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Misadventures??

Possibly a shagged "dog bone" gearbox to engine mount.

Might also be a transmission problem. Check the diffs - they usually make a lot of rattling when they go.

Ive got a black car and find it very difficult not to get fine scratches on the paint when I wax it. What sort of pad should I use? The main problem is when I brush off the light dust that my car attracts - thats what seems to scratch it the most.

I just have the "Renault" and "Clio" on my car, with the "16v" side badges painted over (my car is black). Its comic to see the faces of those who are not in the know. Subtle is the way forward.

Whoa Ben! Bristol has turned you into a hard and bitter man!

In short, you cant. To get to a real 125mph (not just on your clock) you need a dramatic increase in power that you wont get from the 1.2 16v. More importantly - even if you get the magic 125mph capability, how often will you use it?? I hardly ever drive fast, but I was going for a top speed...

Its a tricky one this... The fat arches of the 16v make fitting 17s or 18s a cinch, but they handle way better on 15s. I had some 16s with 205/45 profile tyres, but chopped them in for some refurbished original Phase2s with 195/50 tyres. The "handling" is way better on the limit now...

Well, if the 16v is anything to go by, then the 172 will not drop in value like a lead weight. You may find the odd tatty 16v for under £2,000 but the majority make in excess of £3-4,000 - thats 30% of what they cost new ten years ago!

They supposedly do 150mph (well the press cars did anyway). Thats not bad for a 1960s car!

The 16v is virtually the same car - so do a topic search under 16v maintenance. The 16v and Williams are a fair bit different from the cooking Clio models and even a Renault mechanic would have probably not seen one in a while. I would always recommend you had it serviced by someone who knows...

hmmmm.... But I agree about the flash to other 16v/Willy drivers - its one of the Ten Commandments (it being Easter Sundau and all!).

Ah well! Ill have to say it in a fake deep voice next time just like this!

My 16v badge is blacked out. I prefer subtle

Adams mate! The F7P is the 1.8! :oops:

I was driving around this evening around Cardiff - man, I saw at least ten different CTRs. Theyre multiplying! Anyway, a red one had been following me for a while and overtook me at mega speed just before rolling up to some red lights with a new-shape Fiesta. The Fiesta went for it on...

I know him and have driven his car - and he knows my car as well. Its just mutual respect for the two popular, but alternative approaches.

Both engines share a very similar head and general design. But the 2.0 is a better starting point as it makes more torque at lower revs. My 1764cc F7R Valver engine is tuned and definitely makes less than the same mods on an F7P. At a recent RR day, MatBrowns old 2.0 with theoretically the...

"The correct jacking point" will be at either end of the sills - there are little holes visible where the original jack hooks in. If you feel behind these, there are small rectangular toughened areas - but as Ben says, youre best off using a trolley jack and a big block of wood at those points.

16vs dont respond well to simple mods in terms of power, although an induction kit an exhaust will make it sound fantastic. Beyond this, most owners stick with a chip and de-cat - again, no major power, but they make it a little more driveable. Mods get expensive after this, though head...

Most 16vs are ten years old by now: thats a lot of time to thrash a hot hatch! If you want a buyers guide, I can russell one up - but the basics are that its not an inherrently unreliable car, although youre best buying one from an enthusiast. Fortunately, most are owned by enthusiasts. But...

Ive raced three TT 225s recently and its been too close to call: I beat one off the line all the way to 90mph (suspect fluffed gearchange as he lost a car length as we both changed into 2nd), and the other two were inconclusive - they were leaving me at 50mph, but I reeled them back in by 80mph...

Erm...thanks Ben! :confused: Will get top mounts checked, but theyre fairly new too!

Raced a 20v Turbo the other day and I was pleasantly surprised to be keeping up respectably, though by no means beating it. The sound of the thing was awesome and it kept belching clouds of black smoke.

I use the Super Resin stuff to clear off small scratches and when the whole car needs a little extra colour. Now I use the Extra Gloss Protection (non-abrasive) about once a week , but used to use the Super Resin all the time and never noticed any ill effects. I only drive the car about once a...

Yeah, if I could have found a Xerus Grey Phase2 with leather then Id have had it. As it was, the only decent one with leather I saw was a pearlescent black one - which I bought!

My box is on 99k miles. So far so good.

When I come to a halt, or when I turn about halfway through the steering lock (either direction), I get a single "clunk". Ive had it at a Renault specialist recently, and they didnt notice anything. Just wondering what would cause this. It sounds as if something is hitting something else...

Even if the rolling radius is the same, the effect of 17s is to increase the unsprung weight = slower car! I used to have some aftermarket 16" wheels on my car and when I swapped them back for some original 16v Phase2 15" wheels, you could feel the weight difference between the two.

The Willy one is based on a 19 TD box, which was designed to handle more torque. The Willy one has shorter ratios, up until 5th, which is longer AFAIK.