E36 3.0 ITB Race Build

f0xy · Jul 30, 2024

Waitey said:
Is 70deg coolant considered hot enough for the OEM ECU not to be richening it up a touch?

I wouldn't ask but I recently learned some OEM Ford stuff has like 3% extra fuel in right up to 80deg.

Maybe in stock form - most low temp thermostats for the 996/997 platform are 75C. I think OEM is 83C. The middle of the (highly inaccurate) gauge is 80C. Stock setup also use MAF sensor, I use MAP.

However it's not relevant in my case. I simply target a specific lambda on each bank in closed loop via WBO. Only fuel correction I use is warmup phase and if IAT goes through the roof

RustyMojo · Jul 30, 2024

f0xy said:
For a basic start with the engine, I have:
- Millers 5w50
- 997 GT3 OIl Cooler
- Center/3rd Radiator
- Low Temperature Thermostat
- Mahle filter (spin on) with non-return valve (the original paper filter/housing does not have this).
- 997 Oil Return Pipes
- 2qt Deep Sump/Baffle (Takes around 10.5L now)
- Oil pressure sensor at the filter, and the head (furthest point).
- Oil temperature sensor at the filter, and in the sump (as per OEM).
- Stock new AOS, however proper pipework not the standard plastic crap.
- Non standard intake distributor (I use a 996/997), different link to the AOS.

At the moment I see no oil pressure issues, generally an average of 6.0-6.5 bar at the filter, 4.5-5.0 bar at the head. Temperatures remain stable around 75C coolant, 90-95C oil.

View attachment 1704396

Other things I did as preventitive measures/things to consider:
- Removed the stock power steering, I use TRW pump up front. Not pumping fluid back and forth to the back.
- Swirl Pot - Under heavy braking at Croft I was getting fuel reserve light flicker on at half a tank. This dosent nessecarily mean I'd have a fuel pressure issue, but I fitted the parts from my E36 so I can forget about it long term.
- Lightweight flywheel (the DMF had done 85k)
- Got rid of the OEM Coilpacks
- Gripper LSD

That’s super interesting, thank you! Can I ask what deeper sump you purchased? There are loads of different options and wildly differing price points? Presuming you’re running proper track rubber as well? It’s reassuring to read this thread so thank you for sharing

f0xy · Jul 30, 2024

I used a ROHLER kit, decent enough quality - it's not a difficult job, fine to do in-situ but it was easier with the engine out and upside down. Note the stock windage/baffle has its own 'trap' doors..

Yeah, tyres I run Nankang AR-1 in the dry, PS5 in damp/wet. Also consider this is on Nitrons, GT3 RS front ARB, Cayman R rear ARB, all black series bushes, cage, so considerably stiffer than most in regards to cornering forces

RustyMojo · Jul 30, 2024

f0xy said:
I used a ROHLER kit, decent enough quality - it's not a difficult job, fine to do in-situ but it was easier with the engine out and upside down. Note the stock windage/baffle has its own 'trap' doors..

View attachment 1704427

View attachment 1704428

View attachment 1704429

Yeah, tyres I run Nankang AR-1 in the dry, PS5 in damp/wet. Also consider this is on Nitrons, GT3 RS front ARB, Cayman R rear ARB, all black series bushes, cage, so considerably stiffer than most in regards to cornering forces

Amazing cheers, I’d get my local specialist to fit it. I’m fed up of rolling around under this car. I fitted a Cayman R ARB recently and run Powerflex (purple) bushes elsewhere as well as semi solid engine mounts. Was planning on changing the front ARB at some point as mine is knackered and tiny. Just again mustering the energy to tackle knackered bolts and dropping the subframe.

f0xy · Jul 30, 2024

RustyMojo said:
Amazing cheers, I’d get my local specialist to fit it. I’m fed up of rolling around under this car. I fitted a Cayman R ARB recently and run Powerflex (purple) bushes elsewhere as well as semi solid engine mounts. Was planning on changing the front ARB at some point as mine is knackered and tiny. Just again mustering the energy to tackle knackered bolts and dropping the subframe.

Yeah. To be honest if none of that at the front has been touched before now, Its a huge job. This car has spent the past 10 years as a "weekend car", with enthusiast owners, however if its passed an MOT then nothing has been touched. The deeper I dug, the more I found. I always planned on taking it back to a shell anyway, and the coolant pipework had been previously done (main centers and link pipes), but everything on that front subframe was a "start from scratch" sort of job.

A front ARB swap (if you can find one, I had to buy new from Porsche) will turn into a lot more work, garage or otherwise. I wanted the GT3 RS as its 5 way adjustable from factory - I honestly don't understand why H&R/Eibach sell what they do - non adjustable front, what is that all about?!

I would say deeper sump at a minimum, and a good oil pressure gauge of some sort. Don't rely on the stock oil pressure sensor, if you see that come on... well it's already too late. At least with a gauge of some description, you can see how the pressure is as you build up pace and get an idea of what is going on 👍

Robbie Corbett · Jul 30, 2024

Ignore - replying to an old message like a mongo.

f0xy · Jul 30, 2024

Touring_Rob said:
Unless I've missed something I don't think this is OEM ecu? The beemer certainly wasn't.

Correct, new engine loom and EMU Black 👍

Robbie Corbett · Jul 30, 2024

f0xy said:
Correct, new engine loom and EMU Black 👍

View attachment 1704436

Sorry, I started to reply then went out to fetch kid and posted without hitting refresh 🤦‍♂️

What other forum are you posting on Foxy? Would love to have read up of the rest of the project. PH?

RustyMojo · Jul 30, 2024

f0xy said:
Yeah. To be honest if none of that at the front has been touched before now, Its a huge job. This car has spent the past 10 years as a "weekend car", with enthusiast owners, however if its passed an MOT then nothing has been touched. The deeper I dug, the more I found. I always planned on taking it back to a shell anyway, and the coolant pipework had been previously done (main centers and link pipes), but everything on that front subframe was a "start from scratch" sort of job.

A front ARB swap (if you can find one, I had to buy new from Porsche) will turn into a lot more work, garage or otherwise. I wanted the GT3 RS as its 5 way adjustable from factory - I honestly don't understand why H&R/Eibach sell what they do - non adjustable front, what is that all about?!

View attachment 1704434

View attachment 1704435

I would say deeper sump at a minimum, and a good oil pressure gauge of some sort. Don't rely on the stock oil pressure sensor, if you see that come on... well it's already too late. At least with a gauge of some description, you can see how the pressure is as you build up pace and get an idea of what is going on 👍

This is so so helpful thank you! It’s really made my day. Agree around the Eibach/HR ARB’s I looked at them and wondered why folk bought them. If you just want a thicker ARB you can look to 997 options as I see it and they can be found for less. GT3 would be overkill for my use which is fast road/road trip to ring and mild track duty. I’ll get onto the other bits and get the old girl fitted with a deeper sump and an oil pressure gauge. Thanks so much again.

f0xy · Jul 30, 2024

Touring_Rob said:
Sorry, I started to reply then went out to fetch kid and posted without hitting refresh 🤦‍♂️

What other forum are you posting on Foxy? Would love to have read up of the rest of the project. PH?

At the moment, nowhere! When I get some time I'll start something (heading to Anglesey and Cadwell towards the back end of August). I'll update here when and wherever it may end up 👍

f0xy · Sep 17, 2024

Some footage from Anglesey back in August, I'll get round to Cadwell video and maybe write something up soon.

Getting used to it a bit more now. Engine appears to be solid, as does pressure and temperatures.

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