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Turbo project!!!

You could take it off
Mybe block pipe that goes to manifold.
Remove the top of the canistor and leave the sensor plugged in?

What do you say danny?
 
stevo172-RWD said:
You could take it off
Mybe block pipe that goes to manifold.
Remove the top of the canistor and leave the sensor plugged in?

What do you say danny?
Click to expand...
when you block the pipe it just stalls. If i did that wouldnt it be the same as if i had no pipe at all
 
You beat me to it!

It's fly by so it's been mapped with an air leak!
So when you stop the leak there's no air flowing past the motorized bodie?
 
stevo172-RWD said:
You beat me to it!

It's fly by so it's been mapped with an air leak!
So when you stop the leak there's no air flowing past the motorized bodie?
Click to expand...
Will have to get that checked then.
Its still dropping boost started doing it again i thought i had fixed it so going to test lines tomorrow
 
It was mapped with a different engine so does that mean the other engine might have had a air leak
 
Ryan k said:
Will have to get that checked then.
Its still dropping boost started doing it again i thought i had fixed it so going to test lines tomorrow
Click to expand...

if it wont idle without the pipe, it's sucking air in thorugh the carbon canister, probably blown a 1-way valve inside that and that's your leak. Your map will be well out if it was like that when it was done
 
Will have to make sure everything is spot on and check it. What could cause a boost drop other than the pipes???
 
sideways danny said:
if it wont idle without the pipe, it's sucking air in thorugh the carbon canister, probably blown a 1-way valve inside that and that's your leak. Your map will be well out if it was like that when it was done
Click to expand...

Danny if you look at the pipe that came off mine you see Bbpt had a one way valve installed.
Mybe the carbon canistor does not have a very good/or no one way valve?
 
stevo172-RWD said:
Danny if you look at the pipe that came off mine you see Bbpt had a one way valve installed.
Mybe the carbon canistor does not have a very good/or no one way valve?
Click to expand...
Dont think it has a one way valve on that line or in canister at all.
 
Ryan k said:
Will have to make sure everything is spot on and check it. What could cause a boost drop other than the pipes???
Click to expand...

Lots of things.
Leaks.
Dump valve
Map -if it's overboosting what it been mapped at
Feels like all power goes for a moment then boost builds up again
 
Im thinking the controller is rubish and its set to 0.6 but it dont work proper at first
 
So your using a boost controller then?
But what is the ecu map set to?
Mine was 0.6bar when I did some fiddling tho it went to 0.8bar then just shut off throttle for a moment
 
stevo172-RWD said:
So your using a boost controller then?
But what is the ecu map set to?
Mine was 0.6bar when I did some fiddling tho it went to 0.8bar then just shut off throttle for a moment
Click to expand...
ye its got a controller on it at the mine a manual one. It was mapped for 0.6 but was checked yesterday an was fine to be at 1 bar.
 
Anyone got any ideas why the engine stalls when i cover the vacuum hole up when on a standard 182 it dont. Everything on the engine is a 182 now so why does it still not work without the vacuum pipe off
 
maps been altered to take that leak into account. trouble is, if you fix the leak to regain the power at the top end, the map needs re-doing. shitty stock ECU
 
Yep... needs mapping from scratch really!

Unless you want to rig it up, and tape the open vacuum to something. lol
 
Have you fitted a 1 way valve in the brake servo line too?

Remember the servo and cabon canister would never see pressure above atmospheric on a stock car, bobby basics mate. You need to sort all these things properly and get it re-mapped.

A proper pressure test will show you the problem spots, if you dont sort these you will keep getting the same probems over and over gain, the length of pipe used isn't going to make any difference if everythings as it should be.
 
ashy_gtt said:
Have you fitted a 1 way valve in the brake servo line too?

Remember the servo and cabon canister would never see pressure above atmospheric on a stock car, bobby basics mate. You need to sort all these things properly and get it re-mapped.

A proper pressure test will show you the problem spots, if you dont sort these you will keep getting the same probems over and over gain, the length of pipe used isn't going to make any difference if everythings as it should be.
Click to expand...
The brake servo line is standard k-tec dont change them. Iv tested for boost leaks and come up with no leaks. If you unplug one injector the car runs fine lol just found that out :)
 
Ryan k said:
The brake servo line is standard k-tec dont change them. Iv tested for boost leaks and come up with no leaks. If you unplug one injector the car runs fine lol just found that out :)
Click to expand...

eh?

so there is no one way valve on the servo line?

you unplug one injector and it runs fine at idle? or are you driving it? i'm not sure what you're trying to achieve by unplugging injectors?
 
ashy_gtt said:
eh?

so there is no one way valve on the servo line?

you unplug one injector and it runs fine at idle? or are you driving it? i'm not sure what you're trying to achieve by unplugging injectors?
Click to expand...
ye there is on the standard one, not driving it no i was on drive. Not trying to achieve anything i was taking them off to see if they were running fine on idle.


Finaly sorted it changes some bits around at the min it runs perfect :)
 
Ryan k said:
ye there is on the standard one, not driving it no i was on drive. Not trying to achieve anything i was taking them off to see if they were running fine on idle.


Finaly sorted it changes some bits around at the min it runs perfect :)
Click to expand...

I really don't think you've grasped the problem, I'm not having a go but this must be the 10th time you've said you've sorted somthing then you're back on the next day with another problem! You really need to sort the basic problems out first otherwise you will cause bigger problems in the long run.

I say again changing the length of a vac pipe wont suddenly fix something, the engine will pull a vac on a short pipe or a long pipe regardless (unless one has a hole / split in it).

Again you're saying you've fixed it again by swapping a few things around, but problems don't just go away unless you sort them properly!

Take the car to someone who knows what they are doing before you blow it up again!
 
standard oe servo vaccum pipe has not got a one way valve.
It needs one otherwise it will lose boost(leak)
Pluss the servo line is there to be sucked no?
So positive pressure(boost)
Won't do the brakes any good will it?

You need to get this car checked over mate by a good garage.
I mean
Remap=
+one 1way valve£6?I think.
And also do away with carbon can and pipe.

Then it will be sorted
 
And stop taking the damn injector plugs off while it's running !
You have faults all over the dash.
 
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