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Kangoo 182 Project



Brigsy

ClioSport Club Member
  T.Turbo
I think I will in a month or so when I have the time to start it :).

Something I’ve wondered is how to get the abs to work, does the kangoo have the same amount of teeth or do you just swap the rings over?

Fit all the clio172 stuff up front and convert the back to clio discs so abs rings wont be affected.
 
I think I will in a month or so when I have the time to start it :).

Something I’ve wondered is how to get the abs to work, does the kangoo have the same amount of teeth or do you just swap the rings over?

I used the ABS pump from the 182 and all the ABS loom from the 182, converted the rear to disc, used the 182 shafts and hubs so ABS should all work as normal.
 
I used the ABS pump from the 182 and all the ABS loom from the 182, converted the rear to disc, used the 182 shafts and hubs so ABS should all work as normal.

I see. Thanks for that :).
Did the rear hubs bolt straight on yeah?

I'll pm you if you don't want the thread cluttered, but I find chatting on threads means the info is available to anyone in the future :).
 
I see. Thanks for that :).
Did the rear hubs bolt straight on yeah?

I'll pm you if you don't want the thread cluttered, but I find chatting on threads means the info is available to anyone in the future :).

No problem and happy to share any info on the thread as I struggled to find the info so hopefully will help others.

The rear shafts are part of the axle on the Kangoo where as the Clio ones are bolted on. I used the carrier carrier from the Clio and bolt holes line up. The main issue is finding the bolts to secure these to the Kangoo as per my posts in the thread. The mk1 Clio used this set up but the bolts are no longer available from Renault. These can be purchased from some fastening companies but I was quoted over £8 per bolt each unless you order in volume. In the end Mark Fish managed to help me out with these, and supplied close to the Renault price or £4 each.
 
No problem and happy to share any info on the thread as I struggled to find the info so hopefully will help others.

The rear shafts are part of the axle on the Kangoo where as the Clio ones are bolted on. I used the carrier carrier from the Clio and bolt holes line up. The main issue is finding the bolts to secure these to the Kangoo as per my posts in the thread. The mk1 Clio used this set up but the bolts are no longer available from Renault. These can be purchased from some fastening companies but I was quoted over £8 per bolt each unless you order in volume. In the end Mark Fish managed to help me out with these, and supplied close to the Renault price or £4 each.

That’s useful information there, thanks for that.

Any updates?
 
Any updates?

Nothing much more done, had an issue with the dash loom due to a bad earth so swapped the entire dash loom, as when I did the 1st one it was a bit of trial and error. so most of Saturday was taken up removing the entire dash out for new loom to go in, but now working and even have a working stereo and heater!

Oh and.....started the engine for the 1st time!!!!! Runs fine and exhaust sounds great!
 
Over the past few weeks I have managed to Finish all the wiring on the conversion, this involved matching up the Clio looms with the Kangoo switches and lighting. A big thanks to @Brigsy for all his help and sending over plug wiring diagrams for the Kangoo.

I now have working electric windows, electric mirrors, temperature display, central locking from key and internal switch for all doors including side door, interior lights, hazard switch, front lights with height control and rare lights.

Also purchased a new aerial and blank for the steering column where the stereo remote would normally be.
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Now all the wiring has been completed I could finally fit the passengers seat, seatbelt buckles and all the trim back in.
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Then last week this happened....!
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Started the engines and smoke started pouring out of the bonnet! Quickly turned off the engine and discovered a smoking alternator. Think as it had been sat for a while it must have seized. So had to remove bonnet, grille and headlight to gain access, luckily managed to get it out without removing the bumper and front section, was tight but once I removed the fuel rail guard it came out.
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So after a hunt around I decided to go for a genuine Renault one, so quick call to Paul @RPD and the next day a shinny new alternator arrived and was fitted that evening. Old one was then returned to them for and exchange refund which I did not know they offered as not shown on there web site but this made them the cheapest place to buy from.
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Now all I have left to do is sort out bleeding the brakes as pedal feel is still not correct, have ordered a Renault Can Clip to allow me to activate the ABS pump and I can then also turn off the air bag light as don’t have any air bags fitted now.
 
So 3 weeks using this as my daily and it’s great fun to drive, had an issue with the front tyres rubbing at the front of the arch under compressing on bumpy roads and it was worse on the drivers side.
So took some measurements and found the drivers side wing needed some adjustment, took bumper off and loosened front mounting point for wing and managed to pull the wing forward, now have the same gap on both sides.

Also as a precaution I rolled the lips on both front wings. I borrowed a arch rolling tool and set to work.
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This has now cured most of the rubbing issues, still get a little bit on very bumpy roads so looking to have the front of the arches pulled out to match up with the bumpers as if you look in the photo you can see the arch dips in where it meets the bumper.

Also undesided on the bumpers, original plan was to colour code them and leave the black inserts but now I’m unsure....
 
  5Turbo, E30, Kangoo
love it, I have an 02 Kangoo 1.5 dci, I am curious to know if it would be as straight forward to do the same thing with the mk1 kangoo, does anyone know if there is much difference?
 
Not updated this for a few months...the van has had a few changes over the past months as I sold some of the track focused parts due to another project needing a cash injection.

It is now running 182 wheels and I have fitted a pair of 182 seats, 172 Cup steering wheel, 182 shifter & 182 standard front discs & calipers.
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It is now a much better for daily use to the the seats and seating height.

Now the sad part for me, due to unforeseen circumstances I am having to put the van up for sale, if anyone on here is seriously interested, please message me.
 
Not updated this for a few months...the van has had a few changes over the past months as I sold some of the track focused parts due to another project needing a cash injection.

It is now running 182 wheels and I have fitted a pair of 182 seats, 172 Cup steering wheel, 182 shifter & 182 standard front discs & calipers.
View attachment 1391468View attachment 1391469View attachment 1391470

It is now a much better for daily use to the the seats and seating height.

Now the sad part for me, due to unforeseen circumstances I am having to put the van up for sale, if anyone on here is seriously interested, please message me.
Did you keep the 15mm spacers on when you fitted the 182 wheels?
 

plees

ClioSport Club Member
  S/C Iceberg 172 Cup
Gutted you had to put it up for sale! Read through this a few times now!

In regards to the fuel tank, is there any way to keep the diesel tank by cleaning and venting? Or is it just easier to find a petrol one. Petrol kangoos are rare! @H2MRK
 
Gutted you had to put it up for sale! Read through this a few times now!

In regards to the fuel tank, is there any way to keep the diesel tank by cleaning and venting? Or is it just easier to find a petrol one. Petrol kangoos are rare! @H2MRK

Was a shame to sell it but my other project needed the funds, may build another one later this year.

Regarding fuel tank I think most people keep the original tank but I managed to pick up the petrol one for a good price and it saved me the hassle of cleaning out the diesel tank. Petrol Kangoo are not that rare as a lot of the window ones are petrol just the Panel vans are mostly diesel.
 

plees

ClioSport Club Member
  S/C Iceberg 172 Cup
Cheers! @H2MRK

Just eyeing it all up and working out what’s involved. By the looks of it finding a good clean shell is the next big hurdle ?
 
  Kangoo, XJ, Jeep GC
For those of you who have done a 1*2 swap, how many days work would you estimate it to be ?

I’m not talking about all the little jobs that you’ve done but don’t strictly need doing, but just to get the conversion done enough to start driving the van on the road again ?
 
For those of you who have done a 1*2 swap, how many days work would you estimate it to be ?

I’m not talking about all the little jobs that you’ve done but don’t strictly need doing, but just to get the conversion done enough to start driving the van on the road again ?
Depends on lots of elements, you could easily swap engine, gearbox, subframe suspension etc in a weekend, it’s the other jobs like dash & light wiring and making the exhaust that can take the time
 
  Clio 172 Track Car
Hi, I'm thinking of doing one of these, i was just wondering if you could tell me if its a matter or changing the complete wiring looms from the 172 into the van ? thanks
 
Hi, I'm thinking of doing one of these, i was just wondering if you could tell me if its a matter or changing the complete wiring looms from the 172 into the van ? thanks
Hi, yes i used the Clio 182 looms and then spliced these into the Kangoo plugs for lights & dash switches etc.
 

Trackslag172

ClioSport Club Member
  03 Clio 172
Managed to get some time to work on the van yesterday to finish a few of the little jobs, first up was to fin the 1mm thread countersunk screws for my rear disc conversion, struggled toscource these due to the fine thread but Mark Fish came to the rescue.
View attachment 1367912View attachment 1367913

Then reassemble rear disc and callipers and proceeded to bleed the brake system, only to have a massive fail due to a buggered master cylinder! Luckily I has a spare and got that swapped over and then all went ok.

Last up was to sort out why I could not select reverse with the PMS shifter, after some comparison with a Clio I worked out that the tunnel on the Kangoo is higher and was causing the linkage rod to hit the subframe. So ended up dropping the selector assembly by approx 20mm using some spacers and can now get reverse.
Managed to get some time to work on the van yesterday to finish a few of the little jobs, first up was to fin the 1mm thread countersunk screws for my rear disc conversion, struggled toscource these due to the fine thread but Mark Fish came to the rescue.
View attachment 1367912View attachment 1367913

Then reassemble rear disc and callipers and proceeded to bleed the brake system, only to have a massive fail due to a buggered master cylinder! Luckily I has a spare and got that swapped over and then all went ok.

Last up was to sort out why I could not select reverse with the PMS shifter, after some comparison with a Clio I worked out that the tunnel on the Kangoo is higher and was causing the linkage rod to hit the subframe. So ended up dropping the selector assembly by approx 20mm using some spacers and can now get reverse.

Excellent build thread mate,

You could well be my saviour here @H2MRK

I know this is a couple of years ago but I’m struggling to get the same 1mm pitch countersunk screws pictured here. I’ve emailed mark fish, no response yet, but it’s only been a day or 2.

Do you know of any other suppliers or the Renault part number??

Cheers!
 

Mickb

ClioSport Club Member
  van low and 1.6 16v
Any engineer shop would have them im sure. I've got stainless ones find them on ebay. Work fine. Or you could drill and tap it to m10
 

Trackslag172

ClioSport Club Member
  03 Clio 172
I’m planning to drill and tap to m10 this week.
Finding m8 countersunk bolts with a 1mm pitch is almost impossible.
 

Louis

I Park Like a C**t
ClioSport Club Member
What do you mean letter tampering on the plate? That is a genuine question
On first glance looked like the first letter was being made into a G or an E when it was in fact a C but it's not now I've zoomed in and it is actually a G! Just looks funny for some reason, wasnt sure if previous owner was trying to make it into initials or something
 
  106 rallye
On first glance looked like the first letter was being made into a G or an E when it was in fact a C but it's not now I've zoomed in and it is actually a G! Just looks funny for some reason, wasnt sure if previous owner was trying to make it into initials or something

I think its the angle, from straight on the screw is only just into the white but the angle exaggerates it!!
 

Louis

I Park Like a C**t
ClioSport Club Member
I think its the angle, from straight on the screw is only just into the white but the angle exaggerates it!!
Looks really weird! I keep looking at it trying to figure it out 😂 Wheres the other one on the other side?
 


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