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Me too mate! Staying in is dull as! :dapprove:
Glad ya got the pad sorted, think Anni mentioned it actually thinking about it! :D
It's next on the to do list for me! ;)
It could be the reason yes as an oily residue will leak from it if it's the crankcase breather.
It isn't a major issue really but get it repaired just for peace of mind :)
No probs :)
I'd love to see a non-genuine rear cluster though as I've never seen one! :)
The genuine rear clusters are listed as £40 odd each but that price is 3 years out of date now!
Yeah, good luck and keep us posted! :)
Oh and by the way, Ryan's Racing Blue was recently repaired after a rear shunt and it needed a new exhaust/cat/manifold! Damage you've listed is very similar bar the tail light I believe.
Agreed, quite often the exhaust shoves forward knackering the cat and the manifold which to replace alone can be very pricey! :)
What's the damage, do you know?
Cup packs are ;
1 suspension pack, which consists of darker Anthracite coloured wheels, stiffer suspension and slightly lower ride height (-5mm)
2 Spoiler pack, which consists of front lower spoiler on bottom lip of the bumper and an enlarged spoiler on the tailgate.
I can supply pics if...
On a side note, do we think that the led's already fitted in the switches will be 12v rated? :o
Or will they have built in resistors on the PCB's within the switch?
Ah seen it down at the bottom of the page now! ;)
Almost sussed i think mate cheers, just got to decide on the brightness now! :cool:
Dink, I am swapping some internal switch led's on the car. To start with I am doing just 1 or maybe 2 tops. Then we'll see how it goes. Certainly doesn't...
The LED's are linked above Dink.
Reverse voltage is 5v forward voltage is 3.3v max.
I know the resistors are to limit current predominantly, it's just the description on the site isn't the best.
Cheers for the help guys :) Here is the link to the actual LED's.
So if I'm running 5v LED's on a 12v system I need 12v resistors not 5v ones, am i understanding that correct? :)