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Kangoo Compact (aka Racevan3)
- Thread starter Brigsy
- Start date
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
I had a few messages from them asking if i would go but declined it this time. Needs fuel system doing for safety on 25psi really so needs a bit more prep for big sends currently. Also 360mile round trip for drag racing on a unprepped dragstrip, would have been more tempted if it was santa pod.
Ive seen they have started doing roll racing at santa pod, now im tempted to give that a go. Less stress on the transmission etc with no launch.
Ive seen they have started doing roll racing at santa pod, now im tempted to give that a go. Less stress on the transmission etc with no launch.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
In the quest for 500hp we have a small update.
M3rs fuel rail modified to have flow and return, and regulator on the rail removed, done by Lloyds Motorsport.
You might ask why ive done this with a couple of off the shelf billet alloy fuel rails available for m3rs. The reason why i wont use one, is they dont have injector clips, which means bodging a washer on my nice bosch injectors to stop them falling out the rail, and pissing fuel all over. Do it right, dont bodge your fuel system.
Mocked up on spare inlet.
Bang on the money.
Realistically im a few fuel pipes away from fitting, but its tank off etc. End of season project, as id like to enjoy it a bit more whilst weather is still good.
Thanks for reading
M3rs fuel rail modified to have flow and return, and regulator on the rail removed, done by Lloyds Motorsport.
You might ask why ive done this with a couple of off the shelf billet alloy fuel rails available for m3rs. The reason why i wont use one, is they dont have injector clips, which means bodging a washer on my nice bosch injectors to stop them falling out the rail, and pissing fuel all over. Do it right, dont bodge your fuel system.
Mocked up on spare inlet.
Bang on the money.
Realistically im a few fuel pipes away from fitting, but its tank off etc. End of season project, as id like to enjoy it a bit more whilst weather is still good.
Thanks for reading
Matt Cup
ClioSport Club Member
Iceberg 172 Cup
York Raceway does roll racing doesn’t it and would be far closer for you too?
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Elvington/Straightliners? I think its more top speed stuff. Expensive too but closer defo. Call me a dragracer/snob, but pod is the best track in the uk by far.
Melbourne only 1/8 mile sadly. When it was York raceway i used to go all the time. Surface was terrible, blew 2nd gear up in my extra van there due to excessive wheelspin
Matt Cup
ClioSport Club Member
Iceberg 172 Cup
Elvington/Straightliners? I think its more top speed stuff. Expensive too but closer defo. Call me a dragracer/snob, but pod is the best track in the uk by far.
Melbourne only 1/8 mile sadly. When it was York raceway i used to go all the time. Surface was terrible, blew 2nd gear up in my extra van there due to excessive wheelspin
I think I got both of those mixed up together tbh. But Melbourne rings a bell as I’m sure I’ve been there donkeys years ago didn’t realise it was only 1/8th mile and yeah I remember it being pretty bumpy no doubt you had trouble with your van lol. Elvington is where TOTB is held isn’t it?
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Melbourne did used to be 1/4 mile until it closed for a bit, then re opened with 1/8 only. I think its money that stops them doing the rest. Entrance/runoff road was rough as fcuk!
Ive not been to Elvington for years, since early TOTB days. Surface was terrible back then.
I do fancy a run on Santa pod now its concrete. The grip is supposed to be mega when prepped/using drag radials. One day in the Extra van maybe, see if i can smash my old pb. Itll prob cost me a shaft or gearbox from experience
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates, done a few bits over the weekend.
@Mcaff kindly sent a laguna gt caliper over to test, and sadly no joy. More or less fitted the same as the r26 rear caliper.
Ill shelf this upgrade for now before i have a garage full of random calipers.
Im still trying to find out a solution for harder rear springs for this and again its trial and error. I bought some bc springs 8kg at correct length so they would be seated ok with shocks on full droop. I was expecting them to compress a bit when on the deck, but they do not compress much as it turns out. This is sat with no shocks hooked up...stock rideheight almost.
The springs were cheap so not a massive loss. Ill have to investigate progressively wound or whatever. Back on the old setup for now.
I then had a look at a few smaller bits including fitting new wheel bolts as the fronts were rusty as fcuk/leaving rust stains on my white wheels.
New constant tension hose clip on turbo boost hose as it moves a little.
With jobs done, weather was good so took it for a run out and ended up in Whitby.
Note fuel gauge on its arse, regular occurance on 870cc injectors.
Whitby.
Give it a clean on return. Doesnt look too bad but was covered in birdshit/brake dust and flies all over the front, it was pretty bad before setting off but worse on return after making a bit of progress on the b roads, the wheels were hanging with brake dust.
Bilt hamber autowheel on the wheels, gets the brake dust off effortlessly. BH autofoam to pre clean
Gtechniq gwash and mitt, done
Koch Chemie protector wax spray sealant to finish.
I also done the r26 at the same time as it was covered in rubber and brake dust from Croft, both done in just over an hr. No drying required with di vessel and both nice and clean this morning.
Thanks for reading!!
@Mcaff kindly sent a laguna gt caliper over to test, and sadly no joy. More or less fitted the same as the r26 rear caliper.
Ill shelf this upgrade for now before i have a garage full of random calipers.
Im still trying to find out a solution for harder rear springs for this and again its trial and error. I bought some bc springs 8kg at correct length so they would be seated ok with shocks on full droop. I was expecting them to compress a bit when on the deck, but they do not compress much as it turns out. This is sat with no shocks hooked up...stock rideheight almost.
The springs were cheap so not a massive loss. Ill have to investigate progressively wound or whatever. Back on the old setup for now.
I then had a look at a few smaller bits including fitting new wheel bolts as the fronts were rusty as fcuk/leaving rust stains on my white wheels.
New constant tension hose clip on turbo boost hose as it moves a little.
With jobs done, weather was good so took it for a run out and ended up in Whitby.
Note fuel gauge on its arse, regular occurance on 870cc injectors.
Whitby.
Give it a clean on return. Doesnt look too bad but was covered in birdshit/brake dust and flies all over the front, it was pretty bad before setting off but worse on return after making a bit of progress on the b roads, the wheels were hanging with brake dust.
Bilt hamber autowheel on the wheels, gets the brake dust off effortlessly. BH autofoam to pre clean
Gtechniq gwash and mitt, done
Koch Chemie protector wax spray sealant to finish.
I also done the r26 at the same time as it was covered in rubber and brake dust from Croft, both done in just over an hr. No drying required with di vessel and both nice and clean this morning.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Slitter disc will sort them springs out, be fine
Was tempted, not going to lie. Had a youth of cut springs
prob fall out too easy as need 50mm or so off.Might revisit 197 aftermarket rear springs again. The rideheight was bang on with progressively wound h&r, just cant remember how long they are. The oem shocks were that long, they just fell out so binned it off.
Definitely needs an engineers touch, ill do some digging cheers mate. Beyond my backyard engineering skills
Ive currently sent the feelers out for custom rear pads.
chazza114
ClioSport Club Member
I think I have some used Eibach Pro-kit 197 rear springs sat in my shed somewhere that you're more than welcome to have if I've still got them!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
If you do that would be awesome mate
let me know and i dont mind paying for them.
chazza114
ClioSport Club Member
If I get chance this weekend I'll have a scavenge around and check, then let you knowIf you do that would be awesome mate
M2,XJS,S1000RR
Kind of….but I was just going to copy the brackets I already had not design from scratch!
.
chazza114
ClioSport Club Member
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Small job done to the Kangoo
The screen washers packed up recently. Thinking it was the washerpump failed like they always do, i fcuked about changing it. Did not work, checked all fuses etc and turned out to be the stalk at fault. It would briefly work if pulled half way into the wash wipe position. This was not suprising as its done loads of miles as a van previously and the buttons on the stalk for trip did not respond great.
Looking for a new stalk, its a combined audio stalk and seen loads of china knockoff's at half the price of 2nd hand oem. One offer came in of one for £19 delivered, if it were shite its no big loss.
Was expecting to have to remove the steering wheel but it was a simple 3 min job to fit.
Works decent being honest, better than the original delphi one. With the limited mileage this does, prob last ok.
Thanks for reading!!
The screen washers packed up recently. Thinking it was the washerpump failed like they always do, i fcuked about changing it. Did not work, checked all fuses etc and turned out to be the stalk at fault. It would briefly work if pulled half way into the wash wipe position. This was not suprising as its done loads of miles as a van previously and the buttons on the stalk for trip did not respond great.
Looking for a new stalk, its a combined audio stalk and seen loads of china knockoff's at half the price of 2nd hand oem. One offer came in of one for £19 delivered, if it were shite its no big loss.
Was expecting to have to remove the steering wheel but it was a simple 3 min job to fit.
Works decent being honest, better than the original delphi one. With the limited mileage this does, prob last ok.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Quick trip to Donny in the Kangoo on Sat to collect 172 seats. Barely fit
As said before the fuel gauge is a bit on the piss due to ecumaster not calculating it properly and trip shows 3mpg at motorway speeds with gauge going down fast to the bottom. Luckily it resets with ign on and off using sender level resistance, which worked out to be 190miles to just over half a tank..this was around 70mph on cruise control for most of the journey, so not bad for 870cc injectors.
Ecumaster have done some custom firmware with different dividers for the fuel gauge, so we will see if we can find one that works better. If not, i have another solution.
As ever, not standing still on this one and i have been researching/purchasing a few bits to improve other bits. Updates in due course.
Thanks for reading!!
As said before the fuel gauge is a bit on the piss due to ecumaster not calculating it properly and trip shows 3mpg at motorway speeds with gauge going down fast to the bottom. Luckily it resets with ign on and off using sender level resistance, which worked out to be 190miles to just over half a tank..this was around 70mph on cruise control for most of the journey, so not bad for 870cc injectors.
Ecumaster have done some custom firmware with different dividers for the fuel gauge, so we will see if we can find one that works better. If not, i have another solution.
As ever, not standing still on this one and i have been researching/purchasing a few bits to improve other bits. Updates in due course.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
Picked up another megane g series tubular exhaust manifold up last week. Made by CSK race exhausts for custom production.
Welding on it is sexy as f**k. Bought this incase my nortech one cracks again on the kangoo when we push a bit more power. I cant see it lasting too long as its been repaired in several places, and these tubular manifolds do not have an indefinite lifespan.
Theres not many good tubular manifolds available nowadays so the old saying of looking at it, is better than looking for it.
Also rear brake update. After looking at fitting the megane r26 rear brake setup a few posts ago, have shelved the idea for now as the caliper mounts are nowhere near, and looking for obscure calipers to fit will seriously limit pad choice. This would also leave me with stock compound rear pads like it has now and much f**k about to get there.
So ive took the easier route. Stick with current 274mm rear discs and trw calipers, and better rear pads.
Obviously no uprated rear pads available for kangoo apart from ebc greenstuff, which are also unavailable and far from a good choice. I made enquiries with ebc to see if they would do a one off pad for me with the good compounds but pretty straight answer of no/not interested.
I contacted Carbotech europe as @JamesBryan had mentioned they would do custom brakepads. Enquired via email with my wants and needs and Ian/Carbotech was very helpful and could cater for what i need.
To quote Ian
"Compound is the tricky one as on front wheel drive its easy to go too strong on rear and have the rear locking up, what sort of weight is the van an what pads have you tried and how did they hold up etc ?
Typically i would start out with our AX6 thats the lowest track spec material we do and gives a nice smooth/strong bite and can handle a fair amount of heat, works well in rear of front wheel drives usually and next step up from say ds2500 which is also a ok rear pad but guessing they wont make in your fitment, anything stronger in our range could be a bit too grabby for rear."
Taking Ians advice i have went with the AX6 on a reline basis using oe pad back plates.
Pads arrived and look spot on. Carbotech have been great to deal with, and the prices are not crazy for one off. Lead time was 4 weeks which was also good.
Ill hold back fitting these and new discs until the new year as id imagine the kangoo will be off the road soon. Its been a few years since it was put together, so ill most likely fit some braided flexis, new fluid and give it a good once over. The brakes are currently decent for road use, i imagine the new rear pads/braided flexis etc will give improvements.
Thanks for reading!!
Picked up another megane g series tubular exhaust manifold up last week. Made by CSK race exhausts for custom production.
Welding on it is sexy as f**k. Bought this incase my nortech one cracks again on the kangoo when we push a bit more power. I cant see it lasting too long as its been repaired in several places, and these tubular manifolds do not have an indefinite lifespan.
Theres not many good tubular manifolds available nowadays so the old saying of looking at it, is better than looking for it.
Also rear brake update. After looking at fitting the megane r26 rear brake setup a few posts ago, have shelved the idea for now as the caliper mounts are nowhere near, and looking for obscure calipers to fit will seriously limit pad choice. This would also leave me with stock compound rear pads like it has now and much f**k about to get there.
So ive took the easier route. Stick with current 274mm rear discs and trw calipers, and better rear pads.
Obviously no uprated rear pads available for kangoo apart from ebc greenstuff, which are also unavailable and far from a good choice. I made enquiries with ebc to see if they would do a one off pad for me with the good compounds but pretty straight answer of no/not interested.
I contacted Carbotech europe as @JamesBryan had mentioned they would do custom brakepads. Enquired via email with my wants and needs and Ian/Carbotech was very helpful and could cater for what i need.
To quote Ian
"Compound is the tricky one as on front wheel drive its easy to go too strong on rear and have the rear locking up, what sort of weight is the van an what pads have you tried and how did they hold up etc ?
Typically i would start out with our AX6 thats the lowest track spec material we do and gives a nice smooth/strong bite and can handle a fair amount of heat, works well in rear of front wheel drives usually and next step up from say ds2500 which is also a ok rear pad but guessing they wont make in your fitment, anything stronger in our range could be a bit too grabby for rear."
Taking Ians advice i have went with the AX6 on a reline basis using oe pad back plates.
Pads arrived and look spot on. Carbotech have been great to deal with, and the prices are not crazy for one off. Lead time was 4 weeks which was also good.
Ill hold back fitting these and new discs until the new year as id imagine the kangoo will be off the road soon. Its been a few years since it was put together, so ill most likely fit some braided flexis, new fluid and give it a good once over. The brakes are currently decent for road use, i imagine the new rear pads/braided flexis etc will give improvements.
Thanks for reading!!
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
Nice mate!
Are they just for track use?
Are they just for track use?
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Aye track use (like current front ferodo pads
). One day i might get it to CroftIts got quite a bit of rear bias like most modern stuff. When i took it round Anglesey it took 50% of the rear pads in 3x short sessions.
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
Aye track use (like current front ferodo pads
Its got quite a bit of rear bias like most modern stuff. When i took it round Anglesey it took 50% of the rear pads in 3x short sessions.
Should last a fair while if you're not using them on the road then.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
Been chasing an intermittent misfire on this for a while now. Most of the time its clean but does the odd jolt at part throttle/higher rpms etc.
As the R8 coils are known to fail i thought it was worth changing for new and try some expensive iridium sparks to replace the copper.
I knew one of the coils had this damage, they were supplied with the ecu package so not guilty. Probably should have replaced ages ago but anyway.
New plugs and fresh ngk coils installed.
I honestly thought the issue was the damaged coil as it did not clip on as tight as the rest. New ign did not make a difference, it drives great 95% of the time and occasional hiccup.
Doing some digging and the coil dwell time is set correctly so thats a non issue. Spark plugs gapped correctly. I have been advised this could be an earth issue and to earth the cyl head to the chassis, as the coil wiring is earthed to the cyl head as necessary to avoid electrical noise spiking the ecu, and my main earth is on the gearbox as per oem megane.
I might be way off but i believe the cyl head does not earth great to the block / resistance can increase with heat - as a lot of high powered yank stuff have the heads bonded and earthed separate. Although im cautious to avoid forming ground loops. Ill do some thinking about it this week.
I also replaced the trims on the end of the scuttle. The oem ones were broken and kept lifting off at should we say higher speeds
Oem are expensive new around £40 a side and usually missing or broken on any breaker. So fitted aftermarket a while ago which were also crap as did not have all the tabs on and also lifted. Prob ok on diesel but yea..needs to be bolted down better for higher speeds.
Got a pair of used oem trims off a citan in U-pull it last week and they seem to be hanging in there. Fit better at least.
Been using it a bit before it comes off the road for winter. Big job on at the wholesalers on Sat
The mfd15 gauge logs max readings for whatever you have set it to read, and seen max speed pop up like this a few times recently usually after a bit of wheelspin.
Note 204mph Still no idea why it does this as ecu logs do not show the same, just a canbus quirk i guess.
Been chasing an intermittent misfire on this for a while now. Most of the time its clean but does the odd jolt at part throttle/higher rpms etc.
As the R8 coils are known to fail i thought it was worth changing for new and try some expensive iridium sparks to replace the copper.
I knew one of the coils had this damage, they were supplied with the ecu package so not guilty. Probably should have replaced ages ago but anyway.
New plugs and fresh ngk coils installed.
I honestly thought the issue was the damaged coil as it did not clip on as tight as the rest. New ign did not make a difference, it drives great 95% of the time and occasional hiccup.
Doing some digging and the coil dwell time is set correctly so thats a non issue. Spark plugs gapped correctly. I have been advised this could be an earth issue and to earth the cyl head to the chassis, as the coil wiring is earthed to the cyl head as necessary to avoid electrical noise spiking the ecu, and my main earth is on the gearbox as per oem megane.
I might be way off but i believe the cyl head does not earth great to the block / resistance can increase with heat - as a lot of high powered yank stuff have the heads bonded and earthed separate. Although im cautious to avoid forming ground loops. Ill do some thinking about it this week.
I also replaced the trims on the end of the scuttle. The oem ones were broken and kept lifting off at should we say higher speeds
Oem are expensive new around £40 a side and usually missing or broken on any breaker. So fitted aftermarket a while ago which were also crap as did not have all the tabs on and also lifted. Prob ok on diesel but yea..needs to be bolted down better for higher speeds.
Got a pair of used oem trims off a citan in U-pull it last week and they seem to be hanging in there. Fit better at least.
Been using it a bit before it comes off the road for winter. Big job on at the wholesalers on Sat
The mfd15 gauge logs max readings for whatever you have set it to read, and seen max speed pop up like this a few times recently usually after a bit of wheelspin.
Note 204mph
Still no idea why it does this as ecu logs do not show the same, just a canbus quirk i guess.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Last week i also changed the heater controls on the Kangoo. Mine were tired/damaged and the illumination has never worked despite changing bulbs ages ago, which was annoying when night driving.
Quick half hour job he says. Start taking the cables off the heater panel that are held in with a bizarre flat circlip clamp, used a pick to remove the first one and ping, behind the fcuking dash. As no spares stripped glovebox and stereo out to search, eventually found it with some magnet fishing underneath stereo.
New panel did not illuminate when fitted, I checked wiring to make sure it had power for the lighting, all good. Checked bulbs and they were both popped so changed for new, and back together finally a couple of hours later
Illumination lools decent at night so it can be forgiven for being a cnut to fit.
Thanks for reading!!
Quick half hour job he says. Start taking the cables off the heater panel that are held in with a bizarre flat circlip clamp, used a pick to remove the first one and ping, behind the fcuking dash. As no spares stripped glovebox and stereo out to search, eventually found it with some magnet fishing underneath stereo.
New panel did not illuminate when fitted, I checked wiring to make sure it had power for the lighting, all good. Checked bulbs and they were both popped so changed for new, and back together finally a couple of hours later
Illumination lools decent at night so it can be forgiven for being a cnut to fit.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Done a couple of small jobs to the Kangoo yesterday.
Its had this intermittent squeaking from the rear door area that absolutely resonates through the van under accleration and kills the sexy exhaust noise from the big turbo setup. After some diag i.e somebody listening in the back when moving (on private roads of course) the issue was located to the rear light area on the o/s.
This turned out to be the rear light, i guess q combination of harmonics/vibration causing plastic on plastic squeaking..it has fittings that pop into plastic inserts and moving the light replicated it.
Light and upper trim removed, inspected for rubbing / witness marks. Not a lot to see, and clearly plastic on plastic so greased the mounting pins and refitted, noise gone.
Also adjusted the door latches to pull in a bit tighter as the rubbers are a little baggy due to age.
With that done, moved onto the next job. Im still getting the random misfire. Cant pinpoint as sometimes it wont do it for 100 miles/not repeatable, just an odd pop on acceleration. Its basically light spark blow. Ive been advised to add an earth to chassis from the cyl head, as these r8 coils are a bit fussy. Knocked up a suitable fat lead from the wiring box.
Not driven yet but will see if it cures it. If not back to the drawing board. Next step will be phat power and relay to the coils bypassing the oem setup, and slight changes to earths. Ill get it sorted.
Thanks for reading!!
Its had this intermittent squeaking from the rear door area that absolutely resonates through the van under accleration and kills the sexy exhaust noise from the big turbo setup. After some diag i.e somebody listening in the back when moving (on private roads of course) the issue was located to the rear light area on the o/s.
This turned out to be the rear light, i guess q combination of harmonics/vibration causing plastic on plastic squeaking..it has fittings that pop into plastic inserts and moving the light replicated it.
Light and upper trim removed, inspected for rubbing / witness marks. Not a lot to see, and clearly plastic on plastic so greased the mounting pins and refitted, noise gone.
Also adjusted the door latches to pull in a bit tighter as the rubbers are a little baggy due to age.
With that done, moved onto the next job. Im still getting the random misfire. Cant pinpoint as sometimes it wont do it for 100 miles/not repeatable, just an odd pop on acceleration. Its basically light spark blow. Ive been advised to add an earth to chassis from the cyl head, as these r8 coils are a bit fussy. Knocked up a suitable fat lead from the wiring box.
Not driven yet but will see if it cures it. If not back to the drawing board. Next step will be phat power and relay to the coils bypassing the oem setup, and slight changes to earths. Ill get it sorted.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
The squeaking is cured thank fook. No change on the occasional spark blow, most of the time its clean so very intermittent. Ive logged triggers etc and nothing is jumping out, back to the drawing board, ill get it sorted just need a bit more time.
On with other projects that ive had in the pipeline for ages. In my never ending quest to improve the handling, i am working on fitting an additional rear anti roll bar. The rear beam flexes a bit so should be beneficial.
Ash Talbot fitted a clio whiteline arb to his old mk2 kangoo years ago and i come across pics of it the other day when doing some research.
It looks tidy and fits well with minor mods needed to fit but not too bad, basically just larger u bolts and open up the holes slightly. I bought a cheap whiteline arb off @Louis ages ago so dug it out to inspect.
Its a bit of a rusty sea dog and i couldnt be arsed prepping for paint so sent it to the local powdercoaters, daft £30.
Came out miles better than expected.
Im thinking about mounting the droplink different to Ash, using a rosejoint. Ive ordered a cheaper set to prove concept before spending a small fortune on teflon coated.
U bolts should be here this week. Wil update as install commences.
Ive also bought a new gear cable holder for my pk 250 cup gearbox. The oem cable holder is plastic and basically crap, mine cracked years ago making the gear cable pop out whilst sending it and losing gears. I had to repair it with a jubilee clip to secure the cable, its a bit pikey but works OK so has been on the list to replace at some point.
Ive seen a billet alloy one but too expensive to justify. Miex.fr do a nice steel one which is much more reasonably priced, and i finally got round to ordering this week. Arrived quickly from france, and looks to be a quality bit of kit.
Ill install this at some point over winter.
I have also updated my Canchecked mfd15 gauge. The facebook page is very active and i seen they had an update out and a new app to change settings via bluetooth. Required a data flash via laptop so done that on Friday.
The update / app is awesome, all done via bluetooth. Its miles better than the old way of updating via ip/browser on wifi, which was fairly slow and something had went corrupt on mine so i couldnt access it properly.
With the new firmware flash, id lost the ecumaster icon on boot, so played about with my own now its possible to change the config again.
With a nod to the running gear and megane rs monitor boot page, I downloaded a couple of rs logos to play with.
After trying both i settled for the newer one as it looked cleaner. Hard to picture as its on for 3seconds.
Asked Ai to modify and it delivered.
Uploaded to the software in 2seconds via app.
Pic has been cleaned by Ai to remove the blur.
A quick cycle of the gauges. The gauge works flawless on the new firmware no more 200mph max readings coming up etc. 10/10 to canchecked for this update.
Been out in it tonight and its a different animal now the intake temps are low. No traction in 2nd gear on the cup2s in cooler weather even with boost by gear, but 3rd and up its fast and useable. Boost still set at 1.5bar peak / low to mid 400hp area. Does not need any more being honest
Thanks for reading!!
The squeaking is cured thank fook. No change on the occasional spark blow, most of the time its clean so very intermittent. Ive logged triggers etc and nothing is jumping out, back to the drawing board, ill get it sorted just need a bit more time.
On with other projects that ive had in the pipeline for ages. In my never ending quest to improve the handling, i am working on fitting an additional rear anti roll bar. The rear beam flexes a bit so should be beneficial.
Ash Talbot fitted a clio whiteline arb to his old mk2 kangoo years ago and i come across pics of it the other day when doing some research.
It looks tidy and fits well with minor mods needed to fit but not too bad, basically just larger u bolts and open up the holes slightly. I bought a cheap whiteline arb off @Louis ages ago so dug it out to inspect.
Its a bit of a rusty sea dog and i couldnt be arsed prepping for paint so sent it to the local powdercoaters, daft £30.
Came out miles better than expected.
Im thinking about mounting the droplink different to Ash, using a rosejoint. Ive ordered a cheaper set to prove concept before spending a small fortune on teflon coated.
U bolts should be here this week. Wil update as install commences.
Ive also bought a new gear cable holder for my pk 250 cup gearbox. The oem cable holder is plastic and basically crap, mine cracked years ago making the gear cable pop out whilst sending it and losing gears. I had to repair it with a jubilee clip to secure the cable, its a bit pikey but works OK so has been on the list to replace at some point.
Ive seen a billet alloy one but too expensive to justify. Miex.fr do a nice steel one which is much more reasonably priced, and i finally got round to ordering this week. Arrived quickly from france, and looks to be a quality bit of kit.
Ill install this at some point over winter.
I have also updated my Canchecked mfd15 gauge. The facebook page is very active and i seen they had an update out and a new app to change settings via bluetooth. Required a data flash via laptop so done that on Friday.
The update / app is awesome, all done via bluetooth. Its miles better than the old way of updating via ip/browser on wifi, which was fairly slow and something had went corrupt on mine so i couldnt access it properly.
With the new firmware flash, id lost the ecumaster icon on boot, so played about with my own now its possible to change the config again.
With a nod to the running gear and megane rs monitor boot page, I downloaded a couple of rs logos to play with.
After trying both i settled for the newer one as it looked cleaner. Hard to picture as its on for 3seconds.
Asked Ai to modify and it delivered.
Pic has been cleaned by Ai to remove the blur.
A quick cycle of the gauges. The gauge works flawless on the new firmware no more 200mph max readings coming up etc. 10/10 to canchecked for this update.
Been out in it tonight and its a different animal now the intake temps are low. No traction in 2nd gear on the cup2s in cooler weather even with boost by gear, but 3rd and up its fast and useable. Boost still set at 1.5bar peak / low to mid 400hp area. Does not need any more being honest
Thanks for reading!!
