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Big Steve's RB Clio 182 Cup Restoration



  CLS, RS MEG
Thought I would have a go at this V-logging malarky whilst we have all have all the time in the world.. :p and thanks to Cliosport, I followed this guide on HOW TO REMOVE YOUR DOOR PANEL and removed the drivers door panel as the drivers door lock doesn't seem to be working.

View attachment 1460426
When I whipped the door panel off I found the solenoid was unplugged so figured that was the only issue and plugged it in, unfortunately there does seem to be more of an issue with the lock, so I whipped it out. Whilst I was messing around with the door, I figured now was the right time to replace the window seal for a new one I came across, that hasn't got any rust or distortion. Hope you enjoy the video! :cool:











I then fitted a set of new rear axle bolts inside the car whilst I had access to the inside:
View attachment 1460431
Then I spent a bit of time figuring out where the coolant hoses go!
View attachment 1460432
She's coming along nicely now!!

Thanks for reading/watching! :)
Great work Steve! I’m currently refurbishing my Arctic blue 182, but the efforts you have gone to make mine look poor! Haha
Keep up the good work, and can I ask, is that Goonzquad’s YouTube music playing in the timeframe videos? 🤣
 

Big_Steve_T

ClioSport Club Member
Buggering about with the door panel today:
00D25659-9406-4342-A2D2-3623C3B0E434.jpeg


From the factory there’s adhesive strip running round the bottom of the door panel, that’s always the first to disappear when the door panel is removed. You can see in the picture below, where some of it remains, and then some places it’s still present:
A645F398-DF59-4855-84AC-EFAE9E9ED417.jpeg

First job was to remove the remaining seal with a scraper:
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Then I got hold of a rolls of 8mm butyl tape which is the closest I could find to the original stuff:
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It was then just a case of applying it Inbetween the pre-determined “dots” that Renault put on the door panel to show you where it should go:
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I then mounted the panel onto the door and gave it a little clean.
Final job was to fit the new speaker into the door panel:
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and then finish it with the speaker grille:
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Thanks for reading :)
 

Mbeau

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172
I did this the other week as the Cup I purchased recently was leaking water into the interior from the bottom of the door card. Removed the old and fitted new. I had some tape left over from when I did the wifes seat Leon door cards years ago. I knew there was a reason I always keep stuff!!

I need to see this in the flesh once its finished. Looks amazing. Fantastic attention to detail 👍
 

Big_Steve_T

ClioSport Club Member
Been working on bringing the exhaust heat shields back to life from a mix of brand new, and used parts. The final count was 2 new and 2 old.
01D16112-E670-4AB1-B805-992622BDEE02.jpeg


Fair amount of work to bring the used ones back to life, as the old tin worm had given it a good nibble. But chuffed with the result.

Next job over the coming days, is to get the underbody of the car to match.
9B1717B1-2D43-42E1-AB73-378EEB9DD53D.jpeg


That’s going to be an equally grotty job...

Thanks for reading 🙂
 

Big_Steve_T

ClioSport Club Member
Been spending a crazy amount of time on my back under the Clio for the last 2 days... but I think the final results are worth it.

First step was to remove all of the underfloor fixtures & fittings - Brake/Fuel Lines, Clips etc.. I then had a good dig round under the car with a scraper to find as much grot & rot as I could. As you can see on the GIF below, the plastic clips under the body are responsible for a lot of the rust, as they hold onto the damp/dirt/debris that allows the rust to set in:
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After I'd scraped as much of the old under-seal and rust off the bottom of the car, I then treated the rust with my chosen FE-123 Rust converter which goes on like milk, but then converts the existing rust into a hard black coating:
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After that had dried, it was then covered with a coat of Zinc Primer:
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I let this all then dry over-night before moving onto the next step of under-seal with Dinitrol 4941:
IMG_2178.jpg

First step was to put the Dinitrol into a tub of warm water, to soften it up a little bit ready for spraying. Whilst the tin was warming, I then masked the car, to stop over-spray:
IMG_2179.jpg

I'm so pleased I bought myself an Aldi compressor for my garage, it's come into use SOOO many times!! Bought myself a Schultz gun for my R11 Turbo Restoration:
IMG_2180.jpg

Then it was on with the Under-Seal!
IMG_2185.jpg

Chuffed to bits with the finished results:
IMG_2202.jpg


Thanks for reading :)
 

Big_Steve_T

ClioSport Club Member
Now I'm becoming quite deft at spotting the small pieces of corrosion that turn into something bigger when you start to dig at them with a scraper, I'd seen a couple of small points in the front arches next to the brake line bracket that caught my eye:
IMG_2189.jpg

After a quick dig around, I soon uncovered this:
IMG_2190.jpg

And then after giving a few more points a scrape... this lot turned up!!
IMG_2197.jpg

So again it was a quick overcoat with FE123 Rust Converter:
IMG_2198.jpg

I'll give it a coat of Zinc Primer and then Dinitrol 4941 in coming days.

Thanks for reading :)
 
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Big_Steve_T

ClioSport Club Member
Now the underneath of the car is coming together, I started to have a look at some of the brake-lines I got for the car, and noticed that on one of the Front to Back lines the fitting had rusted away, which mean the 11mm spanner wouldn't grip it enough to tighten... So I whipped out the brake line kit, and made a new replication.
Original Pipe:
SAM_0663.jpg

New piece of pipe, cut to lengthL
SAM_0664.jpg

Then a good fight with the pipe and the benders... resulted in:
SAM_0665.jpg

That pipe is now laying in the garden, drying it's coat of Green paint - Can't have that Shiny Copper pipe showing under the car can I!? @YorkshireKyle wouldn't forgive me!! ;)

Thanks for reading :)
 
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MLB

ClioSport Club Member
Awesome read again, must be great to have a space to work and all those tools at hand!

Must be so satisfying to know its all pretty much corrosion free and sealed now!
 

Big_Steve_T

ClioSport Club Member
Beautiful underseal job Steve. How far did you go at the front of the car?
Where did you mask it to?

Thank you @frayz

I stopped at the jacking points. The previous owner had under sealed the front arches, but as you saw from one of my posts, there was some rust that wasn’t treated properly so was lurking underneath.

The front subframe is all clear of underseal.
 

Big_Steve_T

ClioSport Club Member
Perfect.
Did you find one tin of Dinitrol was enough to do the whole underside?

That 1L tin I had covered the main passenger compartment bit quite well and a couple of bits behind the fuel tank that I found as well. You’d need 2 to do the whole underfloor. I bought 2, so I’ve got enough to do the front arches as well now. 👍
 

Big_Steve_T

ClioSport Club Member
Bloody Renault's.... 😠

Was having a quick dig around the rear of the car for any rust I'd missed and found a couple of points that looked like they needed some attention. To help with access I removed the fuel filler neck and noticed that the area around the fuel filler door looked suspicious.. 😖
IMG_2224.jpg


Tried to undo the bolts... but very quickly I realised they were NEVER going to come undone.. So I knew I had to drill the heads off the bolts. At times like these, I really recommend you have a set of Cobalt drill bits to hand, they're bloody fantastic!!
IMG_2229.jpg

No surprise the bolts weren't going to become undone!
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With the fuel door removed, the extent of the corrosion showed itself:
IMG_2232.jpg

I removed the rest of the fuel filler neck assembly and had a quick scrape around:
IMG_2236.jpg

The final extent of the damage was this:
IMG_2237.jpg

More stuff to paint! 🙄

Thanks for reading :)
 

RustyMojo

Bon Jovi Officianado
ClioSport Club Member
Not many mate, I keep meaning to start a project thread. No time is a poor excuse at the moment. So I will start something over next few days. Attached what I took:
 

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RustyMojo

Bon Jovi Officianado
ClioSport Club Member
As you can see the back of the fuel filler was full of s**t. I have since cleaned the arch, repaired any localised surface rust and covered in stone chip. Will be under sealing at some point as well. I didn’t take a picture of the paint removed. But basically mine had gone (you can just see) around the bottom of the filler cup as well. Once I started taking the paint off to get to bare metal I basically had to clean up around the whole opening. I used a drill with sanding wheel to get back to proper sound metal and then treated, primed and overcoated both sides.
 

Big_Steve_T

ClioSport Club Member
As you can see the back of the fuel filler was full of s**t. I have since cleaned the arch, repaired any localised surface rust and covered in stone chip. Will be under sealing at some point as well. I didn’t take a picture of the paint removed. But basically mine had gone (you can just see) around the bottom of the filler cup as well. Once I started taking the paint off to get to bare metal I basically had to clean up around the whole opening. I used a drill with sanding wheel to get back to proper sound metal and then treated, primed and overcoated both sides.

Great work sir!! Was it just a quick rattle can job for the paintwork, or did you get it done professionally??
 

RustyMojo

Bon Jovi Officianado
ClioSport Club Member
Great work sir!! Was it just a quick rattle can job for the paintwork, or did you get it done professionally??

Rattle can, it’s relatively easy to get an edge with the fuel filler. So just ordered the correct paint online. Silver a b**ch to match but given it’s largely hidden by the filler next and flap mechanism I’m well happy with the result. My car is also nothing like as nice as others on here. I have bodyshops at work I can get staff rates on (we actually run Renault U.K. and RCI defleet as well as Renault Import centre) but it’s a hassle getting the car there. I’m going to get my front bumper painted there though. Balls to rattle canning silver on anything other than discreet panel work
 

D4w5on

ClioSport Club Member
  clio 172
This was mine on my old 172 which I did many years ago . Need to carry out the same on the 182
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

frayz

ClioSport Club Member
I had mine done and bought a brand new fuel door for the hinge. As like you found the hardware needs cutting off in most cases.

The rear needs underselling I think to properly protect it in future.
Another job I did was add some PPF where the rear bumper meets the rear arch as this gets grit caught and abrades the paint back to bare metal and allows moisture in.
if you PPF it now it should never happen again. 🙂

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RustyMojo

Bon Jovi Officianado
ClioSport Club Member
I actually removed the captive ‘element’ of the bolts that hold the flap on. Following them down then painting. I will be replacing the standard bolts with some stainless variants in the future. I think the fact the metal is quite a light gauge and isn’t shaped or strengthened for the flap attachment cutouts causes part of the issue. The hinge stiffens up (I greased mine now) so I think the metal flexes when opening slightly as such the paint/protection starts to fail. Not to mention the bits Frayz mentioned....


Still it was one of the more satisfying jobs I have done so far
 

Big_Steve_T

ClioSport Club Member
Made a start on the fuel filler neck today. The rust-converter seemed to have done it's job overnight:
IMG_2239.jpg

So I gave it a little rub down with my mini sander:
IMG_2240.jpg

Masked it up:
IMG_2243.jpg

And then hit it with a couple of light coats of Zinc Primer:
IMG_2245.jpg

More work to come when that all dries up properly.

Started work on the passenger door as-well. The window seal was all rusted and bent in several areas:
IMG_2247.jpg

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So It got replaced:
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Thanks for reading :)
 


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