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Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project [Year 3 - Engine and Chassis Rebuild]
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
After tidying up the welds where the old lower door bar used to be a few days ago, I decided to set about getting the two new ones level and tacked into place.
Once I got them spot on angle wise, and tacked into place all was good. Then thought f*ck it and just went for it with welding a run round one side of the pipe.
Talk about jumping in at the deep end lol, although they have not come out too bad at all. I wasnt too bothered as they wont be seen once the door bar gussets are welded in. More playing with the settings needed on some more scrap again tonight I think, not really understanding the differences in wire speed.
After tidying up the welds where the old lower door bar used to be a few days ago, I decided to set about getting the two new ones level and tacked into place.
Once I got them spot on angle wise, and tacked into place all was good. Then thought f*ck it and just went for it with welding a run round one side of the pipe.
Talk about jumping in at the deep end lol, although they have not come out too bad at all. I wasnt too bothered as they wont be seen once the door bar gussets are welded in. More playing with the settings needed on some more scrap again tonight I think, not really understanding the differences in wire speed.
172 cup
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
wire feed is directly related to the amp setting, thicker metal you would weld higher as you won't blow through as easy and need to penatrate deep enough so you need more wire to fill the gap vice versa for thinner metal you would feed slower on a lower amp
wire feed is directly related to the amp setting, thicker metal you would weld higher as you won't blow through as easy and need to penatrate deep enough so you need more wire to fill the gap vice versa for thinner metal you would feed slower on a lower amp
172 cup
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
it also depends on the way you're joining the metal, with your door bars, instead of welding down where they touch move across on to the whole bar and what you need to do is the same as joined up cs when you learnt how to do joined up writing with the tip so that about 70% of the weld is on the uncut part and 30% hits the cut edge as it's thinner and you won't penerate making a weak weld because you're blowing through.
it's hard to explain on a computer.
setting are different for everybody because we all move at a different speed so the slower you move the lower the amp+feed and faster you go higher the amp+feed, it's easier to set by sound, you wanna hear it like sizzling bacon, to high feed and it will splutter not enough the weld will dip in rather than being raised
it also depends on the way you're joining the metal, with your door bars, instead of welding down where they touch move across on to the whole bar and what you need to do is the same as joined up cs when you learnt how to do joined up writing with the tip so that about 70% of the weld is on the uncut part and 30% hits the cut edge as it's thinner and you won't penerate making a weak weld because you're blowing through.
it's hard to explain on a computer.
setting are different for everybody because we all move at a different speed so the slower you move the lower the amp+feed and faster you go higher the amp+feed, it's easier to set by sound, you wanna hear it like sizzling bacon, to high feed and it will splutter not enough the weld will dip in rather than being raised
172 cup
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
yes, in theory, but then you have to look into penetration.
easiest way is sheet metal, say 2mm, doing a butt weld leaving a 2mm gap (the gap for weld will be the thickness of the metal, but this changes depending on the join i.e butt or overlap) working the joined up cs dragging the pool. once you're done flip it over (carefully it will be hot!) and you can see the penetration and play with the setting from there
yes, in theory, but then you have to look into penetration.
easiest way is sheet metal, say 2mm, doing a butt weld leaving a 2mm gap (the gap for weld will be the thickness of the metal, but this changes depending on the join i.e butt or overlap) working the joined up cs dragging the pool. once you're done flip it over (carefully it will be hot!) and you can see the penetration and play with the setting from there
JDM Dc2
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
mint work!
mint work!
Mk1 F4R
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
Looks good, you tryed to get in and out to see wot it feels like
Looks good, you tryed to get in and out to see wot it feels like
E60 diesel powah
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
where the hell have you been hiding? Joe was asking other day lol
where the hell have you been hiding? Joe was asking other day lol
Sunflower Ph1 172
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
Finally got round to getting my arse on here...
gotta say, I love this car. good work.
Finally got round to getting my arse on here...
gotta say, I love this car. good work.
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
Some more bits done, just need welding etc. Second set of sidemounts sourced, same as the ones im running at the moment.
Seat bars are nearly done and will be going in soon, then I can remove the standard Renault rails once I get a spot weld drill bit. Lots more to do, engine out time soon.
Thats all for now, will do a proper update next few days!
Some more bits done, just need welding etc. Second set of sidemounts sourced, same as the ones im running at the moment.
Seat bars are nearly done and will be going in soon, then I can remove the standard Renault rails once I get a spot weld drill bit. Lots more to do, engine out time soon.
Thats all for now, will do a proper update next few days!
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
Good Work!
Good Work!
Mk1 F4R
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
Looks good were did you get it done and how much
Looks good were did you get it done and how much
Last edited:
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
There is little motivation at the moment as its all metal work, grinding/cutting/welding/etc. Very boring and takes a lot of time, but it needs to be done before engine/electrics/etc can be started.
I think I mentioned previously that the seat bars are being replaced with tube, with tabs on the back for the sidemounts to bolt to...well ive been cracking on with it recently.
The seat bars that have been in/used over the past year have done the job, but they were never perfectly level (which pissed me off) so decided to replace them over winter. It was an absolute nightmare cutting them out, 3mm steel and daft angles, eventually got there though.
The clios seem to be made of 0.1mm Tin, managed to create a little hole on the exhaust tunnel on the front one, and some sort of gap appeared on the rear one. Not to worry though as these are going to be plated over, then the new bars welded to the plates.
Passenger seat bars/plates are being welded in on Friday, as I dont think its wise for me to be welding the floorpan myself just yet. While thats being done, all the other holes in the floor pan are going to be plated/welded up...
Top down view...
Once the new seat bars are in, the original renault seat bars are going to be removed as they are only spot welded in, and not needed anymore. They are only being left until then so I can use them to get the new bars level.
Finally got round to cutting the gussets up for the doorbars too, as these are going to be welded in on Friday also. The aim is to get both sides door bars finished and in, the gussets for them, the main hoop brace and the B-Pillar gussets by the end of the week.
After that, I will only have the strut parts of the cage and windscreen gussets left to do, but that can only happen once the windscreen is out.
Obviously the drivers seat bars will need to be done also, but thats going to have to wait until I get a normal width seat, as one of my GT width ones are going elsewhere. Il be keeping one GT width as a passenger seat, and getting a normal width version for the driver
More soon.
There is little motivation at the moment as its all metal work, grinding/cutting/welding/etc. Very boring and takes a lot of time, but it needs to be done before engine/electrics/etc can be started.
I think I mentioned previously that the seat bars are being replaced with tube, with tabs on the back for the sidemounts to bolt to...well ive been cracking on with it recently.
The seat bars that have been in/used over the past year have done the job, but they were never perfectly level (which pissed me off) so decided to replace them over winter. It was an absolute nightmare cutting them out, 3mm steel and daft angles, eventually got there though.
The clios seem to be made of 0.1mm Tin, managed to create a little hole on the exhaust tunnel on the front one, and some sort of gap appeared on the rear one. Not to worry though as these are going to be plated over, then the new bars welded to the plates.
Passenger seat bars/plates are being welded in on Friday, as I dont think its wise for me to be welding the floorpan myself just yet. While thats being done, all the other holes in the floor pan are going to be plated/welded up...
Top down view...
Once the new seat bars are in, the original renault seat bars are going to be removed as they are only spot welded in, and not needed anymore. They are only being left until then so I can use them to get the new bars level.
Finally got round to cutting the gussets up for the doorbars too, as these are going to be welded in on Friday also. The aim is to get both sides door bars finished and in, the gussets for them, the main hoop brace and the B-Pillar gussets by the end of the week.
After that, I will only have the strut parts of the cage and windscreen gussets left to do, but that can only happen once the windscreen is out.
Obviously the drivers seat bars will need to be done also, but thats going to have to wait until I get a normal width seat, as one of my GT width ones are going elsewhere. Il be keeping one GT width as a passenger seat, and getting a normal width version for the driver
More soon.
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
After running this on my engine for 4-5 months, along with a couple of trackdays, I decided to offer them to other Mk1 owners in the form of a group buy. After I got 10 people interested I got making them..
Engine movement is reduced dramatically when fitted, gearchanges a lot more 'precise' due to there being no more engine movement too. Progress over the last few weeks on the car has been slow due to this, as ive been busy making them for the group buy...
After the first 'make it fit' design I ran on mine, I changed the design slightly for a better fit, slightly different shape too. Although it uses the same holes and the same Renault 5 rubber mount, which bolts through the Mk1 subframe...
Too bad Mk2s dont have the hole in the subframe (or not that I know of) as the design started from mine which was made for the F4R block :boring:
As mentioned above, ive been putting together a 5th mount for the front of the engine the past day or two.
This is what a R5 GTX mount looks like when purchased from renault, the rubber is in the bag...
The rubber alone is 47 quid from Renault! Anyway, decided to see how much the rubber would be from the local factors, £6. So I set about making my own bracket...Used some thin aluminium to get the shape/dimensions/angles right, as there is quite a few angles involved...
Once I was happy with that, I got some 6mm steel, bent to the angle I wanted. I then used my template to replicate it on the steel...After doing that, I cut a piece of spare roll-cage tubing up, to strengthen the mount, and welded it in place. I decided to add it to stop any 'flex' in the metal mount...
This is the rubber from the motor factors...
Gave it a quick coat of hammerite...
Once dry, mounted the rubber to it...
As you may have noticed, once of the holes is elongated/slotted...After marking where the hole was on my ph2 bottom end (in the car) and drilling it, the hole on my spare bottom end was in a slightly different place oddly.....so I made it big enough to counteract any errors in the marking....fits ok now anyway...
This is the hole on the subframe where it mounts....
Then fitted it...
Spot on. No engine movement at all now really, alot better :evil:
After running this on my engine for 4-5 months, along with a couple of trackdays, I decided to offer them to other Mk1 owners in the form of a group buy. After I got 10 people interested I got making them..
Engine movement is reduced dramatically when fitted, gearchanges a lot more 'precise' due to there being no more engine movement too. Progress over the last few weeks on the car has been slow due to this, as ive been busy making them for the group buy...
After the first 'make it fit' design I ran on mine, I changed the design slightly for a better fit, slightly different shape too. Although it uses the same holes and the same Renault 5 rubber mount, which bolts through the Mk1 subframe...
Too bad Mk2s dont have the hole in the subframe (or not that I know of) as the design started from mine which was made for the F4R block :boring:
TrackCar & F30 330d
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
Good to see your making money out of been a geinus
Good to see your making money out of been a geinus
E36 328
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
Foxy what website hosts your blog as im trying to find one thats actually half decent that requires little maintenance but i am failing miserably?
Nice work on those mounts, i would have definitely had one but im fitting the volvo engine so not sure it would fit.
Foxy what website hosts your blog as im trying to find one thats actually half decent that requires little maintenance but i am failing miserably?
Nice work on those mounts, i would have definitely had one but im fitting the volvo engine so not sure it would fit.
JDM Dc2
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
look forward to seeing this welding done!!
look forward to seeing this welding done!!
Mk1 F4R
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
Had a sneak peek at the cage before and i got to say it looks mint
Had a sneak peek at the cage before and i got to say it looks mint
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
Mediatemple.net mate, I have quite a few sites for other people that ive done so its just on there too.
No wont fit, lol.
Mediatemple.net mate, I have quite a few sites for other people that ive done so its just on there too.
No wont fit, lol.
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
More done on the cage today, was going to make a start on the floor bars but other things came up and these bits alone took ages to get right!
First up was drivers door bars being welded solid, then got on with the gussets for them. I thought I had most of them ready to go, but they needed so much fine adjustment and it just ended up taking ages. In the end they were just put on the best as we could.
Then trimmed and welded the B-Pillar gussets from the cage to the chassis. Also welded the main hoop brace in behind the seats...
As I said the seat bars didnt get done, but they should be sometime soon, no real major rush yet.
Still got the cage parts going to the struts to fit, along with the windscreen gussets, but thats only happening when the windscreen is out and car stripped down. Hopefully that wont be much longer. Quite a chunk of the work done today on the metalwork side of it at least anyway.
More soon!
More done on the cage today, was going to make a start on the floor bars but other things came up and these bits alone took ages to get right!
First up was drivers door bars being welded solid, then got on with the gussets for them. I thought I had most of them ready to go, but they needed so much fine adjustment and it just ended up taking ages. In the end they were just put on the best as we could.
Then trimmed and welded the B-Pillar gussets from the cage to the chassis. Also welded the main hoop brace in behind the seats...
As I said the seat bars didnt get done, but they should be sometime soon, no real major rush yet.
Still got the cage parts going to the struts to fit, along with the windscreen gussets, but thats only happening when the windscreen is out and car stripped down. Hopefully that wont be much longer. Quite a chunk of the work done today on the metalwork side of it at least anyway.
More soon!
Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]
Might be an engine rebuild too now
Just drove the car and had a major constant rubbing noise that changed with revs. Severe lack of power and a dodgy smell from outside too. Managed to get it home fine, but i've no idea what it is. Popped bonnet off and everything looks normal, just a bit of a burning smell. Oil level is still on max too.
Cambelt idler maybe? Who knows. Doesnt sound like an internals sort of noise, sounds like a belt I think :dapprove:
Might be an engine rebuild too now
Just drove the car and had a major constant rubbing noise that changed with revs. Severe lack of power and a dodgy smell from outside too. Managed to get it home fine, but i've no idea what it is. Popped bonnet off and everything looks normal, just a bit of a burning smell. Oil level is still on max too.
Cambelt idler maybe? Who knows. Doesnt sound like an internals sort of noise, sounds like a belt I think :dapprove:
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]
Lame - Get to it!
Lame - Get to it!
Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]
:/.... Piece of R.
Might be an engine rebuild too now
Just drove the car and had a major constant rubbing noise that changed with revs. Severe lack of power and a dodgy smell from outside too. Managed to get it home fine, but i've no idea what it is. Popped bonnet off and everything looks normal, just a bit of a burning smell. Oil level is still on max too.
Cambelt idler maybe? Who knows. Doesnt sound like an internals sort of noise, sounds like a belt I think :dapprove:
:/.... Piece of R.
Mk1 F4R
Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]
Bad times.... youll have it done before i get mine done
Bad times.... youll have it done before i get mine done
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
Had a look this morning to see if they would fit and they will, but in order for it to work you have to run the cup setup and then just drill a hole in the subframe,
Had a look this morning to see if they would fit and they will, but in order for it to work you have to run the cup setup and then just drill a hole in the subframe,
Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]
Yeah, ive worked out what it is already.
Ah cool, so it has the same flat area but no hole?
Bad times.... youll have it done before i get mine done
Yeah, ive worked out what it is already.
Had a look this morning to see if they would fit and they will, but in order for it to work you have to run the cup setup and then just drill a hole in the subframe,
Ah cool, so it has the same flat area but no hole?
Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]
Cool, just posted up a request for some pictures to check it out... Im sure the cup setup uses those holes though? I thought it was just the Mk1 non-pas brackets that didnt...
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=487436
Cool, just posted up a request for some pictures to check it out... Im sure the cup setup uses those holes though? I thought it was just the Mk1 non-pas brackets that didnt...
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=487436
Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]
Had the cam covers off to check the cambelt/tensioners etc this morning, all looks fine.
Im pretty sure its the waterpump, very loud rattling/rubbing noise when running. You can sort of hear it as a fast knocking noise in the background of the video. Removed the aux belt and the sound is non-existant. The waterpump is only 10/11k old too :dapprove:
[youtube]0Ly5NZpaBDY[/youtube]
Had the cam covers off to check the cambelt/tensioners etc this morning, all looks fine.
Im pretty sure its the waterpump, very loud rattling/rubbing noise when running. You can sort of hear it as a fast knocking noise in the background of the video. Removed the aux belt and the sound is non-existant. The waterpump is only 10/11k old too :dapprove:
[youtube]0Ly5NZpaBDY[/youtube]
