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15w50 is a ad thick for this weather, but my engines got it in aswell and it is a bit tappy at startup. just get the engine hot....dont even need the car to move.

tried a new CTS? or your lambda.

rollbars are dead simple. wishbones will take youa bit of time squeezing them in there....quite a b*****d.

stick some duct tape over the cooler and if it warms up faster and up to a higer temp then you can assume oil was flowing through it from the start. weather or not the stat is stuck open you can only tell if you change it.

te injectors do make a very loud (surprisingly) ticking noise. The tappets make a distinct tap, not a light wooden tick.

really? lol

which bushes do you have? ARB and lower A arm subframe bushes?

WIth it being freezing outside youll need to get the engine fully up to temp for the tappets to prime themselves fully. Jsut get it fully warm them check again.

indeed....nicks answers are acredited and he has been empowered with forum immunity of always beign correct hehehe. Explaina tad more Tom. What do you mean by bad when cold and rough when warm. Is it lumpy, chokes, stalls, stutters, spits back, loss of power, funny noises?

The reason it idles poor is because a low VE is acheived with lots of overlap as the fresh charge shoots straight out the exhaust. At high rpm the need to open the inlet earlier and use severap pulse tuning phenomenons, inertia ramming and exhaust pressure differences actually help...

but hes using a hell of a lot more.

Whats there to tell. There is enough valve area for 320bhp, maybe slightly larger valves and more power. Itll need to be steel cranks, ti rods and pistons, Ti valves, exteneive headwork, rather large diamter throttle bodies, a drysump system. The only thing your trying to achieve is the use...

but at full throttle it already kicks in very early. Jay, the point i was making, coupled with yours, is that if it was there primarily to increase torque (its not sophisticated to help anything power wise) then why would it kick in so early at low rpm on full throttle....thus negating any of...

the viscosity change of mobil with temps is quite poor, its gets VERY hot as its thermal capacity is far worse then manyother oils. Not as good as its cracked up to be. easiest way of thinking about oil is....i.e 5w50, is a 5w basestock that has the viscosity of a 50 oil @ 100C.

if the pedal does get to the floor, its your seals.

any normal motorfactors will do them. The likes from most tool manufacturers are fine, halfords are a bit pricey. bout 30 off quid should get yout a set of torx bits and sockets.

Using a strobe gun on a valver is erm.....difficult with the entire belt assembly covered lol. Try unplugging the coldstart injector as it might be flooding.

I cant see them doing anything in particular and flow at speed through your ducting will be hampered by those fans. Nice effort though, credit where credits due.

Its not directional, but dont fit them the wrong way round, there is an intended rotation. cups are ET38 and 172s ET48 (someone will come along with the 0.5s)

erm!

Whats missing? Fuel, spark? check

its not that they have taken their time getting 200bhp. 200bhp is easy.....its just none of you are prepared to pay for it. Thus its only come along with the well designed 172.

just turns the accesories at a slower speed using a smaller pully, lower power drain from operating the accesories at a lower RPM.

theoreticaly at 7000rpm @ 100% VE about 247CFM.

IIRC the problem with that engine was an incorrecty fitted camshaft oil seal.....very elementry.

thats a fair amount of oil! it shouldnt be burning quite that much.

thats the servo......doi

77 00 741 557 COVER PLUG 9.92 ---3 x 1

pretty soon.

Lobe Centre Angle The amount in deg between max lift on inlet and exhaust.....dictates overlap.