Search results

The new AWT cams will be released very soon and have been specifically designed for 99% of road users and harmony with the stock ECU's operating parameters. They loose zero torque at any point and gain massive amounts of torque. They will be released within the next 6 weeks and i gaurantee...

Be careful when reading advertised duration, in their own right they mean absolute zilch. As i've previously talked about, you can have two cams of 275 deg 'duration' and they will be of such a different nature you wouldnt believe. Whats important are the 40 and 50 thou timing events...

No need to remove the head, complexity lies in the cam timing where no location keys are used and a specific process is required to ensure timing which doesnt slip once you move the tools. Reprofiles are s**t period. 290 deg is insanely too wild for the road, the F4R wont even start...

Thats a silly comment, there are about 7 profiles from cat which will not work on a stock type engine. And the same for schricks wilder cams. Just because one person had the wrong cam profile fitted doesnt mean you have to be careful of the cams, you only have to be careful of the people...

dont bother going anywhere in HK for headwork, i know all the places and they are all crap. That head is a mirror finish which again is pointless and a waste of time, so your just paying for a pretty finish. Its expensive and will see no gains as they still have the stock valve seat...

i used to

you have to be moving, using your hands wont work.

i'm 2 lines below half way on the tank so far and on 290 miles.....looking good....just have to do my economy run driving skills for longer.

dont be girls............450bhp minimum.

it is essential. The bias valve is a mechanical valve which adjusts the braking proportions to the rear depending on how much weight is on the rear of the car. This is proportional to vehicle ride height. Lowering your car artificially acts like a 'heavier' car in regards to braking...

www.sparkplugs.co.uk

and your plain slow.

i am the ring god! :S

Not out yet, things have been on pause for a while with the organisation of a move to a new premises, which begins this weekend.

i'm touching on 40mpg (38-39 on motorways) and 370-390 a tank...........i'm determined to hit 400miles for the tank. oh, on a 1991 valver, stock engine with some cams, stock ECU.

you do.....lol

255 is better in every concievable way bar noise.

R-Sport dont as far as i know. And there is no rubber inlet gasket, its coated black shim steel.

Its a steel shim gasket and when you install it, it becomes crushed and will not seal effectively if reused.

whos there?

problem is none of these aftermarket bearings are 'tough'. You can grind the crank to size where your running circa 1.5 thou rather than 2-2.2.

why 'could'..........? next time you see me just run up and kiss me, and i'll know its you.

cams on a MK1 2ltr are probably the best single mod, always surprises me. Cant imagine martins with some good cams in......would be a bit spastic.

they are headwork appaling? :P

Replacing engine bearings is only because its needed, if you take off the caps its easy enough to see if they do or do not need replacing. Ask them if you can come by to take photographic evidence then post it up here so i can see. Bearings would possible be damaged because the oil...

i was bored of them before they were released.

yup, i might start selling venturi effect oil filters.

you dont, you have a single stage VVT cam phasing advance system. Read the link.

Cant be bothered, i've written it too many times already. But a quick search shows up: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=166405&highlight=BenR

was it real hard wood or laminated MDF ;) It should be sorted under warrenty, there should be no reason why oil would just piss out. Car will not be a write off i shouldnt think, you have to run the engine on next to no oil to damage it, and even then its all a very complicated as to...