Clio 182 Turbo

[Bleu]

Looks great as it is. No need to ruin it!

 

[JimF]

If you want to mod it, go for it. You can always take the bits off if you're not keen. It's not like you're putting chameleon wrap on the screen and eBay canards on the bumper.

 

[Yarp]

If you want to mod it, go for it. You can always take the bits off if you're not keen. It's not like you're putting chameleon wrap on the screen and eBay canards on the bumper.

Yeah, this is true. I put black grilles on my last few and I do like them.

I’m just not sure about a splitter, I think it might look stupid with one at standard height. The are cheap enough though and would cover the damage to the bottom edge where I turned a hare into red mist a few weeks back.

 

[Yarp]

Nothing too much exciting today. I need a few more bits to build the engine and just haven’t pulled my finger out to order them so had a look at the engine bay.

There are a few bits with some rust showing so thought I’d tackle them with a wire wheel to see where I’m at. The plan is to clean the bay as best I can and then paint it up. I will say I’m not remotely bothered about it being perfect, but it really makes sense to get it as good as I can when the engine is out and it’s easy access. It’ll hopefully keep this end rust free ish for a good while longer.

First step was a clean of the engine bay. Totally pointless pic because it’s black and doesn’t photograph well. The more eagle eyed viewers will see where I’ve bashed the bulkhead a bit above where the scuttle drain comes out. The turbo hits there, so I’ll be bashing that a hell of a lot more now the engine isn’t in the way and I’ve got room to swing a hammer. It’ll be hidden by heat shield so no need for it to be pretty.

I also spotted that the wiring loom that goes to the brake fluid reservoir and driver side front ABS sensor has been a bit melted. That probably explains the ever present ABS fault I’ve had, despite replacing every sensor and ring 🤣

Next was just a couple of obvious areas to see how easily they cleaned up. The answer was very easily. I’ve given them a quick coat of rust proof stuff just for now. Pics below are under driver’s engine mount and where the slam panel mounts.

The only bits that are slightly more concerning are the chassis legs. This is the driver side, the passenger is much better

It was wet from where I’d washed it, but after a very quick blast I think this will come up ok too. I need to be sat in the engine bay to do it, but it was too wet and dark tonight.

I think once this is done and the engine back in, I’ll slowly work my way backwards along the rest of the underside. The rear beam looks like it’s been in the sea. The jacking points are knackered and may need a bit of welding but that’s a job for a different day.

Irritatingly Halfords have changed all their paint stuff round too. Instead of buying a can of “Renault Black Gold Metallic” I now need to buy a can with a code that apparently is the right colour. In the process they now no longer stock BG. I also couldn’t see Rover anthracite grey which is the same colour as the wheels. Bit of a shitter as now I’ll have to apply some basic level of thought as to where I get the paint from.

 

[Speedo Gonzales]

See if hycote do a black gold can

I stocked up on Monaco blue years ago because they threatened to stop making all the old Renault stuff

 

[Yarp]

See if hycote do a black gold can

I stocked up on Monaco blue years ago because they threatened to stop making all the old Renault stuff

Good should that. I’ll see if I can find some.

If not there’s a place called auto panels in Birtley that’s only a couple of mins away from me. They mix paints and do it with the little chart thing so the colour match is normally decent.

It’s just a chew on not being able to grab a tin off a shelf.

 

[Speedo Gonzales]

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Auto paints have always been reasonably decent from mates that have used their cans

 

[Louis]

Nothing too much exciting today. I need a few more bits to build the engine and just haven’t pulled my finger out to order them so had a look at the engine bay.

There are a few bits with some rust showing so thought I’d tackle them with a wire wheel to see where I’m at. The plan is to clean the bay as best I can and then paint it up. I will say I’m not remotely bothered about it being perfect, but it really makes sense to get it as good as I can when the engine is out and it’s easy access. It’ll hopefully keep this end rust free ish for a good while longer.

First step was a clean of the engine bay. Totally pointless pic because it’s black and doesn’t photograph well. The more eagle eyed viewers will see where I’ve bashed the bulkhead a bit above where the scuttle drain comes out. The turbo hits there, so I’ll be bashing that a hell of a lot more now the engine isn’t in the way and I’ve got room to swing a hammer. It’ll be hidden by heat shield so no need for it to be pretty.

I also spotted that the wiring loom that goes to the brake fluid reservoir and driver side front ABS sensor has been a bit melted. That probably explains the ever present ABS fault I’ve had, despite replacing every sensor and ring 🤣

View attachment 1767020

Next was just a couple of obvious areas to see how easily they cleaned up. The answer was very easily. I’ve given them a quick coat of rust proof stuff just for now. Pics below are under driver’s engine mount and where the slam panel mounts.
View attachment 1767021
View attachment 1767022
View attachment 1767023
View attachment 1767024
View attachment 1767025
View attachment 1767026

The only bits that are slightly more concerning are the chassis legs. This is the driver side, the passenger is much better
View attachment 1767027

It was wet from where I’d washed it, but after a very quick blast I think this will come up ok too. I need to be sat in the engine bay to do it, but it was too wet and dark tonight.
View attachment 1767028

I think once this is done and the engine back in, I’ll slowly work my way backwards along the rest of the underside. The rear beam looks like it’s been in the sea. The jacking points are knackered and may need a bit of welding but that’s a job for a different day.

Irritatingly Halfords have changed all their paint stuff round too. Instead of buying a can of “Renault Black Gold Metallic” I now need to buy a can with a code that apparently is the right colour. In the process they now no longer stock BG. I also couldn’t see Rover anthracite grey which is the same colour as the wheels. Bit of a shitter as now I’ll have to apply some basic level of thought as to where I get the paint from.

How much do ya need? Think I've a can.

Maybe.

 

[Yarp]

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Auto paints have always been reasonably decent from mates that have used their cans

I might just order that, easier than having to haul my carcass out the car at the shop 🤣

How much do ya need? Think I've a can.

Maybe.

At this stage not much at all, a can will probably do. Although the s**t paint job with primer showing all over the bay is going to get to me and need dealt with so could end up a bit out of hand.

 

[Yarp]

More rust attacking/bay tidying today.

Still not found anything too scary but the passenger side chassis leg took some cleaning up. The inner wing on the drivers side around where the arch liner should clip was pretty spicy too. I think any longer and it would have needed cut out and replaced.

Rust treatment on driver side

Back of crash bar

Passenger side

That came up ok ish

Driver side looked good after a coat of rust eating stuff.

I gave that a very quick dust of rust proof primer

The rust stuff on the passenger side wasn’t quite dry enough for paint so I’ll do that tomorrow.

 

[Yarp]

I’ve done a search but got conflicting results. Does anyone have info for:

Meg 250/2x5 piston ring gap
Meg 250/2x5 rod bearing torque and sequence
Meg 250/2x5 rod bearing clearance
F4R head bolt torque and sequence

Thanks in advance!

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

I’ve done a search but got conflicting results. Does anyone have info for:

Meg 250/2x5 piston ring gap
Meg 250/2x5 rod bearing torque and sequence
Meg 250/2x5 rod bearing clearance
F4R head bolt torque and sequence

Thanks in advance!

For the head bolts it's 20Nm from the middle outwards. Usually do the first 20Nm and let it settle for a bit and then recheck. Then do 180° if you haven't got a torque angle wrench.

 

[Yarp]

For the head bolts it's 20Nm from the middle outwards. Usually do the first 20Nm and let it settle for a bit and then recheck. Then do 180° if you haven't got a torque angle wrench.

View attachment 1768226

Awesome. I’ve got an angle wrench so can do that 👍

Upper gaps (using same ring) I’ve got

1- 0.3mm, 2- 0.43mm, 3- 0.40mm, 4- 0.31mm

The 2 central notes have the drill mark in the head so are the bigger 2.

Are the pistons makes B or C the bigger ones? They seem so close I can’t tell the difference and the vernier callipers don’t go to enough decimal places to tell the difference.

 

[MAXRUNDOWN]

C pistons are the bigger ones.

Those ring gaps are a bit tight for forced induction, I'd be aiming for .45 for the top ring and .54 for the second ring.. I'd always err on the side of caution with ring gaps, nobody will ever know if they're slightly over, but everyone will know if they're too tight and you knock a ring land off.

ARP rod bolt torque is 44ft/lb (60nm) using the ARP lube.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Awesome. I’ve got an angle wrench so can do that 👍

Upper gaps (using same ring) I’ve got

1- 0.3mm, 2- 0.43mm, 3- 0.40mm, 4- 0.31mm

The 2 central notes have the drill mark in the head so are the bigger 2.

Are the pistons makes B or C the bigger ones? They seem so close I can’t tell the difference and the vernier callipers don’t go to enough decimal places to tell the difference.

Not sure on ring specs, I'll see if I've got any documentation on it.

 

[Yarp]

C pistons are the bigger ones.

Those ring gaps are a bit tight for forced induction, I'd be aiming for .45 for the top ring and .54 for the second ring.. I'd always err on the side of caution with ring gaps, nobody will ever know if they're slightly over, but everyone will know if they're too tight and you knock a ring land off.

ARP rod bolt torque is 44ft/lb (60nm) using the ARP lube.

Legend, ta!

Having a bit mooch online, that sounds right and you make a very good point about the ringlands. I’ll file them down and get them to that. The lower ones are all measuring around .50 so much closer, although the are easier to measure with them being a bit thicker and staying in place more easily.

I’ve eventually found the table below which sits nicely with the above. I’ve gone .45 as suggested for top, I’ve got .55 in the middle and the oil ring was .6 out of the box so fine with that.

I did go to put some of this into action but dropped my torque wrench and it literally exploded. The top popped off and all the important bits in the middle decided to missile around the garage. That put an end to that but I’ve ordered a new one from Halfords to pick up at work tomorrow. I’ve had the old one for years and I’m sure it was under 50 quid. The smaller one now that does 20nm to 100nm is 100 quid on trade. Needs must though!

With that out the window I decided that I would ruin the 5 series after all. I got a 36 quid front splitter off flea bay. This is without doubt the best fitting bit of car I’ve ever got off eBay. The alignment is perfect around the fogs and underneath, and it mounts using a few of the OEM screws for the bumper. I think it looks canny. Next door being for sale and empty remains useful for additional parking!

 

[Yarp]

Armed with my new torque wrench I decided to fit the pistons tonight. Got to say, I hate the new design compared to the scrolling numbers on my old one.

Anyway, checked the ring measurements one last time for good look. 0.43, 0.55 and 0.6 was the result. Although the oil rings are a nightmare to measure with how thin they are so that could be +/- a little bit.

I aligned the rings, compressed it and tapped it into the bore. That’s it sat waaaaaay down there

I put the new bearings in, a dob of plastigauge and went to torque up. Didn’t get far as the dickhead ARP bolts are 3/8ths 12 sided. Ideal. I’ve got a 6 sided but not a 12 sided. I gently nipped it with a 10mm and will have to see if I can find a 3/8ths 12 sider from somewhere tomorrow. I’ve got Halfords, tool station and screwfix within half a mile of work so hopefully one of them will have one.

Plans abandoned for tonight and this is how I’ve left it. I’m using the old ARP bolts to check and will use the new ones for final torque down.

 

[Speedo Gonzales]

ARP bolts are reusable

Also, you should have bought yourself some 12 point sockets Steve, that was silly of you👀🤣

 

[Yarp]

ARP bolts are reusable

Also, you should have bought yourself some 12 point sockets Steve, that was silly of you👀🤣

Aye, but I’ve bought new ones so I’ve made my bed and lying in it. Although with the teeniest bit of attention to detail I would have noticed them in the rod caps and not bought them again.

I’ve got plenty of 12 point sockets and I hate the b*****d things - pretty much every set other than impact insists on using them now. Unfortunately they are just metric ones like a normal person who isn’t in the US and didn’t start collecting tools in 1954 would have 🤣. There’s no finer way to round a tight bolt than with a 12 point. Just Sod’s Law that the stuff I want as 6 point is 12 and vice versa.

 

[Brigsy]

Good old yank imperial fasteners. Arp are always a pain.