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My new racecar project (Icemans old shell)



  Astra VXR Nurburgrin
Love the car. What race are you entered in? I wanted to enter time attack but would prefer actual racing against other cars rather than a clock.
 

Russ Rallye

ClioSport Club Member
The TARC Tricolore Trophy is what I race this in, there's a few others that race in the same series on the forum, highly recomended whether you're a beginner or more experience and another entry on the grid would be great.
Russ
 

Russ Rallye

ClioSport Club Member
Not a lot going on really, just waiting on some parts coming to refresh the front suspension, a few bearings and new nuts and bolts etc.
subframe is off to have the wishbone mounts strengthened and some other mods to make the whole thing a bit more solid.
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Although I don't agree with removing the headlights on a race car as there's more to be gained in safety by keeping them for wet conditions etc than in weight reduction of circa 2kgs. That said I thought I'd make up a set for dry running as its only a 5 min job to swap them over.
Just done one at the moment but I'm quite impressed, just needs flatted off and a few coats of Matt black applied.
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Seen as everyone else is cheating for next year and adding power @dinger and @tomjohn I'm looking at you! I've acquired a spare engine that I'm gonna do a build on. It won't be ready for the start of the season but hopefully not long after, I'll just have to struggle on with what I have for the minute!
Russ
 

Russ Rallye

ClioSport Club Member
Any hint's on the spec of the engine build Russ?

Seems like everyone is adding power for next year.
I couldn't possibly tell you that! It's not gonna be a massive money build. I need a spare engine anyway as after whats happened to everyone else's this year I'm thinking mine is living on borrowed time! So I could build up another the same spec as my current lump but I might as well make a few tweaks to it while I'm building it and it's in bits anyway. Light weight and reliability is what I'm looking for, things like a 197 bottom pulley and proper key-wayed cam pulleys to stop the timing slipping little improvements like that.
@Tony Hunter don't worry I'm sure you're engine will be plenty healthy after @Fred@BTM has finished with it!
Russ
 
All sounds sensible Russ.
Didn't think key-wayed cam pulleys were available? Megane key-wayed crank pulley yes, but if you key way the cam pulleys wouldn't that make getting the correct belt tension difficult?
Maybe do away with the dephaser though and go non vvt. No real need for it on a race car anyway.
 
Is the 197 crank sprocket keyed? I know you can buy a 172/182 keyed crank pulley from ED, Pauls crank sprocket slipped at snett (not heard this happening a lot) that seriously damaged the valve train.
 
Is the 197 crank sprocket keyed? I know you can buy a 172/182 keyed crank pulley from ED, Pauls crank sprocket slipped at snett (not heard this happening a lot) that seriously damaged the valve train.

Megane crank sprocket is def keyed and it a direct replacement, providing the crankshaft has a keyway, 99% of them do but a small few didn't. Not sure about the 197 crank though.
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
If you know a bit about cam timing then yes. Wouldn't recommend it on a road car though.
The f4r is a pig to dial the cams in on due to the cam cover holding the cams into the head as well. You need to be able to access stuff and get the dti in there to do it properly and the only option available currently is the catcams kit.
 
The f4r is a pig to dial the cams in on due to the cam cover holding the cams into the head as well. You need to be able to access stuff and get the dti in there to do it properly and the only option available currently is the catcams kit.

Agreed it is difficult, but not impossible.
 
The f4r is a pig to dial the cams in on due to the cam cover holding the cams into the head as well. You need to be able to access stuff and get the dti in there to do it properly and the only option available currently is the catcams kit.
How does the catcams kit work Mark?
I have an old cam cover with holes cut in that I can use to dial them in but you still have the problem of getting the proper cam cover back on and to do that you need to remove the pulleys from the cams again IIRC. I was thinking I'd get an old horse shoe, cut it in half and make some sort of plate to fix it to. I could then take a reference of the timing that can be used to get back to the dialed in timing when you put the cam cover back on. Is that how it works?
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
How does the catcams kit work Mark?
I have an old cam cover with holes cut in that I can use to dial them in but you still have the problem of getting the proper cam cover back on and to do that you need to remove the pulleys from the cams again IIRC. I was thinking I'd get an old horse shoe, cut it in half and make some sort of plate to fix it to. I could then take a reference of the timing that can be used to get back to the dialed in timing when you put the cam cover back on. Is that how it works?
The catcams kit just holds the cams in place and allows them to be timed in as there's no cover there at all. At the horseshoe end there's a adjustable horseshoe that allows you to then replicate the desired cam timing position with the cover on.
I've got a cam cover with holes in it that can be used for this exact thing. Regards the tool, you just weld bits of metal together to replicate the offset. That is about as easy as it gets really, your definitely on the right track.

The sodemo engines had access holes in the cam cover to alleviate this
 
Just read through this entire thread and watched some of the video's. Very inspiring stuff and a good insight to racing a clio. Will keep an eye on this going forward
 

Russ Rallye

ClioSport Club Member
How does the catcams kit work Mark?
I have an old cam cover with holes cut in that I can use to dial them in but you still have the problem of getting the proper cam cover back on and to do that you need to remove the pulleys from the cams again IIRC. I was thinking I'd get an old horse shoe, cut it in half and make some sort of plate to fix it to. I could then take a reference of the timing that can be used to get back to the dialed in timing when you put the cam cover back on. Is that how it works?

The only thing stopping you getting the original cover back on is two lugs on the cover that sit behind the pulleys though, easy sorted.
Russ
 
  172 Rally Car
How often do you have the geo setup done? Everytime you remove or mess with the suspension? Or do you set it back up yourself?
 

Russ Rallye

ClioSport Club Member
How often do you have the geo setup done? Everytime you remove or mess with the suspension? Or do you set it back up yourself?
I can get it somewhere near with the equipment we've got but normally have it done at the start of the season properly by Blink and if i have it in bits mid season i'll get them to do it again. They've done it twice this year and then i had to do it roughly after cadwell myself. I do take the geo seriously as it makes a massive difference to the car.
Russ
 

Russ Rallye

ClioSport Club Member
Dates are confirmed for the 2015 calendar and are as follows
-5 March Silverstone Launch day/track day

-11/12 April Rockingham

-16/17 May Brands Hatch

-7 June Mallory Park

-18/19 July Cadwell Park

-15/16 August Silverstone

-5 September Castle Combe

-3 October Oulton Park

-1 November Snetterton 300 Autumn Trophy

Very similar to this year so should be good. Note the silverstone track/test/launch/media day in March, everyone welcome on or off track, think there's more details in the 'trackday' section on this forum. Great chance to see all the cars away from a busy race weekend and maybe blag a passenger lap or 2 I'll certainly try and get an extra seat in mine for the day.
Russ
 

Russ Rallye

ClioSport Club Member
Headlight blanks are done and fitted, head lights back on the spares box for wet weather.
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On the same note I've made a Matt black blank for the rear number plate light too
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My gearbox has been to my man for a check over, the diff was sent back to gropper for s check over too.
The diff had some wear and tear and had some bits replaced and the preload reset as part of a standard rebuild.
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The gearbox however was in a worse state and needed a few unexpected bits. All bearings and seals as a matter of course but the 1st/2nd gear selector had 2 issues it had lost the plastic tips off both of the ends + the recess where fork sits in was worn quite a lot. Either one of these would give me grief let alone both, it's no wonder looking back over my vids now that I've missed 2nd gear off the line a few times.
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It's all back together now though and dhould be like new. Replaced the selector pivot bush and circlip too.
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And back in the car
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Still waiting for my mate to finish doing some little bits on the subframe before I can get it all back together. Got a few bits to replace, done any wishbone bushes that needed replaced. New track rod drumsticks are waiting to go on along with new special rod ends, lots of new hardware to be fitted and importantly lots to go in the spares box for race weekends. I've got pretty much a full set of all bolts/fixings for the whole car should I need them.
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I've simplified my wheel setup now for next year too. 2 sets of Pro race 1.2's for wet and monsoon and 2 sets of OZ racing wheels for damp and dry. One set of OZ's are super leggera' so's was a bit unsure if they'd clear my brakes like the ultras do but they're fine, plenty of space.
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