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Help, I’m Cold!





Is it likely that Ill need to re-wire the connector? It looks like it may have overheated a bit but I cant tell if its just its age. Any idea how much that kit costs? How can you tell if any of the components are in bad condition (because the resistor just looks old and the connector looks a bit... used!)?

Cheers Bob, I really would be in the dark without someone in the know!

Andi
 
  Corsa 1.3 CDTI


Clio_racer, The resistor pack in the wifes old metro was like that and I started to pull it apart and found it fell apart easily. The resistor was rusted and the wires inside where rusty not allowing for a current to flow across them. You shoule be able to by the new resistor from Renault and clean up the old wiring loom connections with a bit of sandpaper and wd40.



To test to see if it is the resistor you can do this simple fix.

1. There is going to be a live feed into the resistor (Common Feed)

2. Pull each wire off in turn and hold it on the common feed.

3. As you do this get a friend to put the fan on each setting in turn and at least one of the settings will make the fan run on full.

4. Do this in turn with each wire remembering where the wires go on the resistor again.

5. If all the wires test OK the resistor is at fault if not there is another problem other than the resistor.

By connecting the wires straight to the live feed you are bypassing the resistor and making the fan run on full speed so if this works you know the resistor is bugger.
 
  Clio II 1.4 Priveleg


The tell tale signs of bad connections to the plug is the that the plastic around the terminals melts and the terminals would appear black. If the plastic hasnt melted and the terminals are a silver colour, then its probably the thermal link that has blown. Its the tiny silver blob about the size of a peabug inside the cage. Bridge it with a bit of wire (as a temp solution to see if the fan now works on all speeds. I will find out the cost of the kit and post it tomorrow.

Cheers

Bob RTE
 
  Clio II 1.4 Priveleg


One other point, there are only four wires in the plug and no common live feed.

1 wire is the earth and the others are for the different speeds.

If you use a multimeter or test lamp, turn the fan to speed 1 and find if you have 12v or the test lamp illuminates to one of the wires. Try then in turn.

Repeat the process for the other 2 speeds.

If you find voltage at all 3 wires, then the heater control is working OK

This test should also be carried out with the plug connected as well.

If you do not get a feed when connected then there is a high resistance somewhere in the line, but I doubt it. 99 times its the resistor. I have changed loads of them and repaired many plugs. Been doing this job for 27 years and still love it!
 


Cheers bob, nice one for the help. As my water temp gets up to a decent temp all the time, Im going tpo stick to my original belifes, and what my local garage told me, my thermostat is fine i just have a blocked heater matrix.

Why its blocked is still beyond me!? but the matrix has been rinsed out and its only made a slight improvement, A word of warning to those with similar problem, if you use some thing like radflush you might make the heater leak them youll definately have to replace it! ive only had mine flushed out with with water i dont dare use anything too violent!
 


Cheers Bob, but all the stuff youre saying is way beyond my understanding. Is it just safer to replace the parts and if so which because when I mess with electrics I always get shocked, it really hurt last time, I had a hole in my finger.

The plastic look around it looks a bit melted but the terminals dont look too bad (from what I remember only two looked melted, diagonally opposed) and as you said the resistor looked a bit rusty. I might nip down the scrappy and get a new resistor I just dont wanna mess with the terminals because thats gonna require some soldering isnt it?

I might ask Renault how much they want for doing it, if not them, the local garage. It all sounds a bit Im gonna blow my car up.

Andi
 


If your blower will only operate on certain speeds, its highly likely that your blower matrix
has gone. This is a matrix of resistors that decide how fast the blower motor runs. The
matrix is protected by a themal fuse, which blows if the resistors get too hot (which they occassionally
so, especially on older cars). You have 2 options -

1. Replace the matrix (dealer only part, i think about £25)
2. Replace the thermal fuse (40p from maplins)

Obviously, you cant solder the new thermal fuse in, so youll have to remove the old one
and recrimp the new one in.

The matrix is in the engine compartment, just below the drivers wiper arm (behind the wiper
motor). Its not too bad to get at, but make sure you disconnect the battery before
poking around in there, as it will give you a nasty bite, if youre unlucky.

You wont be able to tell if the fuse has blown, as its a solid component between the spring
resistors, just trust me that its blown.

If you can use an ohmeter, you can test it. If anyone needs anymore info, let me know


If your blower will only operate on certain speeds, its highly likely that your blower matrix has gone. This is a matrix of resistors that decide how fast the blower motor runs. The matrix is protected by a themal fuse, which blows if the resistors get too hot (which they occassionally
so, especially on older cars). You have 2 options -

1. Replace the matrix (dealer only part, i think about £25)
2. Replace the thermal fuse (40p from maplins)

Obviously, you cant solder the new thermal fuse in, so youll have to remove the old one and recrimp the new one in.

The matrix is in the engine compartment, just below the drivers wiper arm (behind the wiper motor). Its not too bad to get at, but make sure you disconnect the battery before poking around in there, as it will give you a nasty bite, if youre unlucky.

You wont be able to tell if the fuse has blown, as its a solid component between the springresistors, just trust me that its blown.

If you can use an ohmeter, you can test it. If anyone needs anymore info, let me know
 
  Clio II 1.4 Priveleg


Been a very busy day for me at work and I completely forgot to look up the repair kit for the heater resistor! Hopefully, I will have time tomorrow.

Thanks to Horace - didnt know you could buy the thermal link from Maplins.

So you can teach and OLD DOG new tricks!

Laters

Bob RTE
 
  Clio II 1.4 Priveleg


SO YOU CAN TEACH AN OLD DOG NEW TRICKS!!!!!!

NIC M is also right about using a caustic cleaner - this will definately RUIN your heater matrix - leading to replacement! DONT DO IT!

Bob RTE
 


Ill have to take a picture this weekend, failing that some scanning out of the Haynes manual so someone can point me in the right direction.

I thought the bit I had to replace was the one with the black and red wire coming out of it, under the scuttle panel, attatched to the blower. The issue I thought was with the connector (with the wire) and the resistor... A bit of an *rse is this.

Cheers guys
 


clio_racer,

it is the bit with 2 wires coming out of it, (one red one black), there are 2 plastic clips holding it onto the blower (once youve removed the screws and the plug)

That is, the removable bit is the blower matrix and 2 wires coming out of it
 


Also, if youre going to replace the thermal fuse in the centre of the matrix, Id advise slightly bending the spring resistors away from it, as Bob suggests, these get hotter with age
 


Cheers for the advice, its all a bit confusing though. Ill have a look anyway. I thought the resistor was the bit that the connector (black and red wire and plug thing) connected into. Ive not even looked inside the blower matrix thing.
 


Had a look at mine today , as someone else said the two diagonal points were melted, so I got my screwdriver out and got rid of the melted pits and cleared out the plug points and put it back in and.........

Works like a charm!! For now anyway!! All the settings and everything.

Cheers Again Marcus
 


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