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Ever been any problems before? I'd be looking at the throttle body electronics including the pedal switch. A diagnostics test should hopefully show up with some faults. But, tell them you were doing something like 70, and not 95.

Yeah, I did the right thing then. I trimmed the edge straight so it can't touch the radiator again. Cheap fix otherwise if it goes it'll cost at least £70 for a radiator and £15 for fluid.

On mine it was warped hot or cold.

Typical problems like sticking throttle bodies, melting steering wheels and, serv and airbag warning lights are all well known. But is a warped radiator fan housing another one? The housing on mine warped and eventually it's broke through the radiator. The fix is easy enough, take the fan off...

May be just a case of cleaning the throttle body. Cost is a can of carb cleaner, 3 or 4 pounds.

On mine it is 7700842857. Cost about £20. Check strap or something similar.

Yes. Mine's about 1200 when cold and it is lumpy, it splurts and splutters if you listen at the exhaust. Drops to about 600-750 or something close to that after a few minutes.

Anyone fitted one of these radiators to a Ph1 172 and had any issues? Just like to know about any impending problems before I go and order one. Cheers

There is a solenoid (motor) in your door that has stooped working I imagine. I changed mine recently as it had stopped working. It is a bit fiddly to do it. Cost of a new part is about £65 or find one from a scrap dealer. Renault should charge an hours labour as the door card needs to come off.

Needs high revs and for this to be sustained to get the maximum performance. I changed from a 1.8 Clio RSi to a 172 Ph 1 and the only noticeable difference was that the 2.0 litre sustained the high performance for longer at the top end. Mind you, the RSi always felt pretty good. Do a lot of...

I used Millers full syn engine oil for a couple of years (can't remember which one off he top of my head - costs about £35 for 5 litres). Car has now done 140,000 plus miles. Oil changed approx. every 5000 miles (mostly). Cheers

Me too, but it has affected the paint on the boinnet (although you'd have to look very closely to ever notice it - I have!).

100% agree.

My grab handles were the same. I took them off, rubbed them down and then resprayed them. Now they feel fine. Had the wheel retrimmed and that's much better, too. Not recommending this, but the best cleaner I've ever used for anything ever is AutoGlym motorcycle cleaner. If it was my car I'd try...

Not a bad idea, that. Yes, don't fancy the clip idea (might just decide to un-do itself when it's not convenient). Buy runaround, fix gearbox and flog runaround. Interesting that a 172 Cup engine and gearbox is a straight swop (almost anyway, would just need to attach the different...

Excellent. I had always felt I wanted a 172 without proper brakes, but this is another reason to be cheerful.

Couldn't it be because it's become a bit sticky with oily gunge? Is what you say, Fred only true for the electronic throttles? On the ph1 172 is it a bit more mechanical - you operate the pedal and the cable opens and shuts a valve.

Stick to the standard brakes if it's mainly a road car. If you're driving a lot on track and being really serious about reducing your lap times then your can't really compromise.

Engine is great (touch wood) and never had any major problems. The throttle body has been a major pain in the ar*e, but I got one a couple of weeks ago for 17 quid and it now seems lush). I bought it on 27,000 miles and have used good qual oil (real fully-synth oil) every oil change at about...

I need the car every day so can't afford for it to be in bits while the box is rebuilt. So I'd like to buy one now that's been rebuilt and get that fitted. Plan is to then get the old one rebuilt and sell it to offset the costs.

I'm planning ahead. Car's done 143000 miles now (it's fine at the moment). But if it breaks do I specifically need another Ph1 172 gearbox, a JC5 089 (because of way the speedo is driven), but I can choose any RS Clio engine as all 172/182 engines match the gearbox. Is that right?

I took the underbonnet one off a long time ago. I think I can just about see a small area on the bonnet where the heat may have affected the paint, but hardly noticeable. I'd replace the 'firewall' with something else though, something that looks better like some heat shield foil if you can find...

Meant to sale being 'refurbished' not fitted.

I bought a vinyl one from a lower sepc model and used that while mine was being fitted. I'll be selling mine for £25 plus postage. Try a scrap dealer though in Belgium perhaps first.

Maplins sell electrical cleaner.

I can post a pic tomorrow, no worries, but too tired now (just come in-doors having replaced a broken central door locking mechanism). The company are JD Trimming http://www.jd-trimming.co.uk/ I'm happy with it, it feels better than the vinyl one and it's much better than paying nearly £300 for...

In mine I bought a temporary cheapo wheel (looks exactly like a 172 wheel but it's vinyl) and had the original leather one refurbished (in Prussian blue leather to match interior). Cost for the refurb was 135, delivered. If you're interested I'm selling the vinyl wheel.

WTF! It just simply unscrews. When I replaced mine (same symptoms as OP, by the way) the revs went to a nice steady 5000 rpm. I adjusted it with a screwdriver - don't try it, I got lucky and eventually got it right. I read something about needing to switch on the ignition part way for some...

Sorry, no idea but best get it checked properly.

Only help I can give is that in my steering fluid res. when I take the cap off I can see fluid about half way up the neck. Can't see anything unless I take the cap off. This will show what level it should be at least.