Stud conversion=Death?

[Raceface_13]

Hey guys,
Seen a lot of posts (especially recently) about wheel stud conversions failing and loosing a wheel on track, even after being torques up after each session etc.
Are some people unlucky or doing something wrong or are they still a safe thing to do? want to do mine for spacers and ease of wheel fitment/swapping.

 

[imprezaworks]

Do you swap your wheels a lot?

 

[Brucefil]

Hey guys,
Seen a lot of posts (especially recently) about wheel stud conversions failing and loosing a wheel on track, even after being torques up after each session etc.
Are some people unlucky or doing something wrong or are they still a safe thing to do? want to do mine for spacers and ease of wheel fitment/swapping.

If you race and are constantly taking wheels on and off with wheel bolts I can garentee at some stage you will forget to tighten them and loose a wheel. And wheel bolts are an absolute pain in the arse

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

 

[JamesBryan]

They're just as safe as wheel bolts.

It's usually the user that's the problem.

 

[Jekyll]

Although not on track, but I've converted to studs for well over a year on my daily 182 with blasting and never had a problem. Probably done 10k at a guess.

I'm with James in the fact that they are just as safe as bolts.

 

[Raceface_13]

awesome thanks guys, just don't fancy loosing a wheel at the ring :smile:
Just noticed an influx of people loosing wheels, there was a post on Fb and everyone said "ah its the studs they always come loose" thought id check.

 

[imprezaworks]

If your concerned, don’t do it.
Driving the ring is tough enough without thinking about your wheels going past you?

 

[Raceface_13]

you make a good point. think ill hold off just for now 😅

 

[imprezaworks]

I’m sure like others have no issues, but me personally would stick to what your happy and confident with.

 

[bozothenutter]

have had the same set of studs on for 62k Km now.....not a lot of tracktime, remove wheels once a year or thereabouts.
No reason they should be better or worse than bolts (except user error ofcourse)

 

[Louis]

I have noticed my nuts 'loosening' off sometimes. I check the torque on them every so often and they often need a little tighten. I mean, they're not at the point of nearly falling off but it's a concern. Could spacers be having this effect on them?

 

[JamesBryan]

I have noticed my nuts 'loosening' off sometimes. I check the torque on them every so often and they often need a little tighten. I mean, they're not at the point of nearly falling off but it's a concern. Could spacers be having this effect on them?

Depends on the spacers, what thickness are they and are they hubcentric?

 

[Louis]

Depends on the spacers, what thickness are they and are they hubcentric?

20mm hubcentric. Never had issues with my rears and im running no spacers there.

 

[JamesBryan]

20mm hubcentric. Never had issues with my rears and im running no spacers there.

Shouldn't be a problem as long as they are sitting flat against the hub.

Torquing to 110nm?

 

[Louis]

Shouldn't be a problem as long as they are sitting flat against the hub.

Torquing to 110nm?

Disc retaining screws even removed to ensure they sat properly. I'm torquing to 105nm

 

[JamesBryan]

Disc retaining screws even removed to ensure they sat properly. I'm torquing to 105nm

Try them a bit more at 110 and see how that goes.

You've not got any paint or powdercoat in the bolt tapers have you?

 

[Louis]

Try them a bit more at 110 and see how that goes.

You've not got any paint or powdercoat in the bolt tapers have you?

Potentially. I'll give them a clean then tighten to 110. I carry a torque wrench with me now and just check them before/after any long journeys. Take 2 minutes so doesnt bother me

 

[JamesBryan]

Potentially. I'll give them a clean then tighten to 110. I carry a torque wrench with me now and just check them before/after any long journeys. Take 2 minutes so doesnt bother me

Then again, you have 2118's don't you?

They don't have any paint in the bolt tapers from factory :up:

 

[Louis]

Then again, you have 2118's don't you?

They don't have any paint in the bolt tapers from factory :up:

I believe they've been re-powerdercoated. They also had some horrible plasticote on them so there may be some left behind in there. Sorry OP for threadjacking

 

[JamesBryan]

I believe they've been re-powerdercoated. They also had some horrible plasticote on them so there may be some left behind in there. Sorry OP for threadjacking

99% of bolts coming loose from what i've seen has been down to paint on the tapers and on the mating face of the wheel.

 

[Louis]

99% of bolts coming loose from what i've seen has been down to paint on the tapers and on the mating face of the wheel.

There's nothing on the face, apart from oxidation. Ill wire brush them all and report back. Just odd both fronts are doing it

 

[BRT Motorsport]

Could go up to M14

 

[Raceface_13]

Could go up to M14

any info on this bud?

 

[Coops Mk1]

any info on this bud?

I would guess drill and tap hub for M14 thread and buy an M14 stud conversion, done

 

[MicKPM]

I've ran PMS stud kits for years and never had issues. I've seen some customers with 2118's have *some* issues with generic hub-centric spacers though. They're normally due to a silly taper on the rear of the wheel Vs a larger chamfer on the spacer. This stops the wheel locating against the mating face properly and they eventually wobble themselves free.

 

[Louis]

I'm running Watfields spacers. I'm not sure what sort of chamfer they're running. Can easily find out.

 

[MicKPM]

Easiest thing to try is remove the spacer from the car and place it against the rear of the wheel by hand. If it fits perfectly, you're ok and of there's an issue you'll easily see it.

 

[JamesBryan]

I would guess drill and tap hub for M14 thread and buy an M14 stud conversion, done

Whole new machined hub flange thingy pressed into the bearing by the looks of it.

 

[BRT Motorsport]

yes as abouve, tap the hubs to take M14 studs,changed to m14 after shearing m12 studs,changed to m14 years ago and never had any issues
need to make sure tap is straight

 

[Coops Mk1]

yes as abouve, tap the hubs to take M14 studs,changed to m14 after shearing m12 studs,changed to m14 years ago and never had any issues
need to make sure tap is straight

have you had to ease the bolt holes on any of the wheels you use as well?

 

[BRT Motorsport]

standard drive flange with m14 tapped holes, drive spline machined bigger to take 197 cv joints

 

[BRT Motorsport]

i use team dynamics and they are ok, i have some random after market alloy and they dont fit

 

[Coops Mk1]

interesting, could easily enough machine wheels out provided enough meat though I guess.
make my Superleggera even lighter removing some metal.....flol!

 

[leeds2592]

I'm running Watfields spacers. I'm not sure what sort of chamfer they're running. Can easily find out.

Mine have been solid and not loosened since I put them on and torqued them up before CSF.

 

[Louis]

Mine have been solid and not loosened since I put them on and torqued them up before CSF.

I saw you torque them at csf 🙈😂
What you torque to?

 

[leeds2592]

I saw you torque them at csf 🙈😂
What you torque to?

That's cos I was shitting it after @OssPoop's experience, but mine have been absolutely fine.

Done mine to about 110nm I think.

 

[Matt555]

That's cos I was shitting it after @OssPoop's experience, but mine have been absolutely fine.

Done mine to about 110nm I think.

If anyone is using PMS conversion it's 140nm

 

[Louis]

If anyone is using PMS conversion it's 140nm

No it's not.

 

[Matt555]

yes it is, mine are 140nm, presumably as they are M14 rather than M12

 

[Louis]

yes it is, mine are 140nm, presumably as they are M14 rather than M12

ahh, yeah m14 are more.