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URGENT HELP NEEDED - AST Mounts



  ITB BG 182
Right i need some help on how these dam things go on the car.
Here a picture below.

image0099.jpg


Is this the right order?
Spring OEM platform little brass nut thing then ast platform (big one) then through the car with the little plate and 3 allen key screws keeping it in bay.

If i am wrong can some one tell me in what order it all goes from spring tho strut to every thing.

Also what size juby clip is it for the cv boot.
 
  182 Cup
So you're trying to use AST top mounts with OE suspension struts? I tried to do this earlier today - failed miserably. I couldn't get the thread to protrude through the top mount enough to get a nut on it. You getting the same problem?
 
  #174
Is that brass nut the only one that came with your mounts (ie the 'old style' ones)? If so they shouldn't be there, they're for the top.

If you're having problems I'd try removing the brass nut and the thing underneath that on your oem sus. Then just put the black ast bit on you currently have fitted. Then the large orange piece goes on. That all goes under the car, small orange piece goes on top and it's secured together with the 3 nuts. Brass nut goes on the top to hold the damper in place. The order of the parts on your oem damper I've mentioned is a complete guess, but could be worth a try!

Jubilee is 90-120mm off the top of my head.
 
  172 Ph1, Lupo GTI
as far as I am aware you will need to take out the brass nut. Thats a standard part and is not needed. The Black AST collar will then seat on the standard spring hat. This will then allow you to fit the larger anodised part using the top nut supplied. You can then fit to the car using the smaller anodised part.
 
  Renaultsport 220T
So you're trying to use AST top mounts with OE suspension struts? I tried to do this earlier today - failed miserably. I couldn't get the thread to protrude through the top mount enough to get a nut on it. You getting the same problem?

Why are you fitting OE suspension?
:dapprove:
 
  S3, Polo
as far as I am aware you will need to take out the brass nut. Thats a standard part and is not needed. The Black AST collar will then seat on the standard spring hat. This will then allow you to fit the larger anodised part using the top nut supplied. You can then fit to the car using the smaller anodised part.

I'm doing this now too - so we don't need the new AST top hat (part 4, below) when fitting to an OE setup>??

The bit on the right, here:
DSC01134.gif


PARTS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT (IN THE ABOVE PIC) - (1a & 1b) - (2) - (3) - (4)

Standard OE Spring Top Hat --------> AST Bearing (3) ---------> AST Black Top Bit (2) -----------> AST Mount (1a) -------------> Through The Strut, Then The Top Ring (1b + 3x Allen bolts)?
 
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  S3, Polo
^ The bearing is in the large anodised bit, non?

My issue is that the f*cking nut only has thread at the top of it - the threads on OE dampers are about 1cm too short!

Arghhhh!!

EDIT - It appears that the 'extra machining' required for an OE setup hasn't been done to mine!

FFS.

The black collar that locates in the bottom of the large, anodised bearing carrier *should* seemingly, have a larger diameter - to allow it to sit on the non-threaded part of the damper shaft. Currently, this is the cause of the problem.

Where's my phone - Kam, you're getting a call...

I'm seriously f*cking irritated.
 
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DMS

  A thirsty 172
^ The bearing is in the large anodised bit, non?

My issue is that the f*cking nut only has thread at the top of it - the threads on OE dampers are about 1cm too short!

Arghhhh!!

EDIT - It appears that the 'extra machining' required for an OE setup hasn't been done to mine!

FFS.

The black collar that locates in the bottom of the large, anodised bearing carrier *should* seemingly, have a larger diameter - to allow it to sit on the non-threaded part of the damper shaft. Currently, this is the cause of the problem.

Where's my phone - Kam, you're getting a call...

I'm seriously f*cking irritated.

I was round at John's earlier trying to lend a hand fitting them and this is exactly what we found. The shock is simply too low down to get the hub bolts back into. The bottom of it won't clear the driveshaft.
It looks like the black collar should sit on the non-threaded part of the OE shock, which in turn would allow the large part of the top mount to sit further down as well. Then, when fitted back on, it'd be possible to actually get the hub bolts back in.
 
  Ph1 172 & meg 225 lu
I could help but would need to have all the bits infrint of me to figure it out, it's trial and error, ring power station they can help you
 
  ITB BG 182
Well i will give it another go in the morning an if it does not go in then i will have a go with the orignal OEM bits to fix it in. IF the OEM bits goes straight in and there is no problems then it will stay OEM an i will be after a full refund.

I am horrified that a company such as AST was not bothered to try this sort of product out more an fully investigate its applications.
 
  ITB BG 182
Yea i stated it was for OE setup, i have been told that it was machined for OE setup aswell. I spent quiet a while on the phone to Kev from Kam today and have all the parts in the right order to fix together.
 
  182 Cup
Can you get a pic of the underside of the orange anodised part (the larger part that sits under the turret)? I'll compare to mine which was for the AST coilovers which are currently off the car and see if there is any difference.
 
  ITB BG 182
Can you get a pic of the underside of the orange anodised part (the larger part that sits under the turret)? I'll compare to mine which was for the AST coilovers which are currently off the car and see if there is any difference.
Will have to be tomorrow morning around 9am.
 
  #174
I was round at John's earlier trying to lend a hand fitting them and this is exactly what we found. The shock is simply too low down to get the hub bolts back into. The bottom of it won't clear the driveshaft.
It looks like the black collar should sit on the non-threaded part of the OE shock, which in turn would allow the large part of the top mount to sit further down as well. Then, when fitted back on, it'd be possible to actually get the hub bolts back in.

Sounds like you need to assemble them as Kam mentioned. So you want the oe top hat (that sits directly on top of the spring) then the black ast piece, then the large orange piece.

I'd then try using spring compressors to compress the spring, just enough so you can get the hub bolts in. Once these are fitted, take the spring compressors out, and use the weight of the car to compress the spring. That should give you enough thread to get the smaller orange piece and brass nut on top?

Only thing I notice about this design is that there's nothing securing the spring top hat in place (ie to keep the spring under tension if removed). Shouldn't be an issue unless maybe when the sus is removed.
 
  ITB BG 182
This is the thing i dont get, people saying the top nut holding it in place. the only thing keeping the lot in place within the actual strut is the little plate bit with 3 allen key bolts.
How i have tried it this morning is Spring OE top hat, ast collar (2nd item across in neros post) then the first part of the mount and all secured in with the new type nut.
Now believe me that nut is as far down as it will go.
the difference between getting the hub bolt in is the same height as the ast collar thing.
IE this :-
collaren.jpg


Inferno - go back to bed, i will take a picture but i need to sort the cv boot first then im sticking the OE bits back on and if it goes straight in and on then its staying OE.
 
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marc1330

ClioSport Club Member
  Hill lover
I fitted mine on thurs won OE without too much of an issue wish i took pics now.
I built up whole strut off of the car so on the shock you have the spring that i fully compressed. Then the OE spring platform, followed by the black AST collar.
Thirdly the lower ( larger) part of the anodised mount was fitted on top of the collar and secured with the big brass nut that is supplied. If the shock is fully extended and the spring compressed the bolt should fly on.
Uncompress the spring offer up the car then secure to the car with the top part of the mount with the three allen bolts.
Thats how i did mine and they seem ok although im not majorly impressed the car seems to hunt out every fault in the road surface now but they probably need setting up properly.

How do you all run them im currently running with the bolts at 6 o'clock.
Also does anyone notice the allen bolts have worked loose at all?
 

marc1330

ClioSport Club Member
  Hill lover
Only thing I notice about this design is that there's nothing securing the spring top hat in place (ie to keep the spring under tension if removed). Shouldn't be an issue unless maybe when the sus is removed.

Im a bit confused/hungover :dead: but the large brass nut secures everything i thought i built my strut up on the drive before fitting to the car
 
  172 cup
running mine at 3 o'clock. Max - camber. Yes they do now pick out every little bump in round but is what I expected going from OE rubber to solid metal
 
  172 cup
Im a bit confused/hungover :dead: but the large brass nut secures everything i thought i built my strut up on the drive before fitting to the car

+1 didnt understand that myself, the large (newly supplied) brass nut does secure everything
 
  ITB BG 182
Well i tried it the way marc 1330 has said. But when it come to matching the holes up on the hub to the bottom of the arm it was a F'ing nightmare, about 3 inches apart an could not get them near each other.
I tried to put the OE mounts back on an it was a dodle, even took it to a mates garage and stuck it on the ramps but even he could not get the things to fit all in.
 
  172 Ph1, Lupo GTI
It appears that the 'extra machining' required for an OE setup hasn't been done to mine!

everyone that informed us that they needed it for the OE style setup had their kit machined for it. As the picture you posted contains the parts 3 and 4 it appears you have got the coilover version of the kit so I can only assume we were not informed by yourself that it was for the OE style setup..

If you send me a PM with the name the order was placed in I will get a set of the OE style collars sent out to you.
 
  172 cup
as far as I am aware you will need to take out the brass nut. Thats a standard part and is not needed. The Black AST collar will then seat on the standard spring hat. This will then allow you to fit the larger anodised part using the top nut supplied. You can then fit to the car using the smaller anodised part.

can you can confirm that you dont use the oe bearing or the ast plastic bearing on OE set up?
 

marc1330

ClioSport Club Member
  Hill lover
I can confirm thats how mine are fitted. Spring platform, black AST collar, then Lower part of the mount all secured with supplied nut. Offered up to car then secured with upper part of the mount with the allen bolts
Thats strange john mine lined up a piece of piss when i re-fitted the strut.
I took the car to work today and good 50 mile round trip and all seems well so far !!
 
  172 cup
May swop over to that from my machined oe top hats to accept the ast bearing and unmachind collar then. Now have machined collar . . .
 

marc1330

ClioSport Club Member
  Hill lover
Has anyone noticed anything when on full lock. When im on full lock it feels like the wheels are scrabbling for grip not a nice feeling at all.
 


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