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The best exhaust modded 16V (custom built)





i see after market exhausts as a bit od a cop out in some way bacause at the junction of each box/font pipe its the sma ebore internaly as the OE exhaust,
therefore im thinking if a larger bore system to match the ported exhaust manifold (see other post - Internal mods) so that the large bore could be carried right the way through the system and therefore no bottlenecks at at the clamps where the mroe goes back to the smaller OE bore, so my question is if i had an full system made by powerflow etc cosisting of a straight through one box system with the box at the back and no cat or cat replacment pipe what so ever (MOT no problem for me) would that be the optimum system for maximun power?

i have heard scare storier about cars performing better with cats etc because they need the slight back pressure so that pressure is not lost with-in the enigine due to the exhaust valves not fucntioning properly?

i hope the knowlegeable one amonst use can shed some light on the subject?

remeber the engine will be modded internaly so increased exhaust effciency will be need (i assume)

hope this makes sense

lofty
 


hiya mate. There is lots of debates about what to do. Large bore, small bore, straight through, tunned lengths, tunned bends, back pressure etc etc.

Being the 16V motor, its all about revs, and at high rpm, you have high gas flow, easpecially after the burnt fuel expands into huge amounts of gas. So it most important to just get them out asap!
however, back pressure is said to give torque is tunned properly. Now, its my thinking that as the exhaust gas leaves via the exhaust port, the fast moving gas creates an area a low pressure behind the valve. Whent he induction stroke starts, this helps as there is not only the decending piston creating a low pressure zone to suck in A/F mixture, but once at its lowest, thats it, no more suck can be created. But, the fast moving maixture has velocity, and keeps filling the cylinder with the piston rising, the low pressure behind the exhaust valve now helps with better cylinder filling, sure some is lost at low rpm and looses torque, but at least is a clean mixture with no burnt gasses from the previous burn. This also helps cool the cylinder, reduceing the chance of knock (second flame fromt cause by over heated carbon deposts or plue electrodes. So, if your running lots of overlap, high rpm needs, then the backpressure is not wanted.

FOr example, the pinot need lots of overlap to reach 100bhp/ltr, but the CVH need very little, especially the EFi engines.

In your case, i would try to get rid of tha stupid 90d degree bend under the driver seat, or cut the rest of the system short and exit the pipe under the passenders door (what im doing).

You wont beable to work on tunned lenths as power flow aint that good, and not many people fully understand the pulse tunning theory (unsing the energy in the created soundwaves, not of the combustion, but that created by the gas moving, and starts from the valve). But different length pipes creates different power curves, but there will always be one bad sport on a tunned engine, it all down to where you move it with the induction and exhaust system.

I wouldnt go above 2 1/4" bore, and thats still largeish. Remember to use mandrel bent pipes, weld them together But remove the weld inside the pipe)rather than clamp (as you have said), 1 or 2 competition silencers (better flow), ANd basically, commonsense.
 


i saw (through a link on this site) a place selling competition exhausts, mils steel one box systems, i dont know how much desing and research went into these sytems, they also did tubular steel manifolds as a replacment, i dont know if the were of an easy sweep design (no sharp bends) and i dont have link anymore,

anyone know where it was?
 


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