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infact I'd go as far as guessing their diagnostics is reading the cylinder numbers in reverse, so it's actually no1 they're changing when it's saying no4 at fault. get it out of there. They don't know what they're doing

it's clearly not the injectors themselves at fault!!

nope, not unless there's excess play in the axle bushes, or something is slightly bent. (I suspect bushes on Scotts car after having it in)

really? there's one. everyone else is saying never had a problem. wow

Don't use helicoils for sparkplugs. You want to be using an insert called "Timesert"

it's a silly pattern, the gap isn't even a double gap, it's 1.7 tooth width

always done it the quick way. Can do it on the dyno in about an hour

if you made the double tooth into 2, you would have a 61 tooth pattern. Just leave as is, trigger tooth tables are setup perfectly, the cup racer uses a modded flywheel, and omex can't run it

only if you want it not to run

you will never weld repair that and get it to seal properly it can be modded, but it's no good for standard fitment

only difference is the release bearing. depends which arm you use. 172 arm (longer so softer clutch) use 172 release bearing, if you want to use the shorter willy/valver arm, the use a meg/willy/valver release bearing you'll need a set of bolts for the 172 flywheel. They're a larger thread...

172 port is most like megane F7R. Williams is most like 197/200 F4R

TP coachworks in Kempston. Don't rush or give him a deadline and you'll get a better job than anywhere in a quite reasonable timeframe. Just let him dictate the timescale.

up and running. Going to do something when the weather is nicer, but can do power runs now for £35

yeah it's good. We used it for getting the smell of a customer smoking smack out of a courtesy car (burnt foils left in the glovebox and everything, filthy fucker)

I would buy that back and fix it even if they cat-D it personally. You might even do well out of the deal if you negotiate it well and use a decent bodyshop

Dextron II, about a litre

Yanoo kit is well worth it. That and a powerflex dogbone bush kit and some new upper engine and box mounts makes the box perfectly good to use

half liter per 1k is acceptable by renault standards. Personally I'd say half litre per 2-3k is fine if you drive hard, but a very healthy engine should use next to nothing.

can do it here if that's better for you (still a long way, granted)

as above, stay in lambda controlled areas (for simplicity sake, sub 4k and sub 50% throttle) and use the highest octane fuel available. Don't leave it too long though

remember the springs are not in the same position as stock, so the leverage point is different, meaning the required spring rates are different. They're perfect for a road going car that does track days, exactly what they're designed for.

this, absolutely 100%

this REALLY grinds my gears there was no such thing as a special edition 1.9 miami blue.

i wouldn't be concerned about a bit extra being in there at all.

they usually only wear when the caliper sticks to be honest

if there was air in it, the pedal would disappear to the floor

i certainly won't be investing in one. You can achieve the same thing (more throttle opening for less pedal travel) by changing the right part of the map if you really want. I'll be fitting a proper ECU as soon as possible. That will sort out a huge amount of the limitations put into the stock...

it's likely to get worse quickly. They leak when there's play in the bearings, it's designed to do it to let you know there's a problem needs fixing

lol, it wasn't that close, it was about 10mm clearance with 3mm spacers on. All this for a bearing....Could have fixed it yesterday if you'd called, got one on the shelf :p