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TwentyValver Project Thread



  Glanza
is this not done yet?

also

originalrockercolour.jpg


you neglected to mention this mark!
 
  ValverInBits
Thanks for the kind words everyone

is this not done yet?

also


you neglected to mention this mark!

Phil really really liked that color, I hated it, so it went.
Update in a few ticks. I've basically been without internet for ages and the project has slowed up a bit as i'm back at uni now.
 
  ValverInBits
First things first, the driveshaft story.
The idea is to end up with driveshafts of just the right length, that don't touch the chassis legs at any point in the suspension travel with a renault outboard CV and a VW inboard CV

Separated out the renault shaft from the outboard CV
P1000750.jpg


Also managed to separate out the VW inboard
P1000748.jpg


For the smaller shaft I borrowed a lathe and turned down the VW shaft so that it'd fit inside the renault.

For the larger shaft, I used a bit of sheet to bulk out the renault shaft and slot it into the VW.

Using a lot of trial and error, turning the wheels lock to lock and jumping on the car to get an idea of the full travel the shafts had to cover I eventually decided on a length and put a weld tack on each shaft.
The mock up shafts then went up to GB Engineering in Nantwich. The total cost of them in the end was a little over £300, this was reduced from about £380 because I had to wait for them so long. If i'd of known, i'd of used reco-prop in luton.

Heres the mock-ups and the finished shafts. I'm pretty pleased with them.

P1010146.jpg


P1010147.jpg


Just waiting to find another valver outboard CV (PM me if you have for cheap) before I put them on the car. The hub-nut threads are fubared on one of my originals.

Finally managed to source a G60 flywheel from winston (cheers mate :D)

P1010111.jpg


Using a G60 fly ditches the standard dual mass flywheel. I didn't know what these were until I had a play. It replaces the springs in the clutch. The clutch surface of the flywheel is allowed to rotate inside the flywheel itself on dampers.
G60 left, Dual Mass right.

P1010116.jpg


P1010120.jpg


It's common practice to use G60 flywheels with VR6 clutches to give a peak torque capability around 380-390lbft

Brand new VR6 clutch

P1010125.jpg


Clutch release bearing replaced

P1010126.jpg


And refitted the gearbox

P1010136.jpg


With the gearbox on I had the timing marks to do the cambelt. Auto-tensioners are bliss

P1010128.jpg


Trying to work out how long my Aux belt needs to be. I'm ditching the power steering pump and the water pump is on the cambelt, so it's literally just for the altenator. I've measured it at around 906mm

P1010132.jpg


Tried refitting the engine. The bracket that holds the PAS pump fowled on the subframe, so that had to go.
Grinding off cast ally is quite tough. I killed my beloved grinder. :( :( :( :cry:

P1010140.jpg


Bought a new grinder and finished the job

P1010149.jpg


Engine went back in without a glitch

P1010151.jpg


P1010152.jpg


And a big moment i've been waiting for - Had a cheeky trial fit of turbo and manifold.

P1010161.jpg


P1010162.jpg


Clearance.
It does clear. And there is enough room for engine movement (i intend to buy stiffer mounts anyway). The main worry is that the turbine is too close to the plastic vent in the bonnet :S

P1010165.jpg


P1010168.jpg


My current plan is to remove the vent and do a weld and smooth job on the bonnet. So the bulge will remain, but there won't be an indent or a vent. Initially however, I'm just going to move the bonnet catch up and have it sitting up (lovin it judd?)

Subframe

I've been sh1tting myself about this for ages. This is properly safety critical. If it's not strong enough, when I jump on the brakes, the wishbone will break loose. So i had to get it right. Its was never going to look nice, and in an ideal world i'd of designed and made a whole new subframe for the car.
This is what I've ended up with. It's similar to what flan has done with his 2. I've used a plate inside the subframe that extends the full length of the cutout. Then 2 more bits of plate bent round to cover the cut-out. Theres a further brace at the front where I was able to miss the sump. After that was done, I welded a 3mm wall thickness f*kin Girder on the bottom to make sure. I'm glad I left this till now, as my welding has really improved and i was pleased with the outcome. The box section will be closed to finish.



P1010176.jpg


P1010179.jpg


P1010189.jpg


P1010194.jpg


P1010195.jpg


C+C welcome. I'm looking for a mongoose exhaust now as the downpipe needs to be started shortly (another job for Jon Deeley who did the manifold)

Work still to do:
Subframe finish/paint/powder-coat
Downpipe
Boost piping
Oil Circuit
Water Circuit
ECU and loom
 
People wet+dry/sand them and have them polished...

I know mine is at least as I ground part of the back of it out...then blanked it off
 
  TVR Cerbera
Subframe

I've been sh1tting myself about this for ages. This is properly safety critical. If it's not strong enough, when I jump on the brakes, the wishbone will break loose. So i had to get it right. Its was never going to look nice, and in an ideal world i'd of designed and made a whole new subframe for the car.

all you have to do now is worry about the strength of the rest of the renault subframe, lol

Liking the driveshafts
 
  Glanza
turbo looks good, like i mentioned on msn perhaps put a bit of heat reflection shiz under the bonnet as its going to get reet hot.

As for lifting the bonnet up, dont think it would suit the look of this car with its none shiney FMIC and ghey wheels. Smooth over the hole is a better job, also stops drops of rain hitting your 1000 degree manifold and turbo.

But, those driveshafts... lol one is half the size of the other! you better beef up your forearms boy... this b**ch gonna squirm
 
  ValverInBits
thanks for all the comments. Also forgot to mention i've had the VW oil pressure switch port drilled and tapped to M14 to accept the standard valver oil pressure sensor. I thought that was a bit of a touch :D
 
  '92 172, Lotus Elise
i just bought an outer cv joint from buypartsby

they used to be all over ebay for about £15, but not any more :/
 
  ValverInBits
This will be awesome once finished!

What sort of power are you looking to run?

not straight answer really. The original spec was good for about 340, then I had money troubles, the new spec is good for around 280.
I hope to fit my forged rods, drop the compression, stronger clutch, and 430/440cc injectors and go for the limit of the turbo which is safely around 340, but that's when I've got the cash to do it. :dapprove: Plate LSD is on the list too
 
  ValverInBits
I'm trying to get my hands on a drive belt (aux belt, alternator belt whatever. I'm not running the PAS pump so it's custom length

I went to halfords yesterday, but they said they can't search their database on length. I even had to point out to them the code system of the belts they already had on the shelf that gave length in mm and then "g" which means 6 rib.

I've measured it as a 6 rib 906mm, So I think I need some thing around 910mm, the 923 I got from halfords yesterday is too long really, it'd just work though.

Where can i buy a custom length belt? On the web or at a shop?
 
  ValverInBits
I'll give them a call, but arent they like everyone else and can only search on car not belt length?

edit: nowhere is open on a sunday :(

edit: the halfords belt I got was a HB925g 925mm
 
  E92 M3 Monte Carlo
i had to get a shorter one for my mk1 hybrid,i went to road runner and they had loads of different lengths
 
Any local factors should stock them or will be able to get them with ease....I have had custom lengths for mine, 855mm and 870mm 5rib etc
 
  Williams20V-306BHP
Looking good so far... liking the turbo position.. very good!

for the belt. I cut the old one and wrapped it round the pullys to calculate the length. I think with your measurment it may be to short, then i laid it flat and measured it.

Halfords are retards!! it says what length they are on the box and on the belt... they have loads in stock.. i got mine from there.

intresting to see the cut out for the sump.. i had to cut a little more than that. Have you had to modify the other side. Its very close on mine to the bolts under the gearbox.

Flan
 
  ValverInBits
Looking good so far... liking the turbo position.. very good!

for the belt. I cut the old one and wrapped it round the pullys to calculate the length. I think with your measurment it may be to short, then i laid it flat and measured it.

Halfords are retards!! it says what length they are on the box and on the belt... they have loads in stock.. i got mine from there.

intresting to see the cut out for the sump.. i had to cut a little more than that. Have you had to modify the other side. Its very close on mine to the bolts under the gearbox.

Flan

The cut-out is fairly tight. I'm banking on not a lot of engine movement, and I'm considering VF engineering mounts to replace the VAG ones.
The gearbox oil drain on the other side is currently sat on the subframe, and I've had to remove the N/S bolt. I'm going to have to take a slight nick out of the subframe to get it in properly, but it really won't be a problem.
910mm is about the shortest I'd go. I reckon a 915 would be about perfect, but the 923 is certinally too long.

yoof, thanks for the helpful comments :rasp: I'm considering a turbine jacket.
 
  Polo G40 & Clio 17Poo
Personally I'd leave the vent there (possibly without the plastic) rain won't hurt the turbo when hot, providing you keep it in the garage most of the time should be reet.
 
  ValverInBits
Getting really busy now so progress is slowing massively. But I've managed to get the car 6 miles (don't ask) to John Deeley to have my downpipe made up. Car is now back again and the downpipe just came off to have the lambda boss put in.
It's all stainless, even the lambda boss. 2.5inch, then bolts straight onto the mongoose. No cat required as shell is 1992.

P1010259.jpg


P1010260.jpg


Next on the list is to sort the gear mech. It's a cable gear shift, the one I currently have was pulled from a B4 Passat. Flan did his first one very stealth and mounted up the gear mech in the OEM location even with a renault gaitor and gearknob. I've decided that i'd rather have the gearstick nice and high right up next to the steering wheel (more go than show). I've had a play with some mounting ideas, but not enough time to try any yet.
More on this when I'm less busy :(
 
  Williams20V-306BHP
How come you went for a 2.5" not 2.75" or 3" will 2.5 not hinder the gt28 at higher revs. also how much was it.. it looks v v nice (pm if u like)
 
This is a pretty damn awesome project :cool:

Though if you ever sell it, the person looking after it will have a b**ch of a time working out what replacement parts he needs LOL
 


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