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Project S13
- Thread starter Kneel
- Start date
3.2 V6 4KEV, 944 Cab, 172
Looking like a RUDE project matey, nice one!!
I have some black Daytonas here (Knutsford, so could even deliver!) ready and waiting...
PM me!!
Mustang, S13, AX GT
The 200SX fired back into life today of its own power for the 1st time since the last update
I have had all kinds of elaborate/stupid plans for this car as you can see reading through the thread, however I ran out of money for this car last year and left it sitting in the garage whilst I tried to earn some pennies to keep the clio. As some of you will have read I'm now 100% broke and have had to give the clio back meaning that project S13 is going to be my daily driver... interesting no?
Today I've been in the S13 sorting a few bits and pieces out ready for it becoming my daily driver, meaning a few 'comforts' have been re-added to the mix. My 1st task was to sort out the turbo timer, it had stopped working and as you can see on the previous pages it was held to the dash with insulation tape... I took the dash off and sorted the wires out before pulling them through to the CD compartment and mounted the turbo timer in there using velcro. I turned the car over and the turbo timer works again
The 2nd job was to tidy up all the loose wires in the car, out came the insulation tape again and all wires have been tidied up and tied to the sides. There was a random grey wired traced up the middle of the car but it wasn't connected to anything so thats been binned. All thats left in terms of tidying the inside is to get the sound deadening tar out but I need to find a heat gun (anyone in the NW willing to let me borrow 1 please pm me)
The next task was to get everything I need for it to be a daily driver, this meant that the windows are staying eleccy so the switches needed to go back in but still look 'neat'. i have taken the switches out of the plastic tray and grab handle thing they cam in and erm, glue gunned the switches straight onto the doorskin and plugged them back in. This is a perfect fix because when I get another car as a daily driver I can pull them off and go back to the original plan of manual winders. Another thing that I have put back in is the electric wingmirror adjusters and a cigarette lighter socket for the sat nav. I pulled these out of the centre console, plugged them back in and then tidied the wires up with some insulation tape. its again perfect until I can get another car then I wont need the cigarette lighter and I can find some manual adjusters.
Finally with all that done I decided I cant have a daily driver without a stereo... i know this may contradict the stripped interior but frankly, theres no way I'm driving a car daily without a stereo and I've scrapped the interior lol. This meant that I had to sort out the wiring looms and plugs for the ISO as the Alpine thats going in was originally in a clio and so had clio plugs which wouldn't fit in. I also had to repair the original loom as the connections were loose as hell. To say I got frustrated by this would be an understatement it wouldn't power up no matter what, until finally I realised the culprit was a blue wire. on the ISO to the head it was for the remote on but on the nissan loom it was for the power antenna. Blue wire severed and all other connections sorted out the stereo came on and worked with the original speaker wired up. Either way I need to build a speaker box on the doors so I've decided that I'm going to put in the whole sound syetem I had waaay back in my old Iggy Sport, which means an amp, sub and components will be going in. Again this is very contradictary to havin a stripped car but I figure I can make it so that the boxes have an easy release then if I wanna go to track days etc I can just lift the sound system out...
Sorry I dont have any pics of this yet, but they can wait until I have finished with the sound system. Also more good news, a friend is coming round on Saturday and we're gonna get the turbo swapped over and then hope and pray that this fixes the smoking issue. If it does, the cars getting insured and going in for MOT. once its back on the road I'm only a few bits away from stage 1 so I think I'll get that done aswell Project S13 is now officially back on, lets just hope the money keeps coming in for this...
I have had all kinds of elaborate/stupid plans for this car as you can see reading through the thread, however I ran out of money for this car last year and left it sitting in the garage whilst I tried to earn some pennies to keep the clio. As some of you will have read I'm now 100% broke and have had to give the clio back meaning that project S13 is going to be my daily driver... interesting no?
Today I've been in the S13 sorting a few bits and pieces out ready for it becoming my daily driver, meaning a few 'comforts' have been re-added to the mix. My 1st task was to sort out the turbo timer, it had stopped working and as you can see on the previous pages it was held to the dash with insulation tape... I took the dash off and sorted the wires out before pulling them through to the CD compartment and mounted the turbo timer in there using velcro. I turned the car over and the turbo timer works again
The 2nd job was to tidy up all the loose wires in the car, out came the insulation tape again and all wires have been tidied up and tied to the sides. There was a random grey wired traced up the middle of the car but it wasn't connected to anything so thats been binned. All thats left in terms of tidying the inside is to get the sound deadening tar out but I need to find a heat gun (anyone in the NW willing to let me borrow 1 please pm me
)The next task was to get everything I need for it to be a daily driver, this meant that the windows are staying eleccy so the switches needed to go back in but still look 'neat'. i have taken the switches out of the plastic tray and grab handle thing they cam in and erm, glue gunned the switches straight onto the doorskin and plugged them back in. This is a perfect fix because when I get another car as a daily driver I can pull them off and go back to the original plan of manual winders. Another thing that I have put back in is the electric wingmirror adjusters and a cigarette lighter socket for the sat nav. I pulled these out of the centre console, plugged them back in and then tidied the wires up with some insulation tape. its again perfect until I can get another car then I wont need the cigarette lighter and I can find some manual adjusters.
Finally with all that done I decided I cant have a daily driver without a stereo... i know this may contradict the stripped interior but frankly, theres no way I'm driving a car daily without a stereo and I've scrapped the interior lol. This meant that I had to sort out the wiring looms and plugs for the ISO as the Alpine thats going in was originally in a clio and so had clio plugs which wouldn't fit in. I also had to repair the original loom as the connections were loose as hell. To say I got frustrated by this would be an understatement it wouldn't power up no matter what, until finally I realised the culprit was a blue wire. on the ISO to the head it was for the remote on but on the nissan loom it was for the power antenna. Blue wire severed and all other connections sorted out the stereo came on and worked with the original speaker wired up. Either way I need to build a speaker box on the doors so I've decided that I'm going to put in the whole sound syetem I had waaay back in my old Iggy Sport, which means an amp, sub and components will be going in. Again this is very contradictary to havin a stripped car but I figure I can make it so that the boxes have an easy release then if I wanna go to track days etc I can just lift the sound system out...
Sorry I dont have any pics of this yet, but they can wait until I have finished with the sound system. Also more good news, a friend is coming round on Saturday and we're gonna get the turbo swapped over and then hope and pray that this fixes the smoking issue. If it does, the cars getting insured and going in for MOT. once its back on the road I'm only a few bits away from stage 1 so I think I'll get that done aswell
Project S13 is now officially back on, lets just hope the money keeps coming in for this...
ITB'd MK1
nice one shout me if you get stuck with the turbo swap or need anything.
shout me if you get stuck with the turbo swap or need anything.
Mustang, S13, AX GT
Yeah will do mate, was supposed to do it this weekend but my mate couldn't come up so will be doing it (hopefully) next week. Reading the guides on SXOC it sounds like it might be a pain in the arse for a novice haha...
Pics of the above work will be up tomorrow, those should make a few people smile
Pics of the above work will be up tomorrow, those should make a few people smile
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
Cosy!
ITB'd MK1
Mustang, S13, AX GT
It sounds good and its still lighter than the interior bits removed tho
Harsh but fair LOL.
Golf GTI PP Mk7
i dont see the point in stripping the interior back to the metal, then loading up on sound-system stuff tbh.
however, that car is gonna go like sh1t off the preverbial shovel anyway.
however, that car is gonna go like sh1t off the preverbial shovel anyway.
Mustang, S13, AX GT
^Originally there wasn't gonna be a sound system in it I bought it to track sl*g it but I cant afford to keep my clio anymore so this will be my daily driver until I have some money under me again, when the sound system will come back out and go into a new daily driver and I can get back to tracking the S13. I guess it could be rat, although not rusty enough just yet
ITB'd MK1
and it's the best colour. Loved my morello s13
Mustang, S13, AX GT
Right, I have been halted by lack of monies again in terms of gettin the mechanicals working basically because when my friend comes to do the turbo i need the money to tax, mot and insure the SX to drive him back home, to cornwall, so it should be a good test to see if we have truly fixed it or not lol.
I have been getting itchy fingers and wanted to keep on going with my project so for the time being I'm turning my attention to the bodywork, if you cant be bothered reading back or have forgot it has a few 'niggles'...
The biggest problem that I'm still not sure how to tackle myself is the rear quarter panel:
I'm not starting on this yet because I want some advice from the local bodyshop first but I'm thinking of pulling it out with a slide hammer and then skimming it, but I've never used a slide hammer, glass fibre or filler before, so it should be interesting...
The next big issue is the boot, with holes from where a spoiler used to be and f**ked paint. I'm gonna sand the rust off around the holes tomorrow then start prepping it for paint, and on saturday I will be attempting to fibre glass over the holes then smooth it down, quick skim of filler and paint. So the boot should be updated from tomorrow onwards with hopefully a finished product my monday heh...
The easier bit, and therefore my starting point for today is the roof, as this is just paint issues which I can sort out. Sadly I forgot to get any full pictures before I started but basically the laquer is peeling off and the are a few scratches, also some of the paint is fading/cracking/bubbling.
I have started to sand the paint down on the roof, at first I tried 240 on there as I just wanted to take away the lacquer. This was proving to be a huge task as there were parts of the roof where the paint and lacquer is perfect making it a ball ache to take off by hand, so very quickly I switched to a power sander with 120 grit done over again by hand with the 240.
I am going to have to take this quite slowly as I have asthma and eczema (lucky me) which is why I never went to be a tech or work in the bodyshop in the 1st place, it gets painfull...
I have gone over half of the roof now with the 120, I'm just touching over with the 240 now and its coming out pretty well so far, the rest of the roof will be sanded tomorrow and then I'm gonna go over it with some 400. The question will then be is 400 enough and I can hammerite it or should I go to 800 then 1200 wet and dry and rattle can it? Meh, I'll decide when Im shopping tomorrow for paint. If I do a terrible enough job it can alway go into a body shop at a later point...
I have been getting itchy fingers and wanted to keep on going with my project so for the time being I'm turning my attention to the bodywork, if you cant be bothered reading back or have forgot it has a few 'niggles'...
The biggest problem that I'm still not sure how to tackle myself is the rear quarter panel:
I'm not starting on this yet because I want some advice from the local bodyshop first but I'm thinking of pulling it out with a slide hammer and then skimming it, but I've never used a slide hammer, glass fibre or filler before, so it should be interesting...
The next big issue is the boot, with holes from where a spoiler used to be and f**ked paint. I'm gonna sand the rust off around the holes tomorrow then start prepping it for paint, and on saturday I will be attempting to fibre glass over the holes then smooth it down, quick skim of filler and paint. So the boot should be updated from tomorrow onwards with hopefully a finished product my monday heh...
The easier bit, and therefore my starting point for today is the roof, as this is just paint issues which I can sort out. Sadly I forgot to get any full pictures before I started but basically the laquer is peeling off and the are a few scratches, also some of the paint is fading/cracking/bubbling.
I have started to sand the paint down on the roof, at first I tried 240 on there as I just wanted to take away the lacquer. This was proving to be a huge task as there were parts of the roof where the paint and lacquer is perfect making it a ball ache to take off by hand, so very quickly I switched to a power sander with 120 grit done over again by hand with the 240.
I am going to have to take this quite slowly as I have asthma and eczema (lucky me) which is why I never went to be a tech or work in the bodyshop in the 1st place, it gets painfull...
I have gone over half of the roof now with the 120, I'm just touching over with the 240 now and its coming out pretty well so far, the rest of the roof will be sanded tomorrow and then I'm gonna go over it with some 400. The question will then be is 400 enough and I can hammerite it or should I go to 800 then 1200 wet and dry and rattle can it? Meh, I'll decide when Im shopping tomorrow for paint. If I do a terrible enough job it can alway go into a body shop at a later point...
Mustang, S13, AX GT
Ok the roofs sanded down and I decided to go with hammerite. Sadly halfords only had black in a tin so I bought a tin thinking I can brush it and if necessary I can wet and dry it flat...
But when I got home all I could find was a paint roller, however again if the finish is as horrible as I expect I can wet and dry it flat. So I got on with it...
1st up was cleaning the roof of all the dust and crap from sanding it down:
One side of the roof may have been painted before because the roof skin seems thinner and there are some marks through the paint, however when cleaned the roof was nice and smooth and ready for paint despite not looking it:
So roof clean and ready for paint I masked off the windows ready for paint:
Its getting quite late so I put on a coat with the roller, and decided the roller was the worst idea ever. But 1 coat on I figure I gotta stick with it and if worse comes to worse i can sand it back then prime it and use the rattle cans of gloss black i have lying around and hope theres enough paint left in there...
I have put on a 2nd coat now and it appears to be coming out ok but light is fading so I'll have to check it tomorrow and finish the roof. Once the roof is done tomorrow I'm sanding down the boot and hammeriting that also....
But when I got home all I could find was a paint roller, however again if the finish is as horrible as I expect I can wet and dry it flat. So I got on with it...
1st up was cleaning the roof of all the dust and crap from sanding it down:
One side of the roof may have been painted before because the roof skin seems thinner and there are some marks through the paint, however when cleaned the roof was nice and smooth and ready for paint despite not looking it:
So roof clean and ready for paint I masked off the windows ready for paint:
Its getting quite late so I put on a coat with the roller, and decided the roller was the worst idea ever. But 1 coat on I figure I gotta stick with it and if worse comes to worse i can sand it back then prime it and use the rattle cans of gloss black i have lying around and hope theres enough paint left in there...
I have put on a 2nd coat now and it appears to be coming out ok but light is fading so I'll have to check it tomorrow and finish the roof. Once the roof is done tomorrow I'm sanding down the boot and hammeriting that also....
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
A household paint roller? Late April Fools? LOL
Can you not sell you interior, ICE crap and then use that money to get it dorted properly in a bodyshop?
Can you not sell you interior, ICE crap and then use that money to get it dorted properly in a bodyshop?
BMW M4; S1000 RR
Comedy!
I started reading the begining of the thread until I saw a post from Ollie! How old?!
I started reading the begining of the thread until I saw a post from Ollie! How old?!
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
Sand it back to the bare metal and start again FTW?
ITB'd MK1
you're a f**king legend TBH. reminds me of the original driftworks s14 circa 2002, hand rollered in blackboard paint
Tried barrier cream, unpowdered vinyl gloves etc? Some of the techs I've worked with in the past suffer dermatitis (sp) etc and get round it.
Mustang, S13, AX GT
Barrier cream works for about half an hour lol, then it fails again. Gloves dont work because my hands sweat then itch anyway. A suggestion made when I went to be a tech at Citroen was wool gloves with rubber gloves over the top but again my hands just got sweaty and horrible... Tried everything I could think of and it failed.
The roller isn't the best and fortunately my neighbours would probably think its the right way forward tbh lol. The interior went to the scrappies months ago otherwise it would be back in the car now
If I had money then I would have bought some decent primer and paints and used rattle cans, which may be the way forward in future. Sanding back to bare metal and doing properly in the future, ftw Some more updates to follow, roller = pain in the ass for painting cars, orange peel ftl. sand paper ftw...
Mustang, S13, AX GT
Todays work:
ummm, 3rd coat applied:
I actually dont think oranges have as bad an orange peel effect:
So after the paint had dried this afternoon I started attacking it with 1500grit, didnt wet sand it because I just wanna get it smooth then I can paint it again, the result is a smooth orange peel look:
So tomorrow comes the big decision, night in town and live with orange peel, its not like its ever gonna be a show car or dont drink tomorrow and go and buy some spray. Its a dilemma, Im thinking orange peel I can live with but a night out watching everyone else get drunk as i sit sober may kill me...
Anywho, on with the boot...
Tape off, holes exposed:
Some of the rust is pretty bad around the holes, so I went at it with 120 grit:
however as you can see its not taking all the rust off so down to halfords again and I got some rust treatment and some body filler so I can treat the rust, I have applied the rust treatment as it says on the bottle and I am supposed to leave it on over night so I'll wash it off tomorrow and wire brush the rust, then its on with sanding it and on with the glass fibre:
I've never used fibre glass before so I'm not sure what to do, if I put the fibre glass on top of the boot wont it end up with a ridge or raising it from the bodywork? My dad suggests putting the fibre glass on the underside of the boot and then using the filler on the top so it'll go smooth. If any-one could advise me it would be appreciated, ideally the holes would be welded I know but theres no way I can get it welded. Thanks...
ummm, 3rd coat applied:
I actually dont think oranges have as bad an orange peel effect:
So after the paint had dried this afternoon I started attacking it with 1500grit, didnt wet sand it because I just wanna get it smooth then I can paint it again, the result is a smooth orange peel look:
So tomorrow comes the big decision, night in town and live with orange peel, its not like its ever gonna be a show car or dont drink tomorrow and go and buy some spray. Its a dilemma, Im thinking orange peel I can live with but a night out watching everyone else get drunk as i sit sober may kill me...
Anywho, on with the boot...
Tape off, holes exposed:
Some of the rust is pretty bad around the holes, so I went at it with 120 grit:
however as you can see its not taking all the rust off so down to halfords again and I got some rust treatment and some body filler so I can treat the rust, I have applied the rust treatment as it says on the bottle and I am supposed to leave it on over night so I'll wash it off tomorrow and wire brush the rust, then its on with sanding it and on with the glass fibre:
I've never used fibre glass before so I'm not sure what to do, if I put the fibre glass on top of the boot wont it end up with a ridge or raising it from the bodywork? My dad suggests putting the fibre glass on the underside of the boot and then using the filler on the top so it'll go smooth. If any-one could advise me it would be appreciated, ideally the holes would be welded I know but theres no way I can get it welded. Thanks...
Mustang, S13, AX GT
Todays updates:
The roof, is a disaster to be frank. Rollers should never ever be used for painting cars and so when I can be arsed its getting rattle canned... This disappointment out of the way onto the holes in the boot. My friend came over today with a glass fibre kit and so we got on with covering the holes. Both being completely new to it we decided the plan was a strip on top of the boot and a strip underneath the holes too, then some body filler and then sand it smooth...
1st things 1st, get some fibre on the boot:
then apply hardener over the top of the fibre:
Leaving a result similar to this:
repeat:
Leave any previous used 'bodywork tools' on window and show a boot with no holes in it:
And then repeat this on the underside:
Then leave the Glass Fibre to harden.
We went for a drink and left it to harden and it forms as GRP (?). When we came back out to the car it was hard as a rock on the boot so my mate decided a quick skim of filler over the GRP was the way forward and I agreed...
I got the filler out and we sorted out a clean and non absorbant mixing tray, then he mixed some filler. I ask if he has read the instructions or if he knows what he is doing and the reply is he knows what he's doing, he saw it on TV :S
With the filler mixed he applied it to the glass fibre on the boot:
Then we left it to harden:
My decision was that the rear windscreen wiper was using a small wiper blade pinched from a Suzuki Ignis with a washer that doesn't work. All this considered the wiper has been removed and the wiper motor taken off leaving a big hole in the boot GRP'd over aswell. If this goes well, maybe I'll look to take the big fcuking aerial off the side of the car and smoothing that also...
By this point it was defo beer o'clock so this is to be continued tomorrow. I think I'm gonna need to spend some time with the sandpaper to get it perfectly smooth but hopefully it wont be too bad. I'll get up early tomorrow and crack on with it and hopefully by tomorrow afternoon I'll have a nice smooth boot with no holes and then I can mask it off and get some primer on it. I have some rattle cans lying around so I think I'll paint the boot properly, it'll take a bit longer but hopefully it'll come up well in the finish.
The roof, is a disaster to be frank. Rollers should never ever be used for painting cars and so when I can be arsed its getting rattle canned... This disappointment out of the way onto the holes in the boot. My friend came over today with a glass fibre kit and so we got on with covering the holes. Both being completely new to it we decided the plan was a strip on top of the boot and a strip underneath the holes too, then some body filler and then sand it smooth...
1st things 1st, get some fibre on the boot:
then apply hardener over the top of the fibre:
Leaving a result similar to this:
repeat:
Leave any previous used 'bodywork tools' on window and show a boot with no holes in it:
And then repeat this on the underside:
Then leave the Glass Fibre to harden.
We went for a drink and left it to harden and it forms as GRP (?). When we came back out to the car it was hard as a rock on the boot so my mate decided a quick skim of filler over the GRP was the way forward and I agreed...
I got the filler out and we sorted out a clean and non absorbant mixing tray, then he mixed some filler. I ask if he has read the instructions or if he knows what he is doing and the reply is he knows what he's doing, he saw it on TV :S
With the filler mixed he applied it to the glass fibre on the boot:
Then we left it to harden:
My decision was that the rear windscreen wiper was using a small wiper blade pinched from a Suzuki Ignis with a washer that doesn't work. All this considered the wiper has been removed and the wiper motor taken off leaving a big hole in the boot GRP'd over aswell. If this goes well, maybe I'll look to take the big fcuking aerial off the side of the car and smoothing that also...
By this point it was defo beer o'clock so this is to be continued tomorrow. I think I'm gonna need to spend some time with the sandpaper to get it perfectly smooth but hopefully it wont be too bad. I'll get up early tomorrow and crack on with it and hopefully by tomorrow afternoon I'll have a nice smooth boot with no holes and then I can mask it off and get some primer on it. I have some rattle cans lying around so I think I'll paint the boot properly, it'll take a bit longer but hopefully it'll come up well in the finish.
Mustang, S13, AX GT
Blackboard paint could be fun, I might do the bonnet in it and hand my mates some chalk...you're a f**king legend TBH. reminds me of the original driftworks s14 circa 2002, hand rollered in blackboard paint
Mustang, S13, AX GT
heh, hindsite is a good thing. I've done a lot of work today on the boot including various amusing tools and I now have an almost perfectly smooth boot, the only issues are a couple of cracks in the filler so obviously my friend watching TV to mix the filler, failed
I'll get some pics up tomorrow when I've painted it aswell.The roller was without a doubt the worst idea ever, however some-one on CS who has a very popular project thread told me his mate painted a VW with hammerite and a roller and then sanded it down to a mint finish, I struggle to believe this after trying lol.
The speakers work fine, the bass from them isn't as good as it would be in an enclosure but if the speakers were in a box the door wouldn't shut the speakers would stick out too far. When/if I can be bothered I might make a surround for them more for protecting them than anything because if it really really rains heavy the back of the speakers get wet, I think its rain coming through the window seals, not good...
