpipe has cracked clean across one of the welds and is now in 2 bits. The only way to access all the bolts is with it off the car so off came the turbo too

It’s a lovely clean split. Anyway, that stopped play for today. I now need to ask my local exhaust place very nicely if they’ll weld it back up. My only concern is that it happens again but suppose there’s only one way to find out

 

[YorkshireKyle]

Scorpion downpipe by any chance?

 

[Yarp]

No, it’s a TRW one that the guy in Portugal makes. The welds are neat but not the meatiest looking things Ive seen. I’ll get it welded back up and see if they can maybe add a bit of a brace onto it. I’m going to fit a flexi just after the subframe too. All the weight of the exhaust basically hangs on that downpipe

 

[YorkshireKyle]

No, it’s a TRW one that the guy in Portugal makes. The welds are neat but not the meatiest looking things Ive seen. I’ll get it welded back up and see if they can maybe add a bit of a brace onto it. I’m going to fit a flexi just after the subframe too. All the weight of the exhaust basically hangs on that downpipe

Aye was gonna say that, see if you can brace it on the block to save it from cracking again. My mate went through 2 downpipes and welded them both multiple times

In the end he added bellows from a wagon exhaust and a brace from the block to the turbo that solved it

 

[Donny_Dog]

A Flexi should sort it, like you suggest. I had the same issue on the Saxo.

 

[Yarp]

Yeah I think it should work. I’ll get them to add a brace in where the tape is and then I can knock something up that bolts to the block from there and then the flexi should take a bit of stress off too. It’d be tight to add a bellow but if it does it again one would probably squeeze in on the short straight bit just before it turns to join back to the rest of the system

 

[YorkshireKyle]

My mate added a bellow in that straight part and then a flexi in the exhaust too. Never cracked again after 3 years of daily abuse too

 

[Yarp]

The Clio has been a bit neglected recently so pulled my finger out a bit. I had the downpipe welded up back at the end of October.

While the turbo was off I decided to widen the wastegate port slightly. I’ve always had to leave one of the ports on the boost pipes unplugged to create a tiny bit of a boost leak to stop it holding 10psi and blowing up. Hopefully this should help!

I then heat wrapped it (f**king hate that stuff) and joined it back together

I then went to refit it to discover that it won’t fit with the downpipe on. Note to self for next time it comes off: FIT THE DOWNPIPE IN THE BAY.

The only way it goes in with enough space to work with is to take the dogbone off, loosen the top engine mount then jack the back of the engine to push it up and forwards. With that done the turbo drops in and there’s space to bolt the downpipe on and move it all about. Didn’t get any photos but more to follow over the next few days. The worst job in the world is due next which is joining the downpipe to the decat around the arse of the subframe

 

[Fishfire]

I used the ED downpipe with the V band fitting.
Pe

I found it makes connecting to the cat a little easier as you can leave the down pipe disconnect from the turbo to give you get more access to the stupid sprung loaded bolts. Just a case of wiggling it back up and connecting the V band once the cats bolted on.

Still a t**t of a job though.

Good call with widening the wastegate too. Mine holds 12psi really well....well it does since I also binned the eBay actuator and fitted a Garrett actuator lol.

You still thinking of forging the engine?

 

[Yarp]

I used the ED downpipe with the V band fitting.
Pe

I found it makes connecting to the cat a little easier as you can leave the down pipe disconnect from the turbo to give you get more access to the stupid sprung loaded bolts. Just a case of wiggling it back up and connecting the V band once the cats bolted on.

Still a t**t of a job though.

Good call with widening the wastegate too. Mine holds 12psi really well....well it does since I also binned the eBay actuator and fitted a Garrett actuator lol.

You still thinking of forging the engine?

Ah the v-band would be amazing. I’ll probably just drop the subframe to start with, it come off pretty easily now the new bolts are on. If not I’ll just spend an hour swearing at not being able to get the springs on and end up dropping it anyway .

I’ve still got the pistons sat in the box in the garage. I’m properly 50/50 with it. It needs sorted and MOT’d first so that’s the main plan. Once it’s running again I’ll get that sorted.

I’ve bought a winter run-about so I don’t have to use the M3, but that now means we’ve got 4 cars and it’s getting out of hand. Really I should sell the clio, stick the m3 in the garage and keep driving the shitbox Mondeo. I can the use the clio sale proceeds for more shiny M3 bits. If it was like the old days where you could get a decent engine for 250 quid I’d just buy another block, swap drop the pistons in that, then fit it and punt my engine on but those days are long gone! The problem is that I’ve never driven it for almost a year now and it’s neither as fun or as fast as the M3 so doesn’t really have a huge amount of appeal any more.

 

[Fishfire]

I had similar thoughts about getting another engine to tinker with but £500 seems to be about the lowest you'll pay now

I may well look at selling the Clio on, and get a Meg 250/265.

 

[Yarp]

Yep, that’s about the best I’ve seen them for. They all claim to have only done 80k miles too which makes me laugh.

There’s a couple things stopping me wanting to sell really. I’ve had it for about 10 years so grown used to it sitting collecting dust in the garage. I’d like to do a couple of track days this year and the Clio is a much cheaper option than taking the BM and having that s**t itself and it’ll fit on a trailer so I don’t need to drive it there and back. It’s also something a bit different. If I had another garage I’d keep it indefinitely but I could use the space.

That being said, if I could pull reasonable money for it then it would fund a supercharger kit for the BM .

 

[Fishfire]

Supercharged M3....mmmm

 

[Yarp]

I had a day off work today so spent most the day in the garage. I got the downpipe linked back up to the exhaust. I dropped the back of the subframe as it’s pretty much impossible with it in place. I then redid the oil return. I’d used a braided hose with an AN fittings and it just wasn’t sat right and had been leaking a bit. I didn’t get any pics but I’ve used a central heating fitting of all things (perfect wiggly angle), coupled with a bit of high temp silicone hose.

While the bumper was off I decided it was probably a decent time to polish the headlights. This is what it was like

I used wet and dry and went through 600 grit, then 1000, then 1600 and finished off with the DA with a bit of meguiars compound. They’ve come up unreal

One side done, one not

And the same treatment for the other side

With that done I got the oil feed back on the turbo but left all the boost pipes off. It fired straight up without any arguments . For the first time in what must nearly be a year I pulled it out the garage under its own power and got a hose on the coolant lines to flush the shitty red stuff out of them. I’ll run it to temp a few times on water to make sure it’s all out and then fill with the proper Renault stuff.

After that, I got the boost pipes back on

And then the front bumper refitted too. All that’s left is a run up to temperature to check for leaks and then it should be good to go for MOT time. It’s desperate for a polish so that might get done first. The swirls are out of control

 

[Stefan.]

Those headlights make such a difference.

Looks bloody lovely

 

[Yarp]

Still waiting on a few bits to arrive so couldn’t get anything properly done today. However, feeling motivated and having a spare hour I decided to start attacking some of the swirls in the paint. The above pics show it well, but this is the bonnet under a light

I clayed it then ran over it with the DA. There’s still some swirls left so it’ll take take another go or 3 but the initial results are cracking. I might need some more aggressive compound or it’ll take forever to do the whole car.

And a quick half and half. At least the roof is spot on cos the sofa cushions have protected it

 

[Yarp]

While the backwards half the north east was distracted watching the barcodes get humped, I had a nice peaceful afternoon.

I had it up to temp and it seemed happy enough. It was a bit steamy with it having been sat for about 14 months and had a cracking rally idle until it settled down. There were no leaks which is awesome so as soon as my new header tank turns up I’ll drop the water and put some proper type d in it

I then continued on with the machine polishing. I clayed the whole car but thought I’d stick with working on the side that’s usually against the garage wall as the rest I can work on when it’s in there. This was the result

The reflections in the black are simply stunning

I’ll have to see how it looks in direct sunlight but under the lights in the garage it’s pretty much flawless. Slowly edging towards it being back to life!

 

[Donny_Dog]

Wow. Amazing job Sir.

 

[Brigsy]

Looks well. You done well getting some sun up North, was pissing down in Redcar!

 

[Yarp]

Looks well. You done well getting some sun up North, was pissing down in Redcar!

Cheers! It was pissing it down all morning but cracking from about half 1. I’d expected to have to hide in the garage so was nice to be outside.

 

[Yarp]

I had another spare couple of hours today. Hermes have been predictably shite and lost the silicone hose I need to finish off the oil return. I spotted a split in the current one so that’s all it needs to have it running.

In the meantime I finished off the polishing. There’s still a couple of odd deeper scratches showing and under really bright light some of the swirls are still just visible, but overall it’s come up really well. The gold fleck has come out in the paint and the reflections are really good. I just need some decent wax to seal it all in and really bring out the shine

I’ve painted the front right wheel while I’ve been on too as a test at to see how it came out. Result was great so I’ll do the rest too

 

[Yarp]

A last few bits done today. I finished the oil return with the new hose. It’s got to be the most awkward thing in the world to photograph so this is as good as I could manage

I got the new header tank fitted and some proper coolant in it. The bay needs a bit of a clean

With that done I left it to run for about half an hour. The idle from cold is still shocking but once it settles after 30 seconds or so it’s fine.

It’s fresh out of 2004 on the drive today .

All I’m waiting for is the salt to wash off the roads and I’ll take it for a quick drive to Mexico for a shakedown and get a MOT booked. I would have done it today, but given it’s been rained on about 4 times in the last 6 years it’s going nowhere near salt .

 

[Yarp]

Does anyone have any tips on how to get the ring back on the fuel tank? Last time I had it off I bodged it with much success but the fuel level sensor hasn’t been sat quite right so I decided I should probably do it properly. However, can I f**k get it to go back on. The back goes down fine but the front just won’t go. I’ve got to be missing something

 

[YorkshireKyle]

Have you tried hitting it with your handbag?

 

[dann2707]

Does anyone have any tips on how to get the ring back on the fuel tank? Last time I had it off I bodged it with much success but the fuel level sensor hasn’t been sat quite right so I decided I should probably do it properly. However, can I f**k get it to go back on. The back goes down fine but the front just won’t go. I’ve got to be missing something

You need to press down on the sender whilst you do it, if you haven't already tried that mate

 

[Yarp]

Have you tried hitting it with your handbag?

Tried and failed unfortunately. I used a tampon to mop up the leaky fuel round the ring though

You need to press down on the sender whilst you do it, if you haven't already tried that mate

I’ve tried all sorts of wiggling about with no luck. The thing just will not go back on. It won’t site properly on the threads.

The ring and sender were off/out for a couple of days when I modified the sender to take the fuel return, it couldn’t have warped or anything daft like that could it?

I can see the b*****d tank getting dropped here. That’s a job I really really can’t be arsed with

 

[Sportevo8]

Hi, it depends how much fuel is in the tank, too much and the tank will distort and it will never go on. Hopefully draining it will allow the sender ring to go on,
Hope this helps, Ian

 

[Yarp]

There’s next to nothing in it now but the first time it was off it was probably half full. It must have distorted slightly, it can’t be this hard to get that ring back on normally!

I’ve ordered a proper tool for it. I’ll give that a go first but if not the tank will have to come off. I’d really like to avoid that given it means taking the exhaust off too

 

[npt]

It aligns in a certain way, with the arrows matching each other on the tank/cap, unless it is distorted it goes on easy enough usually

 

[Yarp]

It aligns in a certain way, with the arrows matching each other on the tank/cap, unless it is distorted it goes on easy enough usually

It must be distorted then because it won’t go. Normally I’d solve the issue with heat but given it’s a fuel tank that’s probably not the wisest call.

I’ll try boiling the ring in some hot water and see if that helps. If not then the only other thing I can think of is maybe trying to jack the tank to bend it back to the right shape but not sure that’ll work. If not it’s tank off which is a right pain given the exhaust is essentially one piece from the downpipe back. To get it off its subframe dropped, the worlds most awkward bolts removed and rear beam off . Given the beam has never been dropped before that’ll no doubt be a delight

 

[npt]

I doubt the tank would distort tbh, its quite a snug fif, go to a scrapyard in get a new screw bit thingy

 

[Yarp]

I doubt the tank would distort tbh, its quite a snug fif, go to a scrapyard in get a new screw bit thingy

I’ve tried that. I’m on my 3rd one

 

[npt]

Oh ffs

 

[npt]

Oh ffs try putting in not boiling but hot water for 10mins then stick it on

 

[Yarp]

No updates for a while as got distracted and forgot about the car again!

I finally sorted my fuel ring last weekend so borrowed a trade plate and took it for a spin.

I left the estate and had ALL the boost. Instantly spiked to about 18psi before I realised and let off but f**k me it was quick for those few spectacular feet . Anyway, did a spinner to come home and popped a boost pipe on the return trip.

Turns out I’d kinked the vac hose for the actuator . Easy fix, boost hose back on and all is well. Boost is a bit too low, it’s only going to about 5psi and doesn’t make the that until about 4.5k but it’s running right. I just need to tweak the pre-load on the actuator so an easy fix. Just not an easy fix for tonight cos it was hotter than the sun back there after the little run out.

Next stop: MOT

 

[Yarp]

7 months on from parking it I eventually got round to adjusting the actuator today. Mainly because I needed the gazebo from in the loft above it so had to move it to get into the loft hatch.

I took it for a drive and the boost is now spot on. Didn’t go far given the lack of tax and MOT but it’s still as hilarious as ever.

It definitely needs the NSF looking at cos it had a mind of its own under load on a roundabout. No doubt it’ll be a track rod end or ball joint so a nice easy one.

MOT is actually booked for a fortnights time. Once that’s done I’ll probably stick it up for sale. It’s a right laugh but it’s done about 30 miles in the 2.5 years since I got the M3 .

 

[npt]

I dontbknow why you don't spend one weekend getting it all set up correctly, with all the little bits finished then just use it for a year or so, you haven't enjoyed the thing yet, get the geo set up, stick it in for tuning and get ready to enjoy the summer at least, garage that m3 for a while

 

[Yarp]

I dontbknow why you don't spend one weekend getting it all set up correctly, with all the little bits finished then just use it for a year or so, you haven't enjoyed the thing yet, get the geo set up, stick it in for tuning and get ready to enjoy the summer at least, garage that m3 for a while

You make a good point. However, I’m currently working 60+ hour weeks, studying for a Masters and juggling all that with trying to spend time with my 4 year old. It’s the car that loses every time .

When I first turbo’d it, it got loads of use. It’s done just under 5k including a good few months of daily use. I’d be off up over hartside pass and pissing about up in the moors most weekends when it was first done. In some ways with the noise and silliness it’s more fun than the m3. It’s a bit slower too, so also much less license losey which is a positive .

We’ll see come MOT time, I’ll run it for a bit and see how it goes!