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No , as the cable are correct it adjusts up as it should do to spec .
I did read your post a saw you had excess play in adjuster due to to long a cable.
Glad I could be of some help .
I had many head aches working it out . Thankfully I’m a tight cnut and didn’t want to spend out to find I would have incorrect parts .
I ultimately removed them off the motor and took a gamble lol.
Also one thing for the Ph1 owners to bear in mind is that...
@Nafoff .
Have you seen my picture I did of the handbrake cables .
I have a Ph1 Clio and I purchased First Line and fitted straight in .
I know these can be an absolute ass to find the right ones .
I hope this helps .
Mines running stock engine apart from 438 cams with Jenvey ITB’s and made 195 from memory . Again goes well .
Maybe yours could benefit from some cams to bring it up a bit .
Not just those .
For the UCH to function properly , I’d be checking all those wires especially earths ect , as we all know s**t earths can cause this .
Others have said , press and hold the key fob switch while turning the ignition on .
But to be honest a solid red light is coded line fault from UCH to ECU comms .
So chip key is ok atm in theory
Double check all the connections in the bay , earth on and off clean them up .
I’d even go as far as remove the dash plug behind the washer pump and separate that for good measure .
Seems to me your pretty much on it .
You’ve done what an auto sparks will do .
If everything checks out , then it’s UCH swap with key and ecu from a donor car .
A lad on FB group recently had same issue and it was the UCH .
So he swapped out the bits and bingo it fired up .
Maybe you need...
Make sure the fuel tank is empty as the fuel will go off and poss mess up the pump in the tank .
If you can put the car on axle stands to relax the suspension.
Regular engine start ups and run till fan comes on is a good idea , but fuel will run out [emoji15].
The relay workings are yes integrated within the uch .
The switch tells that what speed you asked for and the uch does the rest .
Have you checked all the wiring to the motor ?
IE it’s circuits ?
Also you haven’t said what the issue is that you have .
All the OP says is relay .
So I will...
If cruise and limiter now not working , I would strongly suggest that the squid is at fault as you last touched that area and cured your SRS light .
Try in plugging and plugging back in the squib .
But you will need to reset any codes that can occur when doing this on and off with electrical...
Basically out on track you could blow a pump , spill oil on track , cause an issue “Stop the session” and worst of all hot PAS fluid could potentially enter the cam belt area and cause engine failure.
That’s it it a nutshell.