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Detailing Chat & Questions Thread

gally said:
Great for decontamination or glazing etc but not really for correction work. I like them. Useful tools.
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Mine managed just fine on my E92


Not as quick as the newer ones no doubt but seeing as I've had it for longer than the Megane I'll make do with what I have [emoji23]
 
Impressed by the C2V3 I applied over the Harly wax. Plenty of dust and a couple of bird missiles nearly all slipped off with the short rain we had earlier. Hope its durable!
 
-Jamie- said:
Mine managed just fine on my E92


Not as quick as the newer ones no doubt but seeing as I've had it for longer than the Megane I'll make do with what I have [emoji23]
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You fully corrected a BMW with a das 6 pro?
 
Sidnancy said:
Can I ask why you asked this? Would it be difficult to do?
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Correcting a BMW or clio using an old school DA isn’t something for the sensible. However if you already have one, crack on, just don’t buy one for genuine correction work. It shows again slight lack of research because for another couple of quid you can have a modern one that is genuinely correcting and helping you.

i just dont want someone spending money on a machine that was released before i started “detailing” 12 years ago. Prices aren’t different enough to justify.
 
Not an expert on this. But a decent machine (das) and a good pad (uro or similar) and you will get a decent finish.
 
gally said:
Correcting a BMW or clio using an old school DA isn’t something for the sensible. However if you already have one, crack on, just don’t buy one for genuine correction work. It shows again slight lack of research because for another couple of quid you can have a modern one that is genuinely correcting and helping you.

i just dont want someone spending money on a machine that was released before i started “detailing” 12 years ago. Prices aren’t different enough to justify.
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For sure, I wouldn't say the old school ones are amazing machines by today's standards, I'd like one of the newer models but to be totally honest I only done the correction out of boredom. Detailing doesn't interest me a huge amount these days, Rather pay someone or be happy that my quick washes will incur some damage but not enough to upset me as the cars there for driving [emoji1787]
 
If I had a das6 pro and wasn't changing or moving my game on I wouldn't bother buying another either. If I was buying a machine in 2020 I wouldn't but a decade old machine for £90. f**k my 3m rotary cost me £120 years ago and it was the world's lightest rotary polisher.
 
Hold the phone here guys. We are directly comparing buying a £90 das6 polisher. Again a machine over a decade old. Vs a new. Brand new das6 V2 for £90.

I've given up. Crack on chaps.
 
Yeah, sadly and unfortunately detailing is full of folk who say one product is incredible and then something comes out a week later and the original amazing product is now a load of crap.

My £30 DA on my 182 after an ipa wipedown 👍🏻👍🏻

Absolutely no where near a pro I'm the complete opposite

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I know you lot mentions the G-techniq C2v3 quit a lot, and on my last detailing order i was tempted to get a bottle but didn't in the end.

On my Fiesta it's covered about 2200 miles and , i've done my hardest to wash my car safe wash as possible.

For the C2v3 , i do know it's a spray on wipe off method, it wont be clayed or hand polished or even machine polished my car. It will however be washed and decon'd with Tar remover and Iron Fallout Remover. Would that be ok to use the C2v3? If you can put it on without polishing it that will do me.

How long do you have to leave the C2v3 on for before wiping it, just a minute or two? Also do you have to leave it to cure like overnight or does it cure within an hour or so?
 
Geddes said:
I know you lot mentions the G-techniq C2v3 quit a lot, and on my last detailing order i was tempted to get a bottle but didn't in the end.

On my Fiesta it's covered about 2200 miles and , i've done my hardest to wash my car safe wash as possible.

For the C2v3 , i do know it's a spray on wipe off method, it wont be clayed or hand polished or even machine polished my car. It will however be washed and decon'd with Tar remover and Iron Fallout Remover. Would that be ok to use the C2v3? If you can put it on without polishing it that will do me.

How long do you have to leave the C2v3 on for before wiping it, just a minute or two? Also do you have to leave it to cure like overnight or does it cure within an hour or so?
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Wipe on and straight off same as you would a QD.
 
Is the C2v3 just a cut down version of say higher spec coating? It say it offers protection from dirt and UV, does it have some form of protection from swirl marks when you wash your car?
 
Geddes said:
Is the C2v3 just a cut down version of say higher spec coating? It say it offers protection from dirt and UV, does it have some form of protection from swirl marks when you wash your car?
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Do any coatings offer swirl protection?

It’s just a spray coating with great water repellency and UV protection. Durability is up to 6 months. It lasts but the shine tails off quickly (looks great when first applied) I tend to reapply it every 3-4 wash as it’s as quick and simple to apply than QD.
 
Al_G said:
Do any coatings offer swirl protection?

It’s just a spray coating with great water repellency and UV protection. Durability is up to 6 months. It lasts but the shine tails off quickly (looks great when first applied) I tend to reapply it every 3-4 wash as it’s as quick and simple to apply than QD.
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As far as i know, there's a few different types of ceramic coatings, some offer exrtra hardness which helps / prevents swirls when washing your car, I'm not sure if this is a base layer or what. I don't know much about coatings like so i could be wrong.

I might and start at looking at getting the car PPF'd other than getting it coated.
 
Geddes said:
As far as i know, there's a few different types of ceramic coatings, some offer exrtra hardness which helps / prevents swirls when washing your car, I'm not sure if this is a base layer or what. I don't know much about coatings like so i could be wrong.

I might and start at looking at getting the car PPF'd other than getting it coated.
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My professional detailer who applied GEN3 glass coat to my S2000 told me it’s been known for minor imperfections to be on the coatings alone but let’s be honest, coatings are so thin it’ll only be the lightest of marks. Only PPF offers a level of protection but then we’ll fitted, quality PPF costs as much as a respray and can’t be maintained like clear coat etc. PPF can look terrible after a couple of years worth of washing etc.
 
Lots of coatings protect the surface as it's a second lacquer. Gen3 is a basic ceramic coating. Think dealership level coatings.

Fenylab even have healing ones. I've had lots of experience with them and they definitely help against marring etc and keep cars cleaner for longer. This is real world experience.
 
Al_G said:
My professional detailer who applied GEN3 glass coat to my S2000 told me it’s been known for minor imperfections to be on the coatings alone but let’s be honest, coatings are so thin it’ll only be the lightest of marks. Only PPF offers a level of protection but then we’ll fitted, quality PPF costs as much as a respray and can’t be maintained like clear coat etc. PPF can look terrible after a couple of years worth of washing etc.
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I didn't realise that to be fair
 
I've finally finished the Clio and put her all back together, various machines with a combination of Lake Country HD orbital pads and yellow and white rupes pads. Scholl S17, S30 and rupes yellow and white.

Finished off with two coats of Raceglaze Black Label and Waxaddict Slicks on the tyres.

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f**k me that is slick. Genuinely think black label is my favourite wax. No gimmicks really. High carnauba content and a pleasure to use and own.

One that can justify the price tags to me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MLB
Thanks Gally, I agree, it's an expensive wax but really does justify the price tag.

I've been lucky enough to have been able to try a couple of higher end waxes as a amateur detailer/weekend warrior and this together with Zymöl Glasur is my favorite wax by far!
 
MLB said:
Thanks Gally, I agree, it's an expensive wax but really does justify the price tag.

I've been lucky enough to have been able to try a couple of higher end waxes as a amateur detailer/weekend warrior and this together with Zymöl Glasur is my favorite wax by far!
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It's that feeling on boutique that waxes can give. I've been in the presence of some amazing waxes. I've made my own even (it's on here somewhere) Glasur actually offers more than its expensive brothers. It's why it's so good. carbon also very underrated.

But black label felt like it justified the price to me.
 
Need a kit refresh so looking for recommendations.

Shampoo
Tar Remover - Would get Autosmart Tardis but never trust the online sellers on ebay etc.
Tyre Shine - Thinking CarPro Perl so I can use it on plastics as well.
Wheel Cleaner
Wash Mitt
Drying Towel
Exhaust Cleaner - Britemax Twins?
 
Lots and lots and lots to choose.

Adams shampoo.
TARDIS
Wheel cleaner. Unless really dirty they just shampoo.
Wash mitt. Noodle type one suggested by forensic detailing.
Kent drying towel.
 
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