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Russ_16v's ITB'd & Caged 182 Track Car (Was Crispy's)

Option of putting a smaller wiper blade on for the mot perhaps? Or is it a certain distance from the roofline?
 
I'm not planning on putting it through an mot anymore. Getting a trailer are the car is finished and will be trailering it everywhere.
 
Just read the entie thread. F**king epic mate.

Love how it's only got ITBs too. Just the way a Clio should be done, not HUGE power but no weight.

Only thing that spoils it at the mo for me is the silver ultras, need to be black(or orange :P ), love the subframe too!

Keep up the good work.
 
I've just ordered a set of forge silicone coolant hoses and bomber said he could do a group buy on them. Oh well, they should come soon so I can get on with filling the car up with fluid.

I have also started making my brake lines and have ordered a load of bits to finish the car off :)
 
They come in our shop for parts now and again, might pop in sometime in the week and see if I can blag some discount for myself :p

Get a pic if them when they arrive
 
They come in our shop for parts now and again, might pop in sometime in the week and see if I can blag some discount for myself :p

Get a pic if them when they arrive

Forge set in black;

5421288008_e3c98aca78_z.jpg


:)
 
The kit does look nice! The only bad it is I will be chopping on of the pipes in half as I no longer run the heater matrix. I'm still looming for a pipe with a 180 deg curve to attach to the end of the cut pipe. Similar to what f0xy has done.
 
The kit does look nice! The only bad it is I will be chopping on of the pipes in half as I no longer run the heater matrix. I'm still looming for a pipe with a 180 deg curve to attach to the end of the cut pipe. Similar to what f0xy has done.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Auto-Performance-Silicone-Hoses/_i.html?_fsub=134922719&_sc=1&_sop=1

would some thing like these do with some connectors pieces do the job. i used similar to connect my pipes up to my heater matrix, but would work the same way to loop back to itself.

edit

this is what i did
STA60218.jpg
 
Took me a couple of days, but I've just read this from start to finish, and I've got to say - bloody good effort!

What's up with the black paint you're using though? It seems to look more charcoal and far too matte?
 
The paint is VHT paint and I wanted it in in this colour as the cars colour scheme is matt black and silver.


I bought the hoses for £158 posted so i think it's a fairly good price. Group buy could have been cheaper but it's All done now.

Got a hole saw come soon so the bumper and possiably the boot will becoming a piece of cheese :)
 
Chris, can you do me a favour (no rush) and take a photo of the underside of your bonnet please mate. God I wish I could find the time you do to do all this :(
 
What size hole saw have you used? I did 54mm on the rear bumper and its too small, I've got a 65mm somewhere that I'll attack it with
 
Mike don't cut too much out, bonnet was too weak after my second cutting sesh. I did post a pic further back in the thread of what I cut out. I'll find you the pic tonight.

dave I bought a 60mm one for the front numberplate bit. And I'll be doing the same to the boot where the plate used to go.
 
Not an exciting update but I have bought the following:

Heat Shrink for the engine loom
Correct size bolts for front and rear Tow strap
2ltr's of Dot 5 brake fluid
Forge Silicon Coolant hose kit - in black
180 degree bend to neaten up the heater matrix removal - in black
60mm Hole saw for front bumper and boot
Copper brake pipe cutter


Should keep me busy for a while :)
 
Oh yeah forgot i took these pictures.

Fitted the 172 Cup rear bias valve to the car the other day. I didnt realise that the headlight adjuster thing is in the way of where the cup bias valve is suppose to sit. So removed that and now have the vlave in its place. I fully dont understand how it works as when the car in on the ground the rear beam is no where near the bias valve!!!!!

Anyway heres some pics so if it fitter incorrectly then please tell me.

IMG_5043.jpg


IMG_5045.jpg


IMG_5048.jpg



Also removed the 2 port 182 master cylinder, nice and dirty!

IMG_5050.jpg


And now have a clean and tidy 172 cup 4 port master cylinder. It did look filthy but i cleaned it and painted it :)

IMG_5049.jpg


I also chopped all the fixing off the old brake lines so i can use them with my new piping. I'm one short which is a bit annoying so i'll have to find one fixing from somewhere :(

So hopefully get it all sorted Sunday and the car will have some brakes :)
 
I fully dont understand how it works as when the car in on the ground the rear beam is no where near the bias valve!!!!!
It doesnt work, thats why they 'fail' the mot and need the special notice (and why Cups dont end up backwards in a hedge everytime you brake)
 
"Fitted the 172 Cup rear bias valve to the car the other day. I didnt realise that the headlight adjuster thing is in the way of where the cup bias valve is suppose to sit. So removed that and now have the vlave in its place. I fully dont understand how it works as when the car in on the ground the rear beam is no where near the bias valve!!!!!"

When you press the footbrake the arm drops down slightly. They only move a rediculously small amount and normally seize up as well. The cup doesn't have the rod connected to the axle like the ff 172/182 either.
 
It doesnt work, thats why they 'fail' the mot and need the special notice (and why Cups dont end up backwards in a hedge everytime you brake)

Oh right, so If I just plum the master cylinder and rear bias valve in then the brakes will be fine for the track?
 
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