brisa4984
ClioSport Club Member
yeh mate was just seeing this on their sight and watched a few youtube vids.. i think its wicked! must resist!!!!!!!
any thoughts on the portable one?
ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
yeh mate was just seeing this on their sight and watched a few youtube vids.. i think its wicked! must resist!!!!!!!
any thoughts on the portable one?
Alex a word of caution about using Tripple under Zaino if that was the plan. The finish will be stunning but it might compromise the durability of the Zaino a little.
Johnny at Zaino will tell you the same of course. Just incase the Zaino fails a bit quicker than say 6 months it may be because of the Carnauba in the Tripple.
Love the Zaino system. Need to get a new Z8 soon.
Johnny at Zaino will tell you the same of course. Just incase the Zaino fails a bit quicker than say 6 months it may be because of the Carnauba in the Tripple.
Love the Zaino system. Need to get a new Z8 soon.
Golf GT & A4 Avant
Interested in your thoughts of oblitarate compared to tardis, i use very little and would never need 5l of it, so if this works as good or better would be an option for me
I used it today when removing a few stickers, the glue was removed easily. i also spotted a few tar marks on the car so used it there and again near enough as soon as obliterate hit the tar it softened.
Ive never used Tardis as like yourself i have no need for 5L of the stuff, but it is much better than AG T&GR and Autobrite Just the Tonic.
Quick question, i have wolfs glass guard on my windscreen at the moment however i would like to change it to G5 as i am doing less motorway miles now. whats the best way of removing wolfs? I was thinking soak in APC then clay, IPA, IPA?
Ive never used Tardis as like yourself i have no need for 5L of the stuff, but it is much better than AG T&GR and Autobrite Just the Tonic.
Quick question, i have wolfs glass guard on my windscreen at the moment however i would like to change it to G5 as i am doing less motorway miles now. whats the best way of removing wolfs? I was thinking soak in APC then clay, IPA, IPA?
Clio 182, Astra Sri
ClAy your windows
APC, clay, G4 glass polish then apply.
Fiesta ST200
Cheers mate, I never knew that! Shouldn't be a problem as I will be cleaning it and topping it up a lot
Picked up some site lights today for a decent price, as well as some new overhead lights for the garage.
Oblitarate is perfectly good enough tbh.
Tardis works quicker and hits the bigger spots abit better.
Oblitarate is very very close 2nd IMO.
I was quite impressed with purple rain, it take a little longer than iron x to work however I've hit the wheels with PR and then Iron x afterwards and iron x hasn't picked anything else up.
Toby you probably already know I spotted these in the Autobrite summer sale thing:
http://www.autobritedirect.co.uk/in...6-in-300-gsm-buffing-towels-12-pack-blue.html
Though postage is about £5 from them!
Or there's the group buy on Eurows on DW!
Golf GT & A4 Avant
It's been confirmed that C1 is C4 is C5. All the same product. Any will work just fine
So you'd just advise putting C5 on and leave it. No buffing at all?
Clio 182, Astra Sri
Aren't people annoyed that gtechniq are labelling the same product differently lol
What gives?
What gives?
Golf GT & A4 Avant
You apply it wrong to your wheels and trim, it's not the end of the world. Get it wrong on a painted panel and its a costly or time consuming mistake that they don't want the general public coming back to them complaining when it only really comes down to user error. They're all priced the same so not really an issue
What is there to get annoyed about, pretty clever and self preservation if you ask me
What is there to get annoyed about, pretty clever and self preservation if you ask me
I suppose if it's all the same stuff, you should only need one bottle, rather than 3.
E.g buying 25ml over 15ml is cheaper per ml, which would save people money if its all marketed as the same thing - in theory.
Clio 182, Astra Sri
http://
http://http://www.cuprasport.co.uk/hexlogic/hexlogic_guide_2.pdfHex logic pad guide
White is the polishing pad, has light cutting capabilities, but level of cut can depend on what polish you are using also.
By your avatar I assume your looking at removing swirls on a BMW, which are known for having fairly hard paint, so a compounding pad and an abrasive polish. Then work your way up to ac
http://http://www.cuprasport.co.uk/hexlogic/hexlogic_guide_2.pdfHex logic pad guide
White is the polishing pad, has light cutting capabilities, but level of cut can depend on what polish you are using also.
By your avatar I assume your looking at removing swirls on a BMW, which are known for having fairly hard paint, so a compounding pad and an abrasive polish. Then work your way up to ac
Last edited:
I can imagine it did!
Are they not getting grief over the products being the same then (If they are exactly the same), or is it not widely known?
Are they not getting grief over the products being the same then (If they are exactly the same), or is it not widely known?
I don't think the old formulations were the same were they? C5 especially.
My understanding is that with the new forumulations they've isolated the core part of the product. Thus resulting in a loss of beading etc in C5, and the need for C1.5 to complete the C1. The C1.5 was in-built before
ie- Amatuers can't make cup cakes. But if you sell the sponge and the icing seperately its easier, albeit it wont look as good.
(thats just my take on things, correct me if I'm wrong)
My understanding is that with the new forumulations they've isolated the core part of the product. Thus resulting in a loss of beading etc in C5, and the need for C1.5 to complete the C1. The C1.5 was in-built before
ie- Amatuers can't make cup cakes. But if you sell the sponge and the icing seperately its easier, albeit it wont look as good.
(thats just my take on things, correct me if I'm wrong)
So effectively C1+C1.5 is the same as old C1?
I have no idea btw, I don't really know the properties of any G-Techniq products, just that the end result is pretty similar on the different surfaces with water behaviour and longevity.
That's why it doesnt surprise me if they are the same!
I have no idea btw, I don't really know the properties of any G-Techniq products, just that the end result is pretty similar on the different surfaces with water behaviour and longevity.
That's why it doesnt surprise me if they are the same!
Golf GT & A4 Avant
One or two got a bit annoyed for some reason, it has been discussed quite a bit on DW. But TBH what difference does it make? The prices per ml worked out the same when buying the same amounts, so costs weren't different. You could have bought it from one of their retailers if you really wanted C1 when you couldn't get it from GT direct.
They never said they were different, just didn't offer it in a bottle for non pro's direct for use on paint, so in theory suggesting to you that you shouldn't use it on paint but not actually saying so.
I bought C4 and C5, used them separately on plastic and wheels, then bought C1. When I got another set of alloys I finished off the last of my C5, then finished off the last of my C4, then started on the C1. Old formula's of C1, 4 and 5 were all the same, as are the new formula's, albeit the new C1 is sold with C1.5 as the new formula has greatly reduced water behaviour. So you can still use the new C4 or C5 on paint or on wheels and plastics and top it up with C1.5.
By breaking the products down they believe they can get a better base product of hardness, application, etc but this lost the water behaviour, so released C1.5 to bring it back up to the standards of the old C1. So in theory they claim to have a combination of C1 + C1.5 that will outperform the old C1.
IMO though, I've found the water properties to not last all that long with C1.5 on bare paint compared to a quality wax or sealant. So I'm not sure on its properties when applied over the top of a nano sealant when in theory it should be difficult for things to bond to, albeit they are designed to work together but I'm a bit skeptable.
Gally's up to speed with the latest with his insider friend / detailer of the year so sur he can fill in with more detail
You covered a lot there Dave. Spot on with why they are done the way they are done. Oroginal C1/4/5 were all the same, I personally don't see too much of a problem with it but hey ho. It's the detailing industry. It's run by marketing. If you could just see some of the mark ups!
A small note after me and Rob at GT had discussed the new C1+ I see the point in it. The simple fact remains it's not as good as old C1 imo for pure performance.
It might be easier to use, it might also last longer as a coating (not as water behavior) but the performance of C1 on it's own was simply brilliant.
I've never seen a detailing product sheet water like it did, and for so long! 9 months it was on my Frp, start of November till start of June so far, it's now sold of course but after a wash with Gwash it beads and sheets like day 1. Sadly now it's kinda lost to the confines of history so to speak.
But anyway these days i've moved away from GT as the sealants now aren't as good as other on the market. Using C1.5 defeats the whole point of C1 imo and for that reason i'm out. I would recommend their Glass sealant and leather guard etc but not their paint sealants.
Truth being it was a business decision and it cost a lot of money to buy/ship original C1, now it costs less.
These days I would recommend Cquartz paint sealant (new one on the way) and Nanolex Ultra Window sealant. Although tad more expensive than G1. Wheel sealant wise i'd be using Cquartz again and on plastic trim they have Dlux instead of GT's C4.
A small note after me and Rob at GT had discussed the new C1+ I see the point in it. The simple fact remains it's not as good as old C1 imo for pure performance.
It might be easier to use, it might also last longer as a coating (not as water behavior) but the performance of C1 on it's own was simply brilliant.
I've never seen a detailing product sheet water like it did, and for so long! 9 months it was on my Frp, start of November till start of June so far, it's now sold of course but after a wash with Gwash it beads and sheets like day 1. Sadly now it's kinda lost to the confines of history so to speak.
But anyway these days i've moved away from GT as the sealants now aren't as good as other on the market. Using C1.5 defeats the whole point of C1 imo and for that reason i'm out. I would recommend their Glass sealant and leather guard etc but not their paint sealants.
Truth being it was a business decision and it cost a lot of money to buy/ship original C1, now it costs less.
These days I would recommend Cquartz paint sealant (new one on the way) and Nanolex Ultra Window sealant. Although tad more expensive than G1. Wheel sealant wise i'd be using Cquartz again and on plastic trim they have Dlux instead of GT's C4.
