172 C.U.P. (Complete and Utter Poo)

[Polynesian]

This hasn’t been a great winter/spring for the Cup. And it’s MOT day tomorrow…

I finally got the gearbox mount refitted, and then realised that for an MOT, any seatbelts need to be secure and the airbag light off etc etc. never mind the rust. Whacked some 3.3 ohm resistors in the airbag connections and both the airbag and the SERV light went out. Great. Lost the bolts for the seatbelts over the last 9 months or so, not ideal. Managed to get the front passenger belt secure- I have bucket seats but standard belts. At the rear I was worried that flappy belts would be a fail- I undid them at the base to get the interior panels off to check for, and find, rust.

They’re now bolted in, the rear bench is out and a nice carpet in there. I’ll remove the rear belts fully when I have time.

Put the alternator shield into the new grille, took out all the s**t (new wings, suspension, driveshafts, etc etc) to make it at least a bit smart. Washed off all the pollen.

Please MOT gods, be kind tomorrow.

 

[Polynesian]

I forgot to mention the insane flooding. I think I have it finally dried out but it was a long process. Don’t want to ever do that again. It looked like it was down to my centre drain- not blocked but the insert was lifted up and I guess preventing water draining. Litres of it in the car…

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

did it pass?

 

[Polynesian]

 

[Polynesian]

Wheel bearings were changed about 200 miles ago at two techs, so I think that advisory might actually be for the clicking shagged driveshaft.
My front subframe is a mess, if I’m changing the suspension arms, dampers and bushes anyway, should I just go ahead and do it all with a new subframe?
Rear plate is absolutely fine, insane advisory to me.

 

[MAXRUNDOWN]

That's a shame.. sounds like a good opportunity for a front end refresh though. Drop the subframe and get everything (subframe, arb, bottom arms hubs etc) blasted and powder coated

 

[Polynesian]

Yeah, seems to make sense as I would want to do it at some point anyway.

The headlamp aim is a pretty obvious one-I have a bulb dangling in the holder!

I'll need to talk to two techs about the wheel bearing as they literally just changed them both!

The rest is all fine for me, not real surprises. I wonder if the "service brake" could just be binding/ rusty brakes from it being stood for nearly a year. It's done about 600 miles with me in the year... maybe a hard run would sort that?

 

[Polynesian]

Just a thought- front wheel bearings were done, I then added spacers- wonder if a spacer is giving the effect of a loose wheel bearing???

 

[Polynesian]

I love when people on here say “10 minute job” and “just do it there’s nothing complicated”… it doesn’t work like that for me.
I’m working through the MOT fails and just have sticking caliper- hoping a hard drive might sort that??? And new front dampers.

All the guides say you don’t need spring compressors. Which is half true, but the damper piston retracts immediately that it’s not held tight, so by the time I have the top mount sat over the spring upper, the piston has retracted and I can’t get the little collar bolt on.

How do you all do it?

 

[Matt Cup]

I love when people on here say “10 minute job” and “just do it there’s nothing complicated”… it doesn’t work like that for me.
I’m working through the MOT fails and just have sticking caliper- hoping a hard drive might sort that??? And new front dampers.

All the guides say you don’t need spring compressors. Which is half true, but the damper piston retracts immediately that it’s not held tight, so by the time I have the top mount sat over the spring upper, the piston has retracted and I can’t get the little collar bolt on.

How do you all do it?

Sorry but this forum has completely corrupted me on this term of phrase. 🥴

 

[hopgop1]

I love when people on here say “10 minute job” and “just do it there’s nothing complicated”… it doesn’t work like that for me.
I’m working through the MOT fails and just have sticking caliper- hoping a hard drive might sort that??? And new front dampers.

All the guides say you don’t need spring compressors. Which is half true, but the damper piston retracts immediately that it’s not held tight, so by the time I have the top mount sat over the spring upper, the piston has retracted and I can’t get the little collar bolt on.

How do you all do it?

I'd follow a guide on here that said it would take 30 mins start to finish and it would take me 3 hours. Just comes with experience I think.

 

[Matt Cup]

I'd follow a guide on here that said it would take 30 mins start to finish and it would take me 3 hours. Just comes with experience I think.

I always start my jobs on a Saturday morning knowing full well I’ve got 2 days to sort it.

 

[Polynesian]

I’m in no rush, except to do the retest. I have spring compressors coming tomorrow and hopefully can then be easily done. With a second pair of hands I could probably have finished it today. No big deal, just annoying!

 

[Polynesian]

MOT retest on Friday- headlight: sorted, indicator: sorted, brake caliper pins: sorted, wheel bearing: on the basis that they are brand new oem, I’m going to guess this was an effect from the spacer, so removing them for the retest, leaking dampers: have spring compressors and will have the new Cup dampers in and ready.
It better pass after all that.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Double check the hub nut is still torqued up to 280Nm.

 

[Brigsy]

As above check hub nut torque, spacers shouldnt make an issue unless wheel was nearly falling off. Wiggle test 12-6pm to check for play, if still has play will be bearing issues.

 

[ex-Chinese Dave]

I'd follow a guide on here that said it would take 30 mins start to finish and it would take me 3 hours. Just comes with experience I think.

Same here. I’ve to put my new bumper on this weekend and although I had it on and off a few times I just know that this time the new one will take me hours to fit!

 

[Polynesian]

Sure enough… got the nearside damper and spring on, relatively straightforward. So what, another 10-15 mins to finish the job and be ready for Friday's MOT?

No. Look at the threaded top of the damper piston where it comes through the top mount. How the f**k am I going to get that out now? The sidewall of the piston top is split and so you can’t get any purchase on an Allen key in it- swan neck spanner just spins the entire damper. f**king f**k. So pissed off with this car. I need to get everything replaced so it’s reliable to work on. Not old s**t.

Any ideas on how to get the old damper out now?

 

[Matt Cup]

Gun them off max ugga duggas.

 

[Polynesian]

Gun them off max ugga duggas.

I wish I had either an ugga dugga gun, or an actual gun… have neither

 

[Ant1]

I wish I had either an ugga dugga gun, or an actual gun… have neither

Amazon.co.uk

I use the older model, brilliant for the money. Order now and it will be with you before 1pm. If you don’t want to keep
It, use and send back free of charge for refund 🤷‍♂️

 

[Polynesian]

Amazon.co.uk

I use the older model, brilliant for the money. Order now and it will be with you before 1pm. If you don’t want to keep
It, use and send back free of charge for refund 🤷‍♂️

Ordered- THANK YOU!!!

 

[Matt Cup]

Ordered- THANK YOU!!!

It’ll make your life a million times easier.

In the meantime get some wd40/plus gas on the thread to loosen it.

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Loosen it with the car on the ground as well.

In the air the damper rod might spin with the gun.

 

[Polynesian]

Thanks everyone. I’ll get it done tomorrow and I appreciate the tips. At least I’ll have a badass tool for all kinds of jobs I can f**k up in future now!

 

[npt]

Just grip the piston in the centre of the spring, Stilson or vice grips, put a bit of leather if you have any against the jaw to save marking the piston

 

[Mr Trailer Man]

Just grip the piston in the centre of the spring, Stilson or vice grips, put a bit of leather if you have any against the jaw to save marking the piston

He's replacing the shocks so no need to be gentle with it.

 

[Louis]

Angle grinder

 

[16v_paddy]

Angle grinder

That's exactly how I had to remove the old shocks on my Cup in order to fit new ones