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more likely the clutch pedal, release bearing doesnt do much unless it physically breaks, and you'll know about it if it does lol. Check cable and pedal, and might be as simple as a worn clutch.

Std crank is well made on the 1.8, and the early rods are BEEFY. Its not boost or bhp which breaks rods and cranks, its rpm. The highest loading on a rod/crank journal isnt on the combustion stroke but on the exhaust stroke around TDC depending on rod/stroke ratio. If you controlled the...

I wouldnt trust a garage who doesnt specialise or have the tools required...ESPECIALLY garages in Hong Kong, they are crap. Tools required are MOT. 1496 MOT. 1509 MOT 1509-01 Optional TDC setting tool MOT. 1054, if they cant accurately (and this is super duper important) find tdc.

valver crank/rods block is more than strong enough for stupid bhp, 260 is but pittence.

it will, you can go to a place and ask for the type of blast media you want. Or they can advise which will best suit your needs, but then it gets more expensive.

blasting with sand lol. sand/grit/media propelled at a surface you want to condition using high pressure air.

anywhere from 7-15 a wheel......yellow pages.

if it was pumping over 300bhp, maybe.....if you cand find the buyer, 5k they are worth zilch.

unless its one of the new SOHC ka's

lol, its alot of effort for not much. I could yes, but you'll be basically comparing a new to a used sample to look at transfer of material from engines iron, copper, lead, silicone, moly breakdown etc etc. What are you looking for precisely?

I think you should invest in a pyrometer so you can actually measure and read what the tyre is trying to tell you. Over inflation will lead to overheating and rubber actually tearing from the carcass, rather than wearing.

http://www.theoillab.co.uk/ Results will mean nothing unless you understand what the particulate breakdown relates to and able to further differentiate between engine, gasket, sealant, dirt, fuel contamination as all contain similar elements which are all grouped into total contamination...

yes

either change or add silencers. I find most systems make the mose noise around 4000-4500rpm......that dead annoying 'boom'.

its brand new, they do get louder as carbon lines the silencers, but he drone tends to leave a little. Give it a bit then get it adjusted once its settled.

quickest and easiers will be to contact JE or accralite.

best strike the vag 20v off the list then ;)

same tyres?

Just PM or email me for cam info. The std 1.8 gearbox can cope, the JC series just doesnt like clutch dump and drag racing too much, apart from that, on track its fine. the jC3 in the 1.8 has shorter ratios as the 1.8 revs higher, so might be better on track...depending. The JC5 in the...

Incorrect info sorry, 2ltr bottom end sourced from a williams (f7R700) or a megane coupe (F7R710/714) is where you want to start, a 1.8 on track just doesnt get the blood moving. From then you can use the 1.8 head on it no problems, it will be perfectly fine. However an easy bowl port on...

if your talking turbo then ultimately you wont have to stop thinking much until you hit 400-500

Nathan, just drop me an email or PM and i'll provide full instruction on how to fit and wire the bodies up.

you wont be able to hit 300bhp, the head casting wont support that.

You could physically link it together with a bit of excessive engineering. But the problem will be getting an ecu to work with the multi potentiometer system required, and controlling an output as well as an input from the pedal. Then there are safety issues on failure etc. Plus you can feel...

I can supply a range of profiles which you can pick from, or we can discuss a custom profile to be made specifically for your needs. There is plenty around for the 1.6 and you can actually make then into 160bhp screamers for relatively little work.

about 165-170 on the 1.8 and 190 on the 2ltr.

you bet your sweet ass.

Primarily the issue with cost. Charging a std engine is tricky and doesnt lead to any spectacular results, especially using a centrifugal charger with high charge temps. If charging is to be worthwhile then lower compression is needed, but you dont have to use expensive forged pistons or...

from the looks of it, it looks as if the pad wasnt sitting on straight and dragging on half the disc, overheating (blackening) one side and not dispersing piston load properly.

Most of the big outfits will use a miller synchroware series.