Search results

The cams dont use locating dowels so you have to undo the pulleys if you want to tension the belt correctly and retain the correct cam timing.

wood block, tap them hard and the centre will fall out. Clean the lifter, then use something pokey to push the ball bearing valve and release the pressure, then clean. Reassemble

bump? Your answer is above.

yea, its an instant switch. Plain 16 deg advance when you activate vvt. Try it, just put 12v accross the solenoid when the car is idling.

i find FF drivers to be faster than cup drivers because they realise they dont need lightweight glass to make up for talent ;) eh eh!

the same.

i thought you knew these engines? Look through the gearbox window for the slot on the flywheel and line it up with the zero marker on the gearbox.

You've either done it with the cams or crank out of position. its quite easy to check if the rear of the cams are out of alignment when the crank tdc marker is at zero.

oh, then just use your bum and switch it when it feels best.

its on or off, its a lowside switch, if your going to use a simple rpm based trip point then do one run with the vvt on from 1500rpm and one with it off and then compare torque graphs and switch it at the point the two cross.

the 1.2 loom or 172 loom? 1.2 or 172 rad?

you've done an engine swap? The fan is triggered by the ecu and the temp sender provides the ecu, dash and rad fan with temp info.

leads, but plugs are great aswell.

i dont think fred could run a whole 1/4 mile the smoking gimp.

no, stock are great! I use them on other engines as upgrades.

dunno, never used them.

no, a wider rear = more understeer, not less. To stiffen up the rear you have to buy adj shockers and play with spring rates.

The wider you run your rear track the more understeer you get, same with negative camber to a point where you start reducing the contact patch. Harder rear damping/spring/tyre pressures will increase oversteer, so will a softer front. Its all about weight shift and controlling it.

you dont need an expensive sandwhich plate for a pressure sender, just Tee off the low pressure warning sender in the block.

calculated it. For airflow in CFM you need to know what rpm you want to look at and the efficiency at that rpm. VE in this case was estimated.

then beggars cant be choosers. No OE intercooler will simply slot in where and how you want unless your prepared to do major work.

get one made then.

144cfm @6000rpm with a VE of 86%

a nice stock clean paper filter is best.

when new pads are heated severely they go through a greening phase in which it feels like you have no brakes at all. Leave them to cool fully, then do a few more medium braking attempts.

maybe its only now you have put them through the greening phase since you had done no hard braking previously.

or hire a flat bed for £50.

no it wont and no i wont.

unplug the piggyback from the car and see if it is still running lean in the same areas, to eliminate that factor.

what would it be plated in?