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Detailing Chat & Questions Thread

Unsure if this is classes at detailing? But comes into the category in my eyes.

A mate of mine came up to me the other week asking about my headlights, asking if I had bought new ones, told him I had wet sanded them and polished them back up.

So today he gave me his
9uruqe8a.jpg


They are pretty bad to be honest, all discoloured and hazed up.

So I used various grit papers, starting from 800 working up to 2500, left in a warm bowl of water for 15 mins to start with. i gave the lights a good going over with the grit paper and wiping and cleaning Up every step.

Followed by a going over with megs 83 on a cutting pad ( probably not the choice for most, but it worked for me last time so I used it again) a wipe down then went over with with megs 82 on a polishing pad.

I may get criticised for what I've used but I'm happy with the results and I think my mate will be. :-)

vymyryru.jpg

Then a shot of them side by side
umu8uzu3.jpg


Comment and criticism welcome.
 
Criticism, 800 is way too coarse and it's unlikely you've been able to fully remove the score marks made my this level of paper.

Positives, what a difference!!!! And the above point only really applies if you're anal on the detail side of things.
 
JD said:
Criticism, 800 is way too coarse and it's unlikely you've been able to fully remove the score marks made my this level of paper.

Positives, what a difference!!!! And the above point only really applies if you're anal on the detail side of things.
Click to expand...
Cheers guys :)

I chose 800 as they was pretty rough to be fair, but 800 is a tad too coarse, they look 100x better but might go back over them again.
 
Okay Capture the rapture samples! £15 posted each 4 available. This stuff is facking awesome!

Just pop your name below and pm me. First come first serve. :)
 
It's lovely and oily mate. The only difference with some show waxes is the removal being quite quick.
 
Nice pun.

Yes, basalt black E46 tourer. Rock. Hard as. Menz 3.02 two hits refined with 85. 3M pads (yellow and blue). Rotary. DA can get te.
 
I'm after abit of advise on taping up a Clio ready to go over with a DA.

has anyone got any pictures of the Clio taped up and ready?

Any I right in thinking that the tape should sit slightly on the body work and trim. This is to stop the wax/polish etc getting down behind the trims and to prevent damage to the paint on the edges of the body work as the edges can be very thin compared to the rest?
 
Anyone has 2 old hex pads ones for sale? Half decent condition of course. Need White and Black until Dave at CG gets the White ones back in.

I'll order from CYC if I really need to but I grudge it!
 
JD said:
Nice pun.

Yes, basalt black E46 tourer. Rock. Hard as. Menz 3.02 two hits refined with 85. 3M pads (yellow and blue). Rotary. DA can get te.
Click to expand...

I did my mates 6 series with rotary that was black. Dont know if carbon black.

Was hard. 4 hours to do the bonnet.

I might have to mop. Maybe dig out Megs 105
 
My car is being dropped off today after having pretty much a full repray (just not the roof). As long as everything is all good this time i want to give it a full protection/clean. The painting of the car was finished on the 17th April and im just wondering if this is enough time to leave the paint before using a DA?

​
 
You can polish it straight away but don't seal it. Paint does indeed take a few days sometimes longer to "properly" cure.
 
gally said:
You can polish it straight away but don't seal it. Paint does indeed take a few days sometimes longer to "properly" cure.
Click to expand...

Cheers Gally, done a little googling and most suggest around 90 days :eek:. Guess i will be waiting then.
 
Don't listen to 90 days mate. If they are baked a couple of days is usually fine. Bare in mind a lot of bodyshops wax cars before they leave after painting and have no adverse effects.

You'll be fine.
 
I sealed a couple of resprayed panels after 1week and was fine. sprayed on the 17th I should hope its down all it neds to by now.
 
Quick question.. AF Tripple, best applied by hand or da? Does it need working into the paint or apply then buff off? Just deciding if I'm going to sell my da or not and this is currently the deciding factor lol.
 
Adamm. said:
Quick question.. AF Tripple, best applied by hand or da? Does it need working into the paint or apply then buff off? Just deciding if I'm going to sell my da or not and this is currently the deciding factor lol.
Click to expand...

It's absolutely fine by hand mate.

Doesn't need too much working in as it dries pretty quickly.
 
Can anybody recommend a decent cutting polish & pad combo?
Ill be detailing the sunflower in a couple weeks, so I'm going to be stocking up on bits I need. All the swirls are pretty deep tbh, so want something with a good cut to get right in there straight away.
 
Use a Microfibre applicator as it needs some bite to pull the dirt out the paint.

Working it into swirls you need a hand polishing pad like Gtechniqs tri-foam one, white side. You won't replicate the DA finish though. But that's a given really.
 
200 Alex said:
It's absolutely fine by hand mate.

Doesn't need too much working in as it dries pretty quickly.
Click to expand...

Cheers mate just not sure if using DA would make it much easier.

gally said:
Use a Microfibre applicator as it needs some bite to pull the dirt out the paint.

Working it into swirls you need a hand polishing pad like Gtechniqs tri-foam one, white side. You won't replicate the DA finish though. But that's a given really.
Click to expand...

Was this a response to me or Harpham mate? So good results can still be easily achieved by hand with tripple?. Cheers.
 
Ive got rid of my DA and just use Tripple by hand now and have no problems. Obviously for major stuff a machine will be needed.
 
When you say major do you mean cutting polishes? Don't think that's for me anymore any way takes too long and I cba to stock up on loads of pads and polishes if tripple will give me reasonable results anyway.

If I ever decide to I can always go buy another or maybe even a rotary or just pay someone else to do it lol.
 
Adamm. said:
When you say major do you mean cutting polishes? Don't think that's for me anymore any way takes too long and I cba to stock up on loads of pads and polishes if tripple will give me reasonable results anyway.

If I ever decide to I can always go buy another or maybe even a rotary or just pay someone else to do it lol.
Click to expand...

Major swirls will require a cutting polish, but most can be glazed over
 
Just received a 2nd hand pot of Vics concours and it's much firmer than I original pot. more solid like Z carbon. Whereas my old pot was more of a sorbet like satsuma rock, maybe a little oilier.

What are they supposed to be like? plan to use it tonight to top up carbon as the water behaviour is dying off
 
Yellow Dave said:
Just received a 2nd hand pot of Vics concours and it's much firmer than I original pot. more solid like Z carbon. Whereas my old pot was more of a sorbet like satsuma rock, maybe a little oilier.

What are they supposed to be like? plan to use it tonight to top up carbon as the water behaviour is dying off
Click to expand...

My first (and last) pot of Vics red was like a sorbet. I don't think this helped application tbh. I'd rather a solid Carbon feel, or at least Glasur. Not really answering your query, lad. Apologies!
 
I personally prefer it firm, oh er, but they're very different. This is how I like a wax to feel, but when working it between my fingers you can feel the oils coming out.

Last time I bought both concours and collectors from CYC and they were both oily sorbet like, so much so that the oils would often leak through the seal.
 
My first vics was more firm too but the last one was crap had to mix it up with my finger and store it in a fridge for it to be any use. Ended up being wasteful with it.
 
I personally think it's age and storage mate. Once the oils release it just goes to mush like JD's.
 
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