Have I bitten off more than I can chew? (new 172/dephaser content!)

[Budgie]

Well after a little bit more driving with some fresh fuel it is running a lot better, no stuttering or flashing eml lamps. However it does seem to have a slight hesitation above 3.5-4k rpm and the power drops off a little, doesn't do it all the time it seems worse when it's warm and the dephaser pulley is rattling!

While I've got the engine apart I'd like to check and clean the injectors, if their resistance readings are in spec is there any other servicing I can do to them diy? Would it be worth sending them off to be cleaned by a pro? Will do hot and cold compression checks before taking the engine out too
Probably going to fit new ignition leads at the same time as new plugs, surprised at the cost of Magnecor ones though, I've already spent a lot of wedge on parts so as I'm changing leads as a precaution more than anything I'm reluctant to spend 90 quid on top!
Theres MLR high performance 8mm silicone ones on eBay for half the price, anyone had any bad experiences with these?

Don't bother with new leads - they either work or they don't...

Injector- my bet is it doesn't like the stale fuel. Put a few tanks of decent stuff through and see if it clears up, if not, second hand injectors are only £15 each.

Genuine tools only - the laser ones bend.

Quickshift - avoid IMO. The synchro's are soft enough in the box (don't rush your shifts or you'll get crunching at high revs which means box rebuild). New polybushed dogbone mount will improve it a bit, but otherwise it's one of the weakspots of the car.

Oh, and BTW, when you do the clutch, go with a Valeo one and you'll never have to worry about it again. Strongest part of a 172 on standard power.

 

[bloke]

just bin the injectors and throw new in for the price of them.
leads genuine renault.
new lambda.

 

[Brendan2234]

Well it's pulling harder by the day now so I've got more confidence in the engine!

However I've got a slight crunch changing into third at high revs. (6k+) what are the chances of an oil change improving this? I'm thinking I might change the oil before doing anything else, then if it's still not any better I suppose I need to decide whether I want to chance a second hand lower mileage box or pay through the nose and get it rebuilt.

Can anyone recommend a gearbox specialist in North Wales that could do the work?

This car is turning out to be less of a bargain every time I drive it :-(

 

[JamesBryan]

Box oil won't change it, it'll still crunch.

 

[leeds2592]

Definitely won't harm though.

 

[Darren S]

Oh, and if you've got the engine out, i'd be changing the steering rack bushes if they've never been done. Access is 100x easier with an empty engine bay.

Probably what's started to creak on mine in this last week or so. I'll get them done at the next service along with the TREs and ball-joints. Just a shame there's no urgency for the engine to come out!

 

[Brendan2234]

Bit of an update, have tried for several days now to get the gearbox to crunch into third and its not done it since. I'm going to put the time it did happen down to a combination of me being ham fisted and old oil, worn dogbone mounts and bushes. I've ordered the bush that goes on the gearbox end from RPD, but not sure what I need to replace on the selector rod and gearstick end? I'd like to keep it Oem and cheap, would rather stay away from stiff shifts and shorter throw quickshifts for now.
So hopefully with new mounts, good quality oil and the linkage free of play the crunch won't be an issue. I checked and my gearbox doesn't have the speedo drive in it, so does that mean it's a jc5130 and will it have the bolted diff?

One other question, the car is far too quiet and as I've got a friendly mot tester I'm debating decatting it on the cheap by knocking the innards out. Will this throw up an EML for the second lambda? If so do I need it sleeving or can it just be disconnected?

 

[bloke]

Will bring eml on but will still run fine.