RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
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ilya's 172 #BECAUSE_RACE_CAR
- Thread starter RuskiWeldFab
- Start date
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- Tags
- clio 172 race car
Krarl
ClioSport Club Member
Very temptingI’ll have my quaife box for sale soon
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RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
Remember that sneaky peeky few posts up?
Well here we are! Big_bird series! Episode 1
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well here we are! Big_bird series! Episode 1
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
still December 2019 and the old engine is out!
RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
HAPPY NEW YEAR people!!!!
Jan 2020
When oem pedals just don’t cut it no more and universal pedal box don’t fit the way you want it... OBP pedal box modification. Clio race car build. pedal box flex fixed!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Jan 2020
When oem pedals just don’t cut it no more and universal pedal box don’t fit the way you want it... OBP pedal box modification. Clio race car build. pedal box flex fixed!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
Just read through the majority of this thread, love that you do almost everything yourself, loving all the fabrication. Subbed on YouTube as well, keep it up.
Thank you for the sub!
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RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
Just read through the majority of this thread, love that you do almost everything yourself, loving all the fabrication. Subbed on YouTube as well, keep it up.
Ps. It’s a little more than “almost” [emoji6][emoji14]
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RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
we are now officially in Jan 2020.
new episode is up on my youtube channel. In this episode, I am doing an easy Clio subframe modification. O2m dogbox is fatter than standard Jc5 box so subframe needs notching for the gearbox clearance. few cuts! few blows with a large hammer, a bit of paint and job is done! homemade race car build is slowly progressing.
new episode is up on my youtube channel. In this episode, I am doing an easy Clio subframe modification. O2m dogbox is fatter than standard Jc5 box so subframe needs notching for the gearbox clearance. few cuts! few blows with a large hammer, a bit of paint and job is done! homemade race car build is slowly progressing.
Krarl
ClioSport Club Member
If you've got any concern over the driveshaft space then you could just persuade it ever so slightly😂
RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
Was quite busy with work this months so progress was a bit slow.
New engine is fully assembled and slotted inside the bay including 02m box. It all fits. Just. Well I had to chop some of the firewall and remake it. But that’s a story for next month hehe.
But here is the latest episode 4.
Trigger wheel positioning saga.
Also a little Bonus material on the channel. A mate bought a scooby!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
New engine is fully assembled and slotted inside the bay including 02m box. It all fits. Just. Well I had to chop some of the firewall and remake it. But that’s a story for next month hehe.
But here is the latest episode 4.
Trigger wheel positioning saga.
Also a little Bonus material on the channel. A mate bought a scooby!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
Feb 2020
Since it’s been pointed out to me that this thread became more YouTube Chanel than a build thread, I promised to chance and will provide a bit more written details and pictures. Rather than a video.
In my last episode (4) I was battling with an external trigger wheel.
Basically my flywheel doesn’t have a trigger wheel for the crank sensor. So I have to use the external version. Bought 36-1. 150mm trigger wheel from EFI parts.
Initial idea was to weld it on to pure motorsport lightweight pulley. But after tacking it in place and having a short conversation with Chris @Efi I been convinced it’s not a good idea to use light pulley. Instead he suggested to use OEM dampened pulley and simply screw the trigger wheel to it. After all that’s what he runs on his 1000hp monster.
So that’s what I did. There was a slight wobble so I decided to make DIY large to try and balance the assembly. Personally I think it worked it treat. It’s perfectly centred now.
Next step was to make a simple bracket to hold the hall sensor in place. With 0.8mm distance from the wheel.
I used 2 unused holes on the block that I tapped to m6 and screwed on.
Than I blanked of the firewall as I am not using standart pedal assembly. 2mm ally sheet cut to size and sealed with TRV silicone.
After that Engine was put on the stand sideways ready to receive its gearbox.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Since it’s been pointed out to me that this thread became more YouTube Chanel than a build thread, I promised to chance and will provide a bit more written details and pictures. Rather than a video.
In my last episode (4) I was battling with an external trigger wheel.
Basically my flywheel doesn’t have a trigger wheel for the crank sensor. So I have to use the external version. Bought 36-1. 150mm trigger wheel from EFI parts.
Initial idea was to weld it on to pure motorsport lightweight pulley. But after tacking it in place and having a short conversation with Chris @Efi I been convinced it’s not a good idea to use light pulley. Instead he suggested to use OEM dampened pulley and simply screw the trigger wheel to it. After all that’s what he runs on his 1000hp monster.
So that’s what I did. There was a slight wobble so I decided to make DIY large to try and balance the assembly. Personally I think it worked it treat. It’s perfectly centred now.
Next step was to make a simple bracket to hold the hall sensor in place. With 0.8mm distance from the wheel.
I used 2 unused holes on the block that I tapped to m6 and screwed on.
Than I blanked of the firewall as I am not using standart pedal assembly. 2mm ally sheet cut to size and sealed with TRV silicone.
After that Engine was put on the stand sideways ready to receive its gearbox.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
March 2020
A long overdue update at last!
A lot of things have been done since the last update. where do i start?
after the trigger wheel was complete it was time to fit the gearbox on to the engine.
Just a reminder its O2m Golf GTI 6speed gearbox that has been converted to a dogbox.
mounted the adapter plate and fired the box. all fairly straight forward.
apart from one thing, my custom driveshaft on the driver's side was touching on some metal bit sticking out., so naturally, i get the tools out! 0.8 disc does easy job of it. it fits now.!
next, we slot the engine back into the engine bay. mainly because it was time and because i needed to check if manifold actually going to fit.
well, engine fits! hurray! guess what manifold doesn't. well, i was anticipating that, and again i resort to angle grinder and good old trusted 0.8mm disc.
30min later we have a good opening! Now manifold fits. but we need to close the gap now! for fire safety concerns etc.
1.2mm steel later we have all new firewalls made up and welded. rather happy about how it came out!
A long overdue update at last!
A lot of things have been done since the last update. where do i start?
after the trigger wheel was complete it was time to fit the gearbox on to the engine.
Just a reminder its O2m Golf GTI 6speed gearbox that has been converted to a dogbox.
mounted the adapter plate and fired the box. all fairly straight forward.
apart from one thing, my custom driveshaft on the driver's side was touching on some metal bit sticking out., so naturally, i get the tools out! 0.8 disc does easy job of it. it fits now.!
next, we slot the engine back into the engine bay. mainly because it was time and because i needed to check if manifold actually going to fit.
well, engine fits! hurray! guess what manifold doesn't. well, i was anticipating that, and again i resort to angle grinder and good old trusted 0.8mm disc.
30min later we have a good opening! Now manifold fits. but we need to close the gap now! for fire safety concerns etc.
1.2mm steel later we have all new firewalls made up and welded. rather happy about how it came out!
RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
Now that we have engine inside. and manifold clears the firewall, i needed to proceed with the rest of the built.
But as it happens, someone suggested i did my own engine mounts lol.
as apparently OEM mounts are week. Well, not wanting to test their theory i decided why not!
so i got myself some 4-5-6mm steel and set to work.
First, i needed to steal a good design somewhere.
The obvious choice was Pure Motorsport! their design has been tried and tested! proven to work in harsh race environment and most importantly not patiented lol.
In All fairness, i needed slightly different designs anyway so its not just a copy. i would call it a design tweak haha.
PS. if you plan on doing something like that, my advice, just go and buy them from Pure direct! its not worth the hassle! and it would cost you more in time/materials.
ask me how i know.
anyways. metal frame is self-explanatory. for the bushing, i used powerrflex black series buggy universal bushing.
But as it happens, someone suggested i did my own engine mounts lol.
as apparently OEM mounts are week. Well, not wanting to test their theory i decided why not!
so i got myself some 4-5-6mm steel and set to work.
First, i needed to steal a good design somewhere.
The obvious choice was Pure Motorsport! their design has been tried and tested! proven to work in harsh race environment and most importantly not patiented lol.
In All fairness, i needed slightly different designs anyway so its not just a copy. i would call it a design tweak haha.
PS. if you plan on doing something like that, my advice, just go and buy them from Pure direct! its not worth the hassle! and it would cost you more in time/materials.
ask me how i know.
anyways. metal frame is self-explanatory. for the bushing, i used powerrflex black series buggy universal bushing.
RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
April 2020
We are deep in the lockdown now. arent we!?
What the actual F**K is going on?
luckily i practically live inside my garage and racecars don't build themselves so apart from long delivery times on race car parts not much changed for me.
after the engine mounts. i wanted to attach most ancillaries to check for fitment. and what do you know?
intake manifold fits but there is some metal in the way in front of the throttle body.
reciprocating saw this time! yes and more welding.
inspired by big boy racecars i wanted something spaceframe ish. so had to make small support for headlight blank and bonnet catch from 16mm steel tube bent to shape. its tight but it fits!
The next task was to fit my newly acquired pedal box.
Yes, its Tilton 600 series. forward-facing master cylinders.
not much to describe here to be honest.
a bit of copping, a bit of welding, some pint, and it's complete.
the most difficult part was to figure out how to cover it all and make a worth footrest.
for weight saving most was done using aluminum.
the main plate holding the pedals is 4mm steel. not light yes! but very strong. 0 flex.
We are deep in the lockdown now. arent we!?
What the actual F**K is going on?
luckily i practically live inside my garage and racecars don't build themselves so apart from long delivery times on race car parts not much changed for me.
after the engine mounts. i wanted to attach most ancillaries to check for fitment. and what do you know?
intake manifold fits but there is some metal in the way in front of the throttle body.
reciprocating saw this time! yes and more welding.
inspired by big boy racecars i wanted something spaceframe ish. so had to make small support for headlight blank and bonnet catch from 16mm steel tube bent to shape. its tight but it fits!
The next task was to fit my newly acquired pedal box.
Yes, its Tilton 600 series. forward-facing master cylinders.
not much to describe here to be honest.
a bit of copping, a bit of welding, some pint, and it's complete.
the most difficult part was to figure out how to cover it all and make a worth footrest.
for weight saving most was done using aluminum.
the main plate holding the pedals is 4mm steel. not light yes! but very strong. 0 flex.
RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
KInda Lost track of time right about here.
is this still April? or May? nearly makes no difference all days blend into one!
next, i decided to tackle all the intercooler piping.
i couldn't keep any of the old pipework as turbo and everything else part from intercooler in a different position.
so i bought good quality tubing. 57mm various 4-5ply silicone hoses and set to work.
throttle body pipe was the easiest., literally 2 bends form a U. to that welded fake Blow off valve. Yes i know its fake! i guess this will haunt me for the rest of this month at least.
having welded Aluminum for entire day and with that much experience gained lol i decided i wanted to attempt a pie cut Intake pipe. Or as its sometimes called Lobster back.
Its not difficult no. for someone who can weld AC. i literally have done 15min of aluminum welding before so this was a challenge.
it worked out alright i think. and this is literally the best practice! almost 6m of continuous weld yes. 6m.
is this still April? or May? nearly makes no difference all days blend into one!
next, i decided to tackle all the intercooler piping.
i couldn't keep any of the old pipework as turbo and everything else part from intercooler in a different position.
so i bought good quality tubing. 57mm various 4-5ply silicone hoses and set to work.
throttle body pipe was the easiest., literally 2 bends form a U. to that welded fake Blow off valve. Yes i know its fake! i guess this will haunt me for the rest of this month at least.
having welded Aluminum for entire day and with that much experience gained lol i decided i wanted to attempt a pie cut Intake pipe. Or as its sometimes called Lobster back.
Its not difficult no. for someone who can weld AC. i literally have done 15min of aluminum welding before so this was a challenge.
it worked out alright i think. and this is literally the best practice! almost 6m of continuous weld yes. 6m.
RuskiWeldFab
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172, RS4 B7
Now we are most certainly in MAY 2020
This update is something i am rather proud of myself!
we all know how light Clios are on the rear right? and How cool the look with a bid f**k off WING on the back!
I dint want to go with usually BYC wing so i have commissioned Callan from T89 http://www.racecarwings.co.uk/index.html to make me a custom fully functioning rear wing. so after a few design ideas, we came up with this design.
Its an Eppler 241 profile which are really high lift/drag ratio. Giving numbers is a bit pointless as its affected by everything from chord length and Reynolds number to endplate design and the turbulence from the car. The L/D ratio could be completely different on 2 identical Clios if they have been mounted slightly differently. My CFD guy came up with 54:1 for this size chord but that includes no effects of endplate, mounts or turbulence from the car as all installations are different.
once i had it in my possession i proceeded to fit it.
But with a slight twist! I wanted an Active rear wing like DRS on F1 cars. so i could have the ability to lower it on the straight reducing the drag.
custom brackets and bell cranks were made from 5mm steel.
using 8 pin relay its a simple button on the steering wheel that once you press and hold, lowers the wing by 4.5deg. as soon as the button released it returns to the optimal position. actuators are 100mm throw 30mm/s. but were modifies by me to have 20mm range.
its fully adjustable. i can control speed, lift. angle etc.
It will be extensively tested at the track in the near future.
This wing design is available to purchase from http://www.racecarwings.co.uk
mention RuskiWeldShit to show appreciation if you plan to order one
This update is something i am rather proud of myself!
we all know how light Clios are on the rear right? and How cool the look with a bid f**k off WING on the back!
I dint want to go with usually BYC wing so i have commissioned Callan from T89 http://www.racecarwings.co.uk/index.html to make me a custom fully functioning rear wing. so after a few design ideas, we came up with this design.
Its an Eppler 241 profile which are really high lift/drag ratio. Giving numbers is a bit pointless as its affected by everything from chord length and Reynolds number to endplate design and the turbulence from the car. The L/D ratio could be completely different on 2 identical Clios if they have been mounted slightly differently. My CFD guy came up with 54:1 for this size chord but that includes no effects of endplate, mounts or turbulence from the car as all installations are different.
once i had it in my possession i proceeded to fit it.
But with a slight twist! I wanted an Active rear wing like DRS on F1 cars. so i could have the ability to lower it on the straight reducing the drag.
custom brackets and bell cranks were made from 5mm steel.
using 8 pin relay its a simple button on the steering wheel that once you press and hold, lowers the wing by 4.5deg. as soon as the button released it returns to the optimal position. actuators are 100mm throw 30mm/s. but were modifies by me to have 20mm range.
its fully adjustable. i can control speed, lift. angle etc.
It will be extensively tested at the track in the near future.
This wing design is available to purchase from http://www.racecarwings.co.uk
mention RuskiWeldShit to show appreciation if you plan to order one
Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
Check his youtube channel - flat floor video is on there now
