Clio 182 Turbo

[Yarp]

Edited that for you pal😉🤣

haha cheers! I’ve been liberating them from old offices at work, I’m sure they’ll notice at some point 😂😂

 

[Yarp]

The car made it off life support today and had a good run out. Ran really well with no issues. I’m managing to get fuel cut on hard corners which I’ll have to address at some point. Brakes feel fantastic now too. Pedal bite is consistent and predictable. It’s amazing the difference a wheel bearing makes 😂.

The brake ducts need a tiny bit of work too. They are only just catching on full lock. Solution for today was to not use full lock but I’ll get the heat gun on them over the weekend to bend them in ever so slightly. The R888rs have got fairly chunky sidewalls compared to the RS3s on the back so I think they would probably clear them.

Anyway, just to prove it’s actually been out here’s some pics

 

[Yarp]

I had some drizzle today and ended up with some great beading 😁.

I applied a little bit of heat onto the brake ducts and they now clear the wheels. I could see the marks where the tyres had caught so was very easy to see exactly where needed moved. It too about 5 mins each side and I’ve moved them no more than 5mm each and they are spot on.

I found a solution to the fuel cut issues too. It doesn’t seem to do it with more than 1/3 of a tank so I just need to keep it topped up. I’m doing some research into incorporating a swirl pot but most people with clios seem to run them inside the car. I’d rather avoid bringing the fuel lines inside if possible but I’m sure I’ll find something suitable.

The gearbox is also starting to offend me slightly less each time I drive it. It needs a longer 5th and ideally the gears could be slightly longer but the jc5-107 I’ve got sat in the garage could be too far the other way. I don’t want to end up with it being slower because of the longer ratios. If it wasn’t such a ball ache of a job I’d just throw it in one weekend and see how it goes but that’s not really an option.

 

[Speedo Gonzales]

I added longer ratios to my Megane when I shoved the diff in. I raced @Louis, he went from 3rd, 4th and just 5th in his 182 whilst I went from 3rd to 4th and it was nearly hitting a tonne. Honestly its great because you have enough power to pull hard all the way through the revs and actually put the boost to use

Half of the time with a boosted Clio you make peak boost by 4k and in that 3.5k rev band you've probably gone 100ft so its pointless🤣

 

[Yarp]

I added longer ratios to my Megane when I shoved the diff in. I raced @Louis, he went from 3rd, 4th and just 5th in his 182 whilst I went from 3rd to 4th and it was nearly hitting a tonne. Honestly its great because you have enough power to pull hard all the way through the revs and actually put the boost to use

Half of the time with a boosted Clio you make peak boost by 4k and in that 3.5k rev band you've probably gone 100ft so its pointless🤣

😂😂 yeah you’re right. I had a little traffic light grandprix today on a road in Mexico that definitely isn’t the a195. Honestly felt like I was in the fast and furious changing up into 27th by the time I hit a ton. It’s not just that though, the gearing is perfect for coming out of corners at 5k+ which is ideal for N/A. Now it’s boosted exiting most corners in 2nd is a total waste of time and as you say, is done in 100ft by the time I need to change but I’m almost off boost if I use 3rd.

I’m sold! I’ll just stop being soft and fit it. Might wait until the darker nights though so at least I can enjoy it for the summer.

 

[Yarp]

Tried to go for a drive tonight and the miserable c**t didn’t fancy it and wouldn’t start. It’s got electricity, the fuel pump primes, turn the key and nothing at all. No clicks or anything. The red light on the dash is out too.

Please tell me it’s a fuse? If it’s the starter motor I’ll cry. Can’t even see it never mind get access to it past the turbo and boost pipes 😂

 

[Andy P]

Have you tried the battery terminals, I had similar the other week. Took the positive terminal off, gave it a good clean with a small wire brush. Put it back on and started first time.

 

[Yarp]

Have you tried the battery terminals, I had similar the other week. Took the positive terminal off, gave it a good clean with a small wire brush. Put it back on and started first time.

gave that a go but no luck. This is what happens when it tries to start… literally nothing. Battery is fine too. Had it on the charger and it started my 5 series without an any arguments. It’s just an arse hole lol. Any other suggestions? Don’t think it’s the starter cos whenever I’ve had them die in the past I’ve at least had some clicks, this does nowt!

 

[dann2707]

Wonder if it's a wiring problem if it starts your 5 series OK. Certainly looks battery related though. Have you tried jumping from your 5 series to see if it helps?

 

[Yarp]

Wonder if it's a wiring problem if it starts your 5 series OK. Certainly looks battery related though. Have you tried jumping from your 5 series to see if it helps?

Yeah, tried jumping it from the BM and it’s still in the huff. It often runs out of electricity when it’s sat but I either get clicks when it tries to start or nothing lights up at all.

I’m thinking it could be wiring related. I’ve checked every fuse and they are all fine. Tried with another earth from the engine and box to make sure it’s not an earthing issue and still nowt. The turbo has probably cooked something important down there 😞

 

[Louis]

Check the wiring on the efi module

 

[Yarp]

Checked the EFI module and all was ok with that so started the hunt for broken stuff.

Out came the trusty problem finder light

Boost pipes stripped off which is such good fun

And somewhere hiding down there is a starter motor

Checked the connectors and all seemed ok. Went old skool and whacked the starter with a tiny little hammer that would fit in the gap and as if by magic it now works again. Never had one so stuck it did nothing at all! Who knows if it was the starter or just fiddling with everything that sorted it. I’ve got a spare starter on the new box anyway so if it goes again Ive got one to swap in. Just need to make sure I always park on a hill in case it breaks again 😂

 

[dann2707]

I have actual tears at your problem finder light. I then scrolled up again and saw the cable at the bottom hahahaah hahaaha

That has made my week hahahahaha

 

[Fodda172]

Yeah I’ll second that, WTF with the light 🤣🤣🤣 quality 👍🏻

 

[Louis]

Checked the EFI module and all was ok with that so started the hunt for broken stuff.

Out came the trusty problem finder light
View attachment 1554353

Boost pipes stripped off which is such good fun
View attachment 1554354

And somewhere hiding down there is a starter motor
View attachment 1554355

Checked the connectors and all seemed ok. Went old skool and whacked the starter with a tiny little hammer that would fit in the gap and as if by magic it now works again. Never had one so stuck it did nothing at all! Who knows if it was the starter or just fiddling with everything that sorted it. I’ve got a spare starter on the new box anyway so if it goes again Ive got one to swap in. Just need to make sure I always park on a hill in case it breaks again 😂

Is that a family heirloom? 😂😂

 

[Yarp]

I have actual tears at your problem finder light. I then scrolled up again and saw the cable at the bottom hahahaah hahaaha

That has made my week hahahahaha

Yeah I’ll second that, WTF with the light 🤣🤣🤣 quality 👍🏻

Is that a family heirloom? 😂😂

Honestly, the light is a feat of engineering genius. Best inspection light I’ve ever had by a million miles. It came into fruition at 9pm one Sunday when I decided flinging my current inspection light across the garage was a good idea and then realised I couldn’t see a thing and couldn’t buy a new one.

This one light mk2 though. Mk1 was a normal 100w bulb that got a bit hot and melty. The led powered v2 is excellent and a bit less of a fire risk. All the usual issues with standard inspection lamps don’t apply. It doubles up as a hammer, pry bar, persuader, wheel chock, basically everything. Best of all, the fact that it backs onto a deck board means it never blinds you like a normal light and the grooves are ideal for putting sockets and stuff on and they don’t roll away. I’ve had the same 10mm socket and not lost it for nearly a year since starting to use this.

Only downside really is that it’s not great in confined spaces but seriously, once you go deck board and random light fitting you’ll never go back 😂

 

[Big Toe]

Honestly, the light is a feat of engineering genius. Best inspection light I’ve ever had by a million miles. It came into fruition at 9pm one Sunday when I decided flinging my current inspection light across the garage was a good idea and then realised I couldn’t see a thing and couldn’t buy a new one.

This one light mk2 though. Mk1 was a normal 100w bulb that got a bit hot and melty. The led powered v2 is excellent and a bit less of a fire risk. All the usual issues with standard inspection lamps don’t apply. It doubles up as a hammer, pry bar, persuader, wheel chock, basically everything. Best of all, the fact that it backs onto a deck board means it never blinds you like a normal light and the grooves are ideal for putting sockets and stuff on and they don’t roll away. I’ve had the same 10mm socket and not lost it for nearly a year since starting to use this.

Only downside really is that it’s not great in confined spaces but seriously, once you go deck board and random light fitting you’ll never go back 😂

Engineering born of necessity can be amazing sometimes. It’s the kind of thing that wins wars and saves lives. This my friend, is not it, but good try 😂

 

[leeds2592]

Honestly, the light is a feat of engineering genius. Best inspection light I’ve ever had by a million miles. It came into fruition at 9pm one Sunday when I decided flinging my current inspection light across the garage was a good idea and then realised I couldn’t see a thing and couldn’t buy a new one.

This one light mk2 though. Mk1 was a normal 100w bulb that got a bit hot and melty. The led powered v2 is excellent and a bit less of a fire risk. All the usual issues with standard inspection lamps don’t apply. It doubles up as a hammer, pry bar, persuader, wheel chock, basically everything. Best of all, the fact that it backs onto a deck board means it never blinds you like a normal light and the grooves are ideal for putting sockets and stuff on and they don’t roll away. I’ve had the same 10mm socket and not lost it for nearly a year since starting to use this.

Only downside really is that it’s not great in confined spaces but seriously, once you go deck board and random light fitting you’ll never go back 😂

That's ace 😂

Paint it red, write Milkywalkhim on the said and @dann2707 would be paying £150 for that!!

 

[dann2707]

I've already bringered 2

 

[Yarp]

That's ace 😂

Paint it red, write Milkywalkhim on the said and @dann2707 would be paying £150 for that!!

Red paint ordered. Watch this space…..

 

[Andy P]

@SteveC_1879 Sorry I forgot to reply to your question, Glad you managed to find the fault. I replaced my starter motor earlier in the year when it did similar and then a few weeks later it wouldn't start and that's when I tried the battery terminals. Another way to release the starter rather than hit it with a hammer is to stick the car in gear & rock the car back & Forth.

 

[Yarp]

Well I know what I’m doing this weekend 🤦‍♂️

The life span of a Clio wheel bearing is precisely 100k miles. Both gone within about 100 miles of each other. First one had no noise but epic play. Same can’t be said for this one….

 

[Radugns]

Something was not ok. Did you torque to spec the nut? Can you check that is still tighten?
I did replace my bearings like 60k miles ago, SKF brand, not issues at all.
And the older ones keep making noise when turning only.

 

[Yarp]

Something was not ok. Did you torque to spec the nut? Can you check that is still tighten?
I did replace my bearings like 60k miles ago, SKF brand, not issues at all.
And the older ones keep making noise when turning only.

Its the other side. This is one of the original ones. If the brand new genuine Renault one had failed after 35 miles I’d be throwing it back through the garage’s window 😂.

Such a shame that they need a press. Never thought I’d see the day I said this but I miss my s**t old Astra where the whole hub came off with 3 bolts and you binned the lot

 

[dann2707]

Its the other side. This is one of the original ones. If the brand new genuine Renault one had failed after 35 miles I’d be throwing it back through the garage’s window 😂.

Such a shame that they need a press. Never thought I’d see the day I said this but I miss my s**t old Astra where the whole hub came off with 3 bolts and you binned the lot

You can do them in situ on the knuckle with a specific kit mate

 

[Yarp]

You can do them in situ on the knuckle with a specific kit mate

All the kits I’ve seen have been silly money. Have you got a link for one that’s a reasonable price?

Garage down the road is only charging £15 to press them so I’d have to go through quite a few to break even on a £200 kit

 

[dann2707]

Ahh £15 is dead cheap tbh

This is the kit but you would also need a slide hammer kit too to remove the press in part of the hub assembly

These are what I have

Master Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapter Kit AST78825 Brand New! 745227024490 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Master Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapter Kit AST78825 Brand New! at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

Stinger 9 Way Slide Hammer Puller Set OTC4579 Brand New! 731413041396 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Stinger 9 Way Slide Hammer Puller Set OTC4579 Brand New! at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

Obviously way more than £15 but saves you faffing about in the future. Hate relying on garages/other people for stuff like this so went on a rampage lately and bought loads of things myself

 

[Yarp]

Ahh £15 is dead cheap tbh

This is the kit but you would also need a slide hammer kit too to remove the press in part of the hub assembly

These are what I have

Master Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapter Kit AST78825 Brand New! 745227024490 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Master Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapter Kit AST78825 Brand New! at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

Stinger 9 Way Slide Hammer Puller Set OTC4579 Brand New! 731413041396 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Stinger 9 Way Slide Hammer Puller Set OTC4579 Brand New! at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

Obviously way more than £15 but saves you faffing about in the future. Hate relying on garages/other people for stuff like this so went on a rampage lately and bought loads of things myself

They look really good. I’ll see how long these ones last but if they go again fairly quickly I’ll get them

 

[Yarp]

I took the hub off earlier to take it to get the bearing replaced. Safe to say it’s totally dead 😂😂. It started making a grinding noise about 4 miles from home and I’m pleased it wasn’t any further cos I don’t think it would have made it!

It’ll get a clean and a paint before it goes back on and jobs a gudn. For the price of them I’m going to change both the back ones too to be safe. I just don’t think they’ve liked covering 12 miles in 4 years.

 

[Speedo Gonzales]

Yeaahhhh that bearing is fucked harder than @dann2707's dickhole 😂

 

[dann2707]

Yeaahhhh that bearing is fucked harder than @dann2707's dickhole 😂

I'm not sure if you're referring to my widg or my bumole because the latter is classed as a dick hole primarily.

 

[Speedo Gonzales]

I'm not sure if you're referring to my widg or my bumole because the latter is classed as a dick hole primarily.

Yes

 

[Yarp]

Car is a dickhead. Got the bearing pressed in and fitted back up. Drove the 4ft from the garage to the drive and had scraping. Jacked it back up and the calliper now catches the disk. How the f**k does that happen??? Must be the wrong bearing surely but then how would it have gone in?

I now also can’t take the b*****d hub back off cos I’ve painted it and I’ll get hammerite all over me. I need one new disk too and guarantee I’ll have a nightmare cos they’ll only sell them in pairs. It’s covered 243 miles! FML!!!

 

[Louis]

Car is a dickhead. Got the bearing pressed in and fitted back up. Drove the 4ft from the garage to the drive and had scraping. Jacked it back up and the calliper now catches the disk. How the f**k does that happen??? Must be the wrong bearing surely but then how would it have gone in?

I now also can’t take the b*****d hub back off cos I’ve painted it and I’ll get hammerite all over me. I need one new disk too and guarantee I’ll have a nightmare cos they’ll only sell them in pairs. It’s covered 243 miles! FML!!!

View attachment 1555599

More than likely theyve bent the hub. They need bracing properly as this is insanely common when garages just throw bearings in.

 

[Yarp]

More than likely theyve bent the hub. They need bracing properly as this is insanely common when garages just throw bearings in.

FFS they better not have. Reckon that’s it dead or can I pikey it? Filing a bit off the calliper or a washer between the hub and brembo bracket would probably sort it.

 

[Chambers_RS]

Something can’t be assembled correctly. I personally can’t see the hub it’s self or hub flange being bent, more likely not pressed in square or fat enough so the disc is sitting to far forward. Could just be the Caliper or carrier not fit correctly tho.

If you get it apart, remove the disc and look behind the hub flange, you’ll soon see if the hub flange is sat correctly on/in the bearing.

 

[Louis]

Something can’t be assembled correctly. I personally can’t see the hub it’s self or hub flange being bent, more likely not pressed in square or fat enough so the disc is sitting to far forward. Could just be the Caliper or carrier not fit correctly tho.

If you get it apart, remove the disc and look behind the hub flange, you’ll soon see if the hub flange is sat correctly on/in the bearing.

It's easy to check if bent but some shops often use the carrier bolts to support the hub during pressing.

 

[Chambers_RS]

It's easy to check if bent but some shops often use the carrier bolts to support the hub during pressing.

Know what you mean but I did this with my 54mm hubs and Laguna hubs heavy handed with no issues, there such big lumps on these I can’t see that being the issue.
But I could be wrong as there’s always a first time

 

[Radugns]

If the hub is bent, the caliber would not be parallel to disc. I think the bearing is not in position or the flange

 

[Speedo Gonzales]

I've never bent a Clio hub doing bearings and I've done at least 20. I reckon they're a pair of pussies and haven't cleaned out the race seat in the hub or seated it correctly