172 cup disappointed bhp

[clarkey*]

Just took it for a map, it's got port matched inlets, k&n panel filter, miltec de cat, power flow stealth, timing was out on first run at 154bhp, adjusted timing and mapped got 168bhp, that 200bhp now looks miles away,probably never going to get it.

 

[jesus]

At a rolling road day mine made 183bhp and someone elses ph1 made 168bhp on the same day. Realistically, mine was only just quicker. There's no way there was such a big difference.

 

[clarkey*]

I was told forget the port matched they may give me 1 bhp and decat may be 1bhp, so asked about cams, was told nar forget cams there not worth the money, for little bhp gains, :-( told super charger, or throttle bodies only good way to make power... So probably staying at 168 lol

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

Buy the rs2 inlet that's in the for sale section (if its not sold). Cheapest way to get almost to your 200bhp target

 

[clarkey*]

Nope told there s**t too, makes little more at top end that's all, in some of there tests they even lost a little power, so they say, cos I told them about it for sale, and thats wot they said

 

[-J-]

Nope told there s**t too, makes little more at top end that's all, in some of there tests they even lost a little power, so they say, cos I told them about it for sale, and thats wot they said

Whoever told you that was wrong...

Was 164bhp standard.

 

[clarkey*]

Rs tuning leeds, Paul

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

Nope told there s**t too, makes little more at top end that's all, in some of there tests they even lost a little power, so they say, cos I told them about it for sale, and thats wot they said

Who told you that?

There's plenty of owners of them that would disagree. @Daniel originally removed that inlet from a 200bhp car. Think it had 197 cams too maybe

 

[clarkey*]

I am a believer lol just they put me off, but throttle bodies must be the way, also looking at dans group buy cams

 

[-J-]

Rs tuning leeds, Paul

Well as can been seen on mine above, there are certainly gains to be had.

The RR print out wasn't run on a RR related to the garage that did the work, totally independent run before and after.

I was certainly happy with the results (the run above was actually done on a CS.net RR day).

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

If your due a cambelt change then cams make sense.

It would be the RS2 for me though. Buy it for a grand, enjoy 190ish bhp and a flat torque curve for a couple of years. Remove and sell on for the same money you bought it for.

 

[clarkey*]

But there is throttle bodies and ecu on here for 1500 ish miles better deal if I had the money this side of xmas

 

[ilovewilly]

Fit bodies, enjoy the heroic noise and forget about pub figures.

BRING ON THE TRUMPETS!

 

[Rob669]

You're going about this the wrong way if you want power like 200 HP. Don't waste time posting here get the right advice by speaking directly to people who know these cars well. Dan at SJM and Paul who you have spoken too plus a few others (Chip Mk1 was a good source of information so search for what he had said). Dan was offering a CAM package recently.

Just my advice!

 

[-J-]

Strange comment @Rob669 there are many many people on here who have plenty of experience of the F4R's and getting power from them.

The clubs all about providing support and advice.

 

[clarkey*]

Yes that's wot I was saying my advice is leave everything alone, go for bodies or supercharge, also the cam package of dan, I've asked how to pay and I'll go for it, but no reply yet, this post is all about me expecting loads but getting nothing for wot I've already done,

 

[Rob669]

If you've got an RS2, J then you fully understand the cost needed to get better power. RS2 isn't cheap. I understand, I think what the OP is saying, the mods fitted do very little.

 

[Rob669]

Give him a call on his mobile.

Yes that's wot I was saying my advice is leave everything alone, go for bodies or supercharge, also the cam package of dan, I've asked how to pay and I'll go for it, but no reply yet, this post is all about me expecting loads but getting nothing for wot I've already done,

 

[clarkey*]

Give him a call on his mobile.

Dans mobile is?

 

[Rob669]

I thought I'd Post this so people can see easily how you can contact us:

Contact through any of these sources and I'll get back to you as soon as I have a free minute.

Pm me on here. (Anytime)

Phone: 07969 124504(Between 0800-2300)

Email: sjmautomotiveltd@gmail.com

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/SjmAutomotiveLtd

Website: www.sjmautomotive.co.uk (under construction)

 

[warwickstingray]

Maybe a tight one. Give it a good ragging over a season of track days. Some of these engines are pampered and have yet to loosen up. My Dad's 182 was like that. Was a much happier car when he sold it on. If you've already done this then start with a healthier lump. Engines for these are hardly megabucks and the odd freak engine makes good power without mods.

 

[Ph1 Tom]

If you're going to do cams then fit something better than 428s!

The ITB kit you're looking at is good value.

 

[Simon@SprayShack]

Personally , id leave the f*cker alone, the last thing you want to be doing is pissing money at a N/A engine chasing figures. Probably between 172bhp and 200bhp in real world terms that can be made up by a good driver. Dyno runs really are BS and cannot be compared like for like between machines, to many atmospheric and setup variations.

 

[Andyman]

Whats so special about 200 bhp ? lol BHP is s**t, its torque you want. If your chasing figures though the only way is forced induction.
Wouldn't even bother with throttle bodies. You'd only just, if your lucky, make 200 with them and then thats your lot unless you spend even more wedge then your in forced induction money. My opinion tho, i know TB's have a bit of a cult following.

 

[Chi]

Come have a blast in a few of mine and see what you prefer no sc but 197, 421, 438 cams itbs and few turbo cars

 

[mark123]

You need to be realistic about your expectations, most of the people who get good figures post them up the ones who don't are less likely to post so you are likely to get unrealistic expectations from searching. Boost is the way to go if you want figures. Bare in mind Paul's rollers are the lowest reading around, they read lower then SRR in my experience. I'd say realistic for a 1*2 after mapping is the following:
std - 165-175
428 cams - 175-185
421 - 180-190
RS2 - 180-190
Boddies - 190-200
Low pressure turbo/charger - 210-240

 

[warwickstingray]

Some people do prefer the way an N/A engine makes it power but you can't argue with how effective even a little boost is on a modern engine. I don't like turbo torque I prefer to have to find power in a fun car. For a daily I just prefer not to have anything that might get me into trouble. I like to pretend I have the restraint to drive something fast everyday but I'm just as much of a t**t as anyone else when it comes down to it.

 

[reedy107]

Ive always learnt over the years of building quick cars that bhp is just a figure to impress other car friends..its how the car goes on the road and what other cars you can beat with her.

 

[Lal B3N]

Does seem low, mine made 183bhp there but mine was a bit of freak.

Does it drive well though?

 

[Diagro]

I dunno is 164 is low.. Mines 162.9 according to dynodaze.

Mines stock apart from a pipercross air filter and a 98ron map.

Got a Bigger bore Stainless exhaust going on over next two days so im hoping for 167+

 

[clarkey*]

Yep I think you are all correct, forget bhp, and throttle bodies, concentrate on handling and driving, although with Pauls map I did gain just over 20lbf of torque, so that's quite a bit,so I'll see how it goes at Blyton on the 28th December, my wets are being fitted

 

[Diagro]

What Torque number did you get? Mines 144

 

[clarkey*]

Not sure how to read this graph it just p all said it gained lots of torque

 

[Diagro]

Looks like 155 Torque.

 

[TarkMalbot]

But there is throttle bodies and ecu on here for 1500 ish miles better deal if I had the money this side of xmas

There was....

 

[warwickstingray]

Power across the rev range you'll be using is the most important bit. Having a nice peak is far less useful than having a good solid figure over a couple of thousand rpm. How long do you spend in the taller gears trawling from 5000rpm-6500rpm compared to a spike at 6800 or so. I spent a good chunk of money farting around with twin Weber chokes on my XR2 and the ones that gave the best peak power were the worst on track due to the steep power curve. A size down that gave a good combination of grunt and power including noticeably more power up to the bigger chokes peak and suited my gearing were the ones I settled on. You tune an engine to your needs not to figures.

 

[Ph1 Tom]

I overlayed my results a while back. The engine has cams and headwork, 182 manifold, sports cat and twin silencer exhaust. Before had matched inlets and ITG filter, after with with a KTEC ITB kit and my custom angled trumpets.

 

[clarkey*]

Tom that looks bad, and made me think leave it alone, less torque, and only better hp after 6,000 rpm but less power in the mid, hmmmm sell up next summer and buy a megan 225 lol

 

[warwickstingray]

Ideal for a track car though. More power and torque from 5500rpm onwards and you can stay in a lower gear for longer. The standard car is pretty much out of steam at the point the ITB setup gets going. Being able to stay in 3rd for another 1000rpm and it be pulling hard makes a noticeable difference. Only in the odd low speed 2nd gear corner is the ITB setup gonna lose out. You can play with setups to change the curve depending on your needs. I miss the CRX VT I tracked for a while. No torque at all but it never felt lacking once it was happily nudging the limiter at 8200rpm despite less than ideal gearing. If a good solid shove is what your after then a turbo is the only way.

 

[Ph1 Tom]

Tom that looks bad, and made me think leave it alone, less torque, and only better hp after 6,000 rpm but less power in the mid, hmmmm sell up next summer and buy a megan 225 lol

Lol! It's faster where it needs to be. Overall area under the curve is greater with ITBs and that makes it faster. If you want power below the point where you use it on track why not just buy a diesel....