When 2 becomes 1, kangoo build incoming

[Fodda172]

Evening all, I’ve been on here 4 a while & was running a BG 172. Had it for 6 years but it’s proper rotten & I’ve not got the time nor money to fix it! So my next plan is to do a kangoo build! Say next plan I’m well into it already. Engine & running gear is out the Clio ready 2 b striped & cleaned. Will upload pics when I figure out how 2 do it

 

[Fodda172]

 

[Fodda172]

Hi all, bit of an update!
So, 2 weeks ago I removed the rear beam off the van because it was picked up on the last MOT that the rear bearing on the driver’s side was shot. I tried nipping the nut up but it still had play in it, he also said the rear bushes in the arms were split as well! Nice1 cheers 4 that .
Having got the beam on the floor I set about trying to get the torsion bars out, I already new after reading a few posts on here that it was a pig of a job! & boy you wasn’t wrong!! It took a good few hours with a sledgehammer & a peace of 30mm solid bar ground down with a point on the end to fit into the hole in the bar, after smacking the crap out of it it started to move!. It peed me off that much I nearly spat my dummy out & smashed it up!
Fast forward today, I set about stripping the hubs off to find the bearing was fxxked along with the brake shoes & wheel cylinder. Quick look online to find the price for the bits need. How much! Lol sod spending on bits when I'm braking a Clio to do the conversion. Let’s see how hard it is to convert to rear disc. After a dry run it seems to b doable!? The only problem I’ve found is the thread pitch in the beam that holds the original bk plate on are a fine thread, can anyone point me in the right direction on some countersunk bolts that will fit? Also what handbrake cable can I use for rear discs? I’ll upload some pictures next.
Long winded post I no there not all gunna b like this! Thanks 4 reading

 

[Fodda172]

 

[Fodda172]

 

[Fodda172]

 

[Fodda172]

 

[Fodda172]

 

[Fodda172]

 

[plees]

M8 x1mm is the pitch. Can usually find a countersunk screw with that pitch online. I’ve just sold the last of the ones I had.

 

[Fodda172]

M8 x1mm is the pitch. Can usually find a countersunk screw with that pitch online. I’ve just sold the last of the ones I had.

Nice1 cheers for that!

 

[Fodda172]

Wow 2023 was the last post! How time flys, family kids house work etc . Massive update on the build pictures to follow. So the boring bits, engine is out the van & sold on. Removed the kangoo sub frame along with the lower arms, hubs etc. I’ve just gone full swap with the 172 subframe because it already has the hole in the frame to take the second gearbox mount. Easy swap along with the steering rack, so job lot happy days. I’ve also fitted the Clio ABS unit along with the brake survo because the van didn’t have ABS to start with but I won’t to run it, again easy job all fits a treat, I’ve also fitted the Clio pedal box witch all lines up. So when I get loom in it’s plug & play. So far so good everything is literally unbolt of the Clio & bolt onto the van.

 

[Fodda172]

So engine wise this is what’s going in. Fully stripped & cleaned along with ARP stud & nut throughout, plus all bearing. Thicker head gasket, new exhaust & inlet valves plus valve springs, port & polish u no the score

 

[Fodda172]

In the hole

 

[Fodda172]

Loads of people have done this & to fair the mechanics side is easy! I’m gunna concentrate on the wiring side on things coz that’s what I’m struggling with, so will go picture heavy on that side

 

[Fodda172]

Evening all, question for the CS team, so the Clio 172 steering column doesn’t fit into the kangoo bulkhead inside, so I’ve put the kangoo column bk in, the 172 barrel doesn’t fit the kangoo column so I’ve had to put the kangoo barrel bk in, will I b able to use this set up with the Clio loom? Hope this makes some sort of sense,
Basically will the van key work with the Clio loom?

 

[Fodda172]

Evening all, hope everyone is well. Soooo long time no update! I totally underestimated this build, thought I could do it pretty quick but with family & work coming first we no how it is . Anyway I keep plodding on, as I’ve said before the mechanical part is pretty straightforward & the easy bit! The electrical side is very time consuming. I’ve used the Clio loom & new from the start that I had to extend the cabin loom for the rear lights because the van is longer, what I didn’t take into account was changing all the plugs for the front lights, side lights, wipers, bowers ect ect . But time & patient & that!. SO if you have read this far thank you.

I’ve tried to start the van today, but I’m not getting fuel to the rail? My set up is, Mk3 Clio top half of the sender unit because it has a return going back into the sender along with the bottom half of 172 sender unit with the 172 pump. I’m using you PH1 fuel rail as well, hence the need for the return. The pump runs but no fuel coming out the tank.

Any ideas on my problem? Thanks in advance

 

[Fodda172]

Evening all, so a quick update on the fuel pump issue, turns out it was the wiring at fault! Live & earth the wrong way round lol what a t**t.
3rd turn of the key & she berst into life! Ticks over nice & smooth with no leaks.

Next problem is……. Temperature gauge is reading half way & not moving, even when cold turn the key it goes straight to half way. Any1 had this issue & can help? I’ve not got a fooking clue

 

[Brigsy]

Disconnect the clt sensor on thermostat housing and see what coolant temp gauge reads with ign on. Its probably faulty sensor but will give you an indication if the gauge is faulty, gauge should read nothing when disconnected from memory.

 

[Fodda172]

When you unplug the temperature sensor the dash is still the same (halfway). I’ve also replaced the sensor with a gen Renault 1& still the same. I also thought it was an earth fault so to rule that out I’ve spliced into the black wire just b4 the plug & put a permanent earth onto the gearbox but still the same. Might have to look at the gauge next then

 

[Brigsy]

Stick another set of dials in.

 

[Fodda172]

I’ve got 3 sets of dials & it’s the same on all

 

[Fodda172]

Evening all happy new year!

Soooo bit of an update on this build & the ongoing problem with the temperature gauge. Quick recap, temperature gauge showing half way when u turn the key on. New gen temp sensor fitted, 3 sets of clocks fitted still the same. Tested all wires back to ECU & I’m showing voltage on 1 of the wires to the temperature sensor which I believe is right, I’ve double checked all the loom & there’s no broken wires. Had a few hours on it today looking at live data & it says water temperature is 88 degrees & outside ambient temperature is 5 degrees. Engine cold. Took the sensor out & put it in cold water & the 88 degrees didn’t change. Now, will having all the internal heating/ air conditioning disconnected make a difference? Obviously the van heating inside the cabin is different to the Clio & I don’t need that part of the loom?
Also I don’t think I’ve bled the system right, will that make a difference?
Fcuking thing is doing my head in

 

[Brigsy]

From memory temp sensor is direct to ecu and then goes to clocks via canbus.

Do the obd readings change when connecting/disconnecting the sensor? Connector pins good?

Id be tempted to try a good used ecu on it if the connection is good. Sounds like something has gone on the piss.

 

[Fodda172]

I’ve only looked at live data with the plug on the sensor, I’ll unplug it tomorrow & see what the live data says, never thought of that lol.
Yeah second hand ECU maybe a good shout

 

[Fodda172]

Hope it’s not the ECU, as I’ve had it mapped for the turbo conversion

 

[Fodda172]

Had an hour today & live data is still the same 88 degrees when unplugged from the sensor. Ffs anyone got an ECU I can use around NG235DS area? Beer tokens or cash on offer to rule it out

 

[plees]

Have you checked all earths. Had a similar issue years ago when the gearbox earth went faulty, car would start and run fine but gauges all over the place.

 

[Fodda172]

Yes mate, I’ve checked & double checked. Ive put 2 new earth cables onto the gearbox just to rule that out.