Fitting exhaust?

[Longy]

I've got my Milltek coming next week and I might try and fit myself.

Not done much mechanic work myself except for changing brake pads and discs etc.

Is it easy to do? it looks simple enough? What equipment would I need? I got a socket set and a pair of axle stands etc.

Will I need gaskets? certain paste for the joins? new clamps?

Removing the old one do I need to support the CAT with a jack?

What if the old one is seized a good un? I aint got cutting gear?

cheers for any feedback - I'd like to save myself £40-£50

 

[Henry]

haven't changed the Clio's exhaust yet (got it to do next week) but it doesn't look out of the ordinary to me.

something along these lines: put the front up on stands and remove the back box first, then the centre section (which is still supported by a mounting rubber). don't know if the cat will then need supporting but a simple (and stable) block of wood would do if it does. might need penetrating fluid+time if nuts&bolts are seized/corroded.

it's a good idea to use new hangers but you might get away with reusing your old ones if they're not too cracked/stretched. there's a thread on the go at the moment about how to improve the (crap) rear mount which has got to be a good idea.

u-bolt clamps are ok but you need to be sure that they're the correct size (anything that's even a couple of mm too big will oval the pipes as you tighten them. the lower part of the clamp can also cut into the pipes if you tighten them too much and/or you're constantly removing the system - for whatever reason). even pressure clamps like those sold by Mikalor or Norma are much better IMO but they're comparatively expensive.

trial fit the new system without gaskets (is there one at the cat flange?) or paste first; fit it from the front to the back (ie. reverse order to removal). nip the clamps up *slightly* so that you can still move the system about, then make sure that it can be positioned to sit as it should (especially back box) and that it's not too close to the exhaust tunnel or anything else it might knock against.

once you're sure it's going to be a good fit, take it off and put it all back together with your gasket and paste - obviously taking care to ensure it's properly aligned before tightening everything.

run the car for a few days - the paste will harden fairly quickly but you need the time to make sure you're happy with the fit (start over again if not), then nip up all of the nuts/bolts again (they'll have slackened due to expansion/contraction with heat).

bosh! - ?

 

[SBV116]

Mr Longy,

right, first problem you may have is removing the old one, if you intending to keep it in one piece, you have to undo the bottom shocker bolts, drop the springs out and jack the body up high!

Also advisable to remove the rear bumper, as they can be a tight squeeze!

Need a new clamp for beetween the cat / centre section.

Milltek should come with everyting else, bit of exhaust paste for the joints.

Also advisable to get 2 new rear mounts, as they are nearly always shagged!

 

[Martin_172]

unbolt the backbox and pull it off.

unbolt the 2 13mm bolts at the cat, remove the centre section and backbox from the car

new 1 if its brand new will come with all clamps and fittings, only thing id get is a tube of exhaust assembly paste and possibly a rear exhaust mount if its shagged (might as well change the centre mount too)

 

[Henry]

Mr Longy,

right, first problem you may have is removing the old one, if you intending to keep it in one piece, you have to undo the bottom shocker bolts, drop the springs out and jack the body up high!

Also advisable to remove the rear bumper, as they can be a tight squeeze!

don't fancy the sound of that:dead:
is there really that little room around the back box and could you not just jack up the rear to remove the back box first?

 

[jack_davey]

you will have a job removing the back box seperately as the back box and centre pipe are one piece, as said before you can drop the rear axle down by unbolting the rear dampers, or cut it. Unbolting the rear axle is probably safer as there is less risk of damaging the car with an angle grinder or chucking sparks around near the fuel tank.
Oh and you will need a new cat/centre pipe clamp, as the renault ones are pants!

 

[Martin_172]

sorry i was thinking 172 there!

 

[kevinhall]

Not too hard a job but it does take some time! You'll need at least two people.

Quite hard to get the back high enough. You have to put the axle stands on the standard jacking points as you can't use the rear beam for obvious reasons. My jack didn't go high enough so had to create a stand for it on slabs.

Once up the clamp from the cat to the exhaust is a bugger to get off. I ended up bending mine so might be best to have a new one ready. I took the cat off as well but guess you would need to support this if you weren't.

I got the old exhaust off without dropping the rear beam. Took off the bumper, exhaust mounts, heat shielding and passenger side rear wheel and just had enough room to manouver the exhaust over the beam. It is exceptionally tight though.

At least getting the new one on is an easy job!

 

[JonC]

I recently upgraded to a Scorpion RS192 exhaust which is similar to the Miltek. I did a guide which might help:

http://cliotrophy.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=5723

 

[Longy]

Cheers for all the info!

 

[msa197]

Changed mine in the drive, using axle stands and a hack saw, cut the exhaust near to the bend so I could fit the exhaust beck on the car if needed.

Took about 30 mins to cut it off then 20 mins to fit it and line it all up.